EMC rotors already warped...
EMC rotors already warped...
I got the EMC rotors from the GB, and i put them on over a week ago, and about 2 days later the vibration was totally gone. Today as i was driving home from school it was vibrating as i was applying some brake at around 70mph.........it continuously did it..............suxxxxxxxxxx.............
how many miles did you put on the pads and rotors? i think you need to bed them for at least 500 miles.
so far this is the second issue with aftermarket rotors.
maybe there is more to it then just rotors and brake pads like other mechanical parts that could be the main problem...
sidemarker
so far this is the second issue with aftermarket rotors.
maybe there is more to it then just rotors and brake pads like other mechanical parts that could be the main problem...
sidemarker
Originally posted by peiqinglong
I'm also starting to notice some vibrations now on my EMC rotors...very interesting...
I'm also starting to notice some vibrations now on my EMC rotors...very interesting...

It has been occurring for the last week, or so, but it became frighteningly shaky this afternoon. I could have had this secure feeling with shitty stock rotors and pads, for cryin' out loud!
Hey, guys. I just recently upgraded my stock brakes on my Z to 13.1", 4-Piston StopTechs. I couldn't find a shop that wouldn't charge an arm and a leg for the install, so I ended up doing the entire thing myself. In the past couple of months I've learned a LOT about brakes and maybe I can help...
Are these rotors you've purchase the "gold" Zinc coated rotors and are they the stock 11.7" size? Warped rotors are a bit of a myth as many times what has actually happened is that there is an uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors. For brakes to be most effective, there has to be a continual transfer, or trade of pad material between the pads and the rotor. When pad material is unevenly transferred to the rotor, raised areas will occur and "grab" at the pad causing it to skip as the rotor is passing through the caliper during braking. You can imagine what this feels like because you've already experienced the shudder and vibration under braking.
This document from the StopTech site will go into even more detail than you probably want to know.
The reason I asked about the Zinc coated rotors is because that gold material surface HAS TO BE worn off before the brakes will function at their full potential. IF you don't do a proper bed-in of new pads, this can take as long as 1,000 miles of normal street driving to accomplish. This should have been explained to you in the rotor documentation.
I went through the same shit with my CL-S, and at the time did not properly understand braking dynamics at all. Besides that, the CL-S is under-braked to begin with for anything beyond normal commuter braking, but you already knew that. The stock pads probably only have an operating temp range of ambient to around 500 degrees. Three or four heavy stops on the stock brakes that get no cooling whatsoever, and your easily exceeding those temps.
Are these rotors you've purchase the "gold" Zinc coated rotors and are they the stock 11.7" size? Warped rotors are a bit of a myth as many times what has actually happened is that there is an uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors. For brakes to be most effective, there has to be a continual transfer, or trade of pad material between the pads and the rotor. When pad material is unevenly transferred to the rotor, raised areas will occur and "grab" at the pad causing it to skip as the rotor is passing through the caliper during braking. You can imagine what this feels like because you've already experienced the shudder and vibration under braking.
This document from the StopTech site will go into even more detail than you probably want to know.

The reason I asked about the Zinc coated rotors is because that gold material surface HAS TO BE worn off before the brakes will function at their full potential. IF you don't do a proper bed-in of new pads, this can take as long as 1,000 miles of normal street driving to accomplish. This should have been explained to you in the rotor documentation.
I went through the same shit with my CL-S, and at the time did not properly understand braking dynamics at all. Besides that, the CL-S is under-braked to begin with for anything beyond normal commuter braking, but you already knew that. The stock pads probably only have an operating temp range of ambient to around 500 degrees. Three or four heavy stops on the stock brakes that get no cooling whatsoever, and your easily exceeding those temps.
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I spoke with Woddy at Race Concept and asked him about the issue with the rotors. He said he hadn't had a lot of people contact him about it. He stands behind the EMC product and claims that they aren't warped from the factory and aren't prone to it. He claims that it is probably due to the fact that some people are using hand tools to install (not air guns) and aren't tightening them evenly. Another theory is that the pads just need time to seat properly. Either way they offer a 30 day warranty, so keep your stock rotors and return them if the vibration does not go away after a few hundred miles. Thoughts rebuttals? Anyone have success with these rotors? I haven't installed them yet. Think I might send them back.
Originally posted by 2Sxy4YoMama
Cancelled my order from Woody and bought a new set from a GB I tried to start a while back.
Cancelled my order from Woody and bought a new set from a GB I tried to start a while back.
Originally posted by h2o467
Not sure what I am going to do yet. I'll probably send them back. I don't want to deal with the headache. BTW, what rotors and pads did you end up buying?
Not sure what I am going to do yet. I'll probably send them back. I don't want to deal with the headache. BTW, what rotors and pads did you end up buying?
Originally posted by 2Sxy4YoMama
I got Brembo Rotors for the front and rear with Axxis Pads that I order a while back.
I got Brembo Rotors for the front and rear with Axxis Pads that I order a while back.
aren't you supposed to refinish (i.e., skim with a car-mount lathe) the new rotors while they're mounted on the car before you use them?
even the documentation for the brake tsb mentions that the new rotors get refinished on the car before use.
maybe that's the problem?
even the documentation for the brake tsb mentions that the new rotors get refinished on the car before use.
maybe that's the problem?
I have a question about the SS lines...
I received my front rotor from Woody yesterday, but I'm thinking that I want to hold off on installing the rotors and pads until my stocks really needs to be replaced. But I still would like to install the SS lines.
My question is, labor cost... is changing the lines involved in taking off the rotor anyway? meaning if I don't replace the rotors when I do the lines, am I basically wasting money on labor cost since I want to do the lines now, and the rotors and pads later?
Thanks.
I received my front rotor from Woody yesterday, but I'm thinking that I want to hold off on installing the rotors and pads until my stocks really needs to be replaced. But I still would like to install the SS lines.
My question is, labor cost... is changing the lines involved in taking off the rotor anyway? meaning if I don't replace the rotors when I do the lines, am I basically wasting money on labor cost since I want to do the lines now, and the rotors and pads later?
Thanks.
Originally posted by tankmonkey
aren't you supposed to refinish (i.e., skim with a car-mount lathe) the new rotors while they're mounted on the car before you use them?
even the documentation for the brake tsb mentions that the new rotors get refinished on the car before use.
maybe that's the problem?
aren't you supposed to refinish (i.e., skim with a car-mount lathe) the new rotors while they're mounted on the car before you use them?
even the documentation for the brake tsb mentions that the new rotors get refinished on the car before use.
maybe that's the problem?
Originally posted by CLS2001_97124
I have a question about the SS lines...
I received my front rotor from Woody yesterday, but I'm thinking that I want to hold off on installing the rotors and pads until my stocks really needs to be replaced. But I still would like to install the SS lines.
My question is, labor cost... is changing the lines involved in taking off the rotor anyway? meaning if I don't replace the rotors when I do the lines, am I basically wasting money on labor cost since I want to do the lines now, and the rotors and pads later?
Thanks.
I have a question about the SS lines...
I received my front rotor from Woody yesterday, but I'm thinking that I want to hold off on installing the rotors and pads until my stocks really needs to be replaced. But I still would like to install the SS lines.
My question is, labor cost... is changing the lines involved in taking off the rotor anyway? meaning if I don't replace the rotors when I do the lines, am I basically wasting money on labor cost since I want to do the lines now, and the rotors and pads later?
Thanks.
Originally posted by CLS2001_97124
Thanks, I will go ahead and install the lines first then...
Thanks, I will go ahead and install the lines first then...
you might want to check your area for mobile brake repair/replace mechanic. I know a guy in SA who will come to your house to do the brakes. he charges 40 bucks a wheel and that includes rotors/pads/lines
sidemarker
wow, really??? that's seems to be reasonable... the dealer quoted me $360 to do everything. So what you are saying is that if I do everything all at once, I ultimately will save money on labor?
Originally posted by h2o467
I spoke with Woddy at Race Concept and asked him about the issue with the rotors. He said he hadn't had a lot of people contact him about it. He stands behind the EMC product and claims that they aren't warped from the factory and aren't prone to it. He claims that it is probably due to the fact that some people are using hand tools to install (not air guns) and aren't tightening them evenly. Another theory is that the pads just need time to seat properly. Either way they offer a 30 day warranty, so keep your stock rotors and return them if the vibration does not go away after a few hundred miles. Thoughts rebuttals? Anyone have success with these rotors? I haven't installed them yet. Think I might send them back.
I spoke with Woddy at Race Concept and asked him about the issue with the rotors. He said he hadn't had a lot of people contact him about it. He stands behind the EMC product and claims that they aren't warped from the factory and aren't prone to it. He claims that it is probably due to the fact that some people are using hand tools to install (not air guns) and aren't tightening them evenly. Another theory is that the pads just need time to seat properly. Either way they offer a 30 day warranty, so keep your stock rotors and return them if the vibration does not go away after a few hundred miles. Thoughts rebuttals? Anyone have success with these rotors? I haven't installed them yet. Think I might send them back.
I installed mine yesterday, they are squeaking and vibrating and making all sorts of noises,
I have SP performance rear sross drilled & slotted
And everything available from GB, I bought the lines but haven't installed em yet
Let me know how long this shit lasts, its embarassing sqwueeeek!!!!, Squeeeekk
I have SP performance rear sross drilled & slotted
And everything available from GB, I bought the lines but haven't installed em yet
Let me know how long this shit lasts, its embarassing sqwueeeek!!!!, Squeeeekk
Originally posted by Ant7701
I spoke to Woody also like on Monday...I told him about the continous pulsation on the rotors and he told me to drive around for another week and if the pulsation is still there then he will take care of it...I gotta call him again next week....I'm gonna ask him if I could just get my money back and if not I'll just get another set of rotors. I made a post on this regarding to my rotors last week. When I did, two particular members started attacking w/ fucked up comments on how I'm a fucking idiot and everything cause my rotors were fucked up......I wonder what they think about the rest of "us" fucking idiots w/ messed up rotors.
I spoke to Woody also like on Monday...I told him about the continous pulsation on the rotors and he told me to drive around for another week and if the pulsation is still there then he will take care of it...I gotta call him again next week....I'm gonna ask him if I could just get my money back and if not I'll just get another set of rotors. I made a post on this regarding to my rotors last week. When I did, two particular members started attacking w/ fucked up comments on how I'm a fucking idiot and everything cause my rotors were fucked up......I wonder what they think about the rest of "us" fucking idiots w/ messed up rotors.
I read that post actually. Not sure what their problem was. Obviously there is a problem with these rotors. Maybe they needed to convince themselves otherwise so they wouldn't be in the same boat as the rest of us "shmucks" who bought em. It happens. Live and learn. Call Woody and tell him you want your money back. I'm not trying to instigate anything, but there is something with certain equiptment involved in this GB.
Woody should have known the equipment he sold us. Or maybe he does. Not trying to instigate anything.
Just to let you know....aftermarket rotors and pads are going to squeak, pulsate, and jitter a bit until everything is seated properly. I have EBC Greenstuff and Mr. Wood's Brembo's (dimpled \ slotted) and it took between 500-750 miles for everything to settle in. I know this is on a Legend, but its a heavier car that puts even more load on the brakes. Good luck.
Originally posted by LegendC
Just to let you know....aftermarket rotors and pads are going to squeak, pulsate, and jitter a bit until everything is seated properly. I have EBC Greenstuff and Mr. Wood's Brembo's (dimpled \ slotted) and it took between 500-750 miles for everything to settle in. I know this is on a Legend, but its a heavier car that puts even more load on the brakes. Good luck.
Just to let you know....aftermarket rotors and pads are going to squeak, pulsate, and jitter a bit until everything is seated properly. I have EBC Greenstuff and Mr. Wood's Brembo's (dimpled \ slotted) and it took between 500-750 miles for everything to settle in. I know this is on a Legend, but its a heavier car that puts even more load on the brakes. Good luck.
Originally posted by Ant7701
h2o467...thanks for the pm...I hope this works better....
h2o467...thanks for the pm...I hope this works better....
i have no problems.
all aftermarket brakes are gonna make some noises... and as droid said... zinc'd rotors can cause some build up... get them cleaned up or set them right. let them do their own thing over couple hundred miles...
but mine are ok.
all aftermarket brakes are gonna make some noises... and as droid said... zinc'd rotors can cause some build up... get them cleaned up or set them right. let them do their own thing over couple hundred miles...
but mine are ok.
My rotors were installed right, by me and my friend and we used air tools. When i first put them on, the car shook real bad, but i was expecting that.........i drove real slow for about a total of 30minutes with the brake pedal lightly pressed and for the first 400-500 miles i took it real easy. Over the last 2 days it seems to be getting worse, i notice it especially at 60mph when i have to apply any amount of braking. I will give it another week, but i really doubt it will go away.


