Doing brake job; have some questions... please help
#1
THƎSƎ HOPƎFUL MACHINƎS
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Snoqualmie Ridge, WA
Age: 44
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Doing brake job; have some questions... please help
AZ 2G CL gurus,
I am currently in the midst of a brake job on my 2001 CL A/T.
Included in the job are new rotors (Rotora/Stoptech), new pads (Stoptech), new SS lines (Goodridge), and a fluid flush (Motul 600). New calipers are a possibility, but we'll get to that.
The questions I have come up with so far are as follows:
First of all, How do I get the rubber brake hose detached from the steel line that enters the wheel well? I've removed the retaining clip and then wrenched at what looks like the connector with a 10mm wrench, but to no avail. It's possible it's just stuck, but I've sprayed it down with LW Penetrating Oil and it won't budge at all. Is there a secret to this?
Secondly, I need to understand just how easy it should be to move the caliper pistons in and out. I know that it should be able to release freely so as not to drag the brakes all the time, but I'm really unsure on just HOW easy it should be to move that piston in and out. I tried gently pushing it into the caliper body, and it was very tight. I ended up using the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push it back in. Is it normal/okay for the piston to be this tight, and will it return to the expected position if it's that tight? I need to know whether or not I should just purchase new calipers.
Finally, I need to know the procedure for adjusting the parking brake system. As I understand it, there are brake shoes INSIDE the rear rotor for the parking brake system (again, this is an A/T car, with a pedal e-brake), but I have no idea where adjustments can be made, and I cannot find any images or excerpts from the service manual after hours of searching the site.
Sorry this is so long-winded, but if someone could answer my questions, I'd be extremely grateful.
Cheers,
jsilas
I am currently in the midst of a brake job on my 2001 CL A/T.
Included in the job are new rotors (Rotora/Stoptech), new pads (Stoptech), new SS lines (Goodridge), and a fluid flush (Motul 600). New calipers are a possibility, but we'll get to that.
The questions I have come up with so far are as follows:
First of all, How do I get the rubber brake hose detached from the steel line that enters the wheel well? I've removed the retaining clip and then wrenched at what looks like the connector with a 10mm wrench, but to no avail. It's possible it's just stuck, but I've sprayed it down with LW Penetrating Oil and it won't budge at all. Is there a secret to this?
Secondly, I need to understand just how easy it should be to move the caliper pistons in and out. I know that it should be able to release freely so as not to drag the brakes all the time, but I'm really unsure on just HOW easy it should be to move that piston in and out. I tried gently pushing it into the caliper body, and it was very tight. I ended up using the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push it back in. Is it normal/okay for the piston to be this tight, and will it return to the expected position if it's that tight? I need to know whether or not I should just purchase new calipers.
Finally, I need to know the procedure for adjusting the parking brake system. As I understand it, there are brake shoes INSIDE the rear rotor for the parking brake system (again, this is an A/T car, with a pedal e-brake), but I have no idea where adjustments can be made, and I cannot find any images or excerpts from the service manual after hours of searching the site.
Sorry this is so long-winded, but if someone could answer my questions, I'd be extremely grateful.
Cheers,
jsilas
#2
THƎSƎ HOPƎFUL MACHINƎS
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Snoqualmie Ridge, WA
Age: 44
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As a side note, if anyone has the brake section of the service manual available in .pdf or something, I'd be vastly appreciative if you could send that along. I searched for ages and couldn't find the manual in soft form.
#3
Originally Posted by jsilas
AZ 2G CL gurus,
I am currently in the midst of a brake job on my 2001 CL A/T.
Included in the job are new rotors (Rotora/Stoptech), new pads (Stoptech), new SS lines (Goodridge), and a fluid flush (Motul 600). New calipers are a possibility, but we'll get to that.
The questions I have come up with so far are as follows:
First of all, How do I get the rubber brake hose detached from the steel line that enters the wheel well? I've removed the retaining clip and then wrenched at what looks like the connector with a 10mm wrench, but to no avail. It's possible it's just stuck, but I've sprayed it down with LW Penetrating Oil and it won't budge at all. Is there a secret to this?
Secondly, I need to understand just how easy it should be to move the caliper pistons in and out. I know that it should be able to release freely so as not to drag the brakes all the time, but I'm really unsure on just HOW easy it should be to move that piston in and out. I tried gently pushing it into the caliper body, and it was very tight. I ended up using the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push it back in. Is it normal/okay for the piston to be this tight, and will it return to the expected position if it's that tight? I need to know whether or not I should just purchase new calipers.
Finally, I need to know the procedure for adjusting the parking brake system. As I understand it, there are brake shoes INSIDE the rear rotor for the parking brake system (again, this is an A/T car, with a pedal e-brake), but I have no idea where adjustments can be made, and I cannot find any images or excerpts from the service manual after hours of searching the site.
Sorry this is so long-winded, but if someone could answer my questions, I'd be extremely grateful.
Cheers,
jsilas
I am currently in the midst of a brake job on my 2001 CL A/T.
Included in the job are new rotors (Rotora/Stoptech), new pads (Stoptech), new SS lines (Goodridge), and a fluid flush (Motul 600). New calipers are a possibility, but we'll get to that.
The questions I have come up with so far are as follows:
First of all, How do I get the rubber brake hose detached from the steel line that enters the wheel well? I've removed the retaining clip and then wrenched at what looks like the connector with a 10mm wrench, but to no avail. It's possible it's just stuck, but I've sprayed it down with LW Penetrating Oil and it won't budge at all. Is there a secret to this?
Secondly, I need to understand just how easy it should be to move the caliper pistons in and out. I know that it should be able to release freely so as not to drag the brakes all the time, but I'm really unsure on just HOW easy it should be to move that piston in and out. I tried gently pushing it into the caliper body, and it was very tight. I ended up using the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push it back in. Is it normal/okay for the piston to be this tight, and will it return to the expected position if it's that tight? I need to know whether or not I should just purchase new calipers.
Finally, I need to know the procedure for adjusting the parking brake system. As I understand it, there are brake shoes INSIDE the rear rotor for the parking brake system (again, this is an A/T car, with a pedal e-brake), but I have no idea where adjustments can be made, and I cannot find any images or excerpts from the service manual after hours of searching the site.
Sorry this is so long-winded, but if someone could answer my questions, I'd be extremely grateful.
Cheers,
jsilas
#4
THƎSƎ HOPƎFUL MACHINƎS
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Snoqualmie Ridge, WA
Age: 44
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slasher
calipers will compress much easier with the brake fluid resovoir cap removed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GWEEDOspeedo
Car Parts for Sale
4
01-15-2016 10:39 PM