jproy

yeah... emissions, right? It took everything in me not to go postal when this guy started talking. I didnt say a word. just thanks and drove off. however, I fully intend to take the old IMRC and the new one and give an acura tech a lesson on how to work on acuras. cant wait. I go to Baton Rouge on business often so it will be easy. As shitty as is it is, this is the closest dealer to me. Or i could drive two hours to go to New Orleans and I dont even know if the dealer there is open yet (hurricane Katrina). Acura wont put a dealership in Lafayette, LA because they think they cant move 400 units a year. WTF? mercedes, BMW, and just about everyone else does here. there are almost 200,000 in lafayette and it is expected to continue grow at a rediculous rate. OK, I am a little pissed, sorry if i got a little worked up there.

jproy

can someone please find an electrical scematic for the IMRC from the pcm? what is the signal like that controls the IMRC. I have read something about ground logic for the digital system that controls it.
HELP PLEASE!

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

why do you need it? still not working?

jproy

no, i dont have the new part yet. it is in the mail. As a crazy physics guru, I want to understand why I cant get a definable reading from my meter off the IMRC plug.

typeR

as a not even close to physics guru could the ECU be looking for a response from the IMRC? like a ground or soemthing as if to say it's not already open?

jproy

I am beggining to think that is possible. I think I am getting something at about 4000rpm. the needle on the voltmeter set at a max of 10 volts or set at a max of 50 volts DC makes the needle move a thousanth of an inch about 3-5 times a second no matter which way I attach the wires to the IMRC plug after passing 4000rpm and continues to do so after the engine rpm falls back below 4000rpm to idle. any ideas

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

i would think that we need an eletrical guru, im not an EE major, but i am in computer technology... are you testing it while reving to 4,000 rpms? silly question but still. also, try just grounding one end of ur meter to the chassis/frame. and test each pin individually, it's only a 2 pin plug.

i personally have never tested the IMRC plug, but my guess is you will see 1 of 2 things:

1) jump to 10-12v
2) constant 10-12v and then a drop in voltage.

the latter is unlikely, but you never know.

edit: sounds like your not using a digital meter, we're talking fractions here, it's possible it only will jump 4-6v which may seem insignificant on traditional meters. but try grounding to the chassis.

squarecircle

Greetings jproy,

1. Calm down now and don't blow a fuse over this minor problema.

2. Install your new part when it arrives.

3. Order new "how to do-it-yourself books" from Helm publications.

4. Use this toll free number ---- 1-800 782-4356. ONLY $134.00.

5. Enjoy your new found knowledge gained from new book.

Kindest Regards, sq.

jproy

I am testing while reving to 5000. I could try grounding one end of the meter but I dont think that will help since the unit is mounted on rubber isolators and there is no good ground through the unit. I could be wrong. My new IMRC comes in on thurs. and I will install it and see what happens. Im not freaking out about this I just want to understand the system. I really wont lose any sleep over this unless the new IMRC doesnt work. I am using a analog meter as opposed to a digital meter, so you could be right about not being able to see the signal. I had thought about that but not to much. even if it does work on thurs., I will still want to understand how it is controled. what signal is sent where and how? Maybe i will get teh HELMS manual.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

well when you hit the certain RPMs, i think its 4,000, the ecu sends a signal to the IMRC control unit, the control unit sends t he signal to the actuator and it opens. its RPM based, but i think you knew that, not sure how much more involvd it gets besides that.

jproy

Thanks for the FYI but I what to know how the signal is being electronically sent. I would like to se a schematic of the electronic system for the IMRC as well.

typeR

3800

SleekCLS

does anyone know HOW to replace the actuator themselves? because iono if mine works and im gunna check and if it needs to be replaced. its a huge thing huh?

jproy

CLSDefiant, You should read an entire thread before you post in it. YOU will get flamed for this. Anyway, If you had read the whole thread like everyone else, you would have seen the photos of the IMRC and how to check it and if so you would know by looking at your own that there are only two bolts holding it on the back of the rear head and a cable that you must disconnect. it takes ten minutes.

609CLTYPES

wasnt clsdefiant 16 yesterday

SleekCLS

NO, sorry guys, i apologize im always in a hurry, im working like 4 jobs and whatever chancce i get inbetween i post, and im 18....

BTW my actuator is working, but is it just me or when the car is in park it doesnt let you revv above like 5700 rpm cuz of that rev limiter or is it just cuz the actuator opens.

ONCE AGAIN I DO APOLOGIZE, i just wont bother posting next time...

SleekCLS

NO, sorry guys, i apologize im always in a hurry, im working like 4 jobs and whatever chancce i get inbetween i post, and im 18....

BTW my actuator is working, but is it just me or when the car is in park it doesnt let you revv above like 5700 rpm cuz of that rev limiter or is it just cuz the actuator opens. PS my actuator even though its a type S opens at like around 5500 or its just my imagination cuz i wasnt looking at the RPM guage when it opened or is it that its limited revvs to 5500?

ONCE AGAIN I DO APOLOGIZE, i just wont bother posting next time...

SleekCLS

18.

jproy

CLSDefiant, this is a thread about the IMRC or Actuator Bypass Valve. U R in a hurry? if you dont know what it is, do a search BEFORE YOU POST. there are a million threads about what it is and how to change it. it takes ten minutes to change. I dont care how old you are. if you dont have something to say that is relevant to this thread chill. these threads are referenced by other new people long after you and I talk to see what is happening to there car and you are crapping up this thread. the current topic is how the signal is sent to the IMRC. I will be happy to help you just pm me and I will tell you whatever you want to know if you need help. SEARCH, then ask quesitons, then post.

SleekCLS

for your infor jproy, if u didnt see i posted something and maybe YOU didnt read it, i dont need 70 people telling one thing, i only need one. so incase you didnt notice and i dont mean to be rude, people got their point to me.... so you chill.

but anyways, i was sitting in park or neutral and i was revving and my car got to id say 5500 and then it wouldnt go any higher but when im in drive it easily goes to 7 whats up with that? is that normal?

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Yes it's normal. It's to prevent idiots from destroying their engines showing off in a parking lot.

SleekCLS

haha i figured.

609CLTYPES

[QUOTE=CLSDefiant]for your infor jproy, if u didnt see i posted something and maybe YOU didnt read it, i dont need 70 people telling one thing, i only need one. so incase you didnt notice and i dont mean to be rude, people got their point to me.... so you chill.QUOTE]
a person can only take soo much of shyt talking, this is defiant-->

SleekCLS

[QUOTE=609CLTYPES]well yea, but anyways, i have seen that my actuator works and i just resetted the ECU by disconnecting the battery and the check engine light went away. :-D my acutator works!

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

so what exactly is it controlled by? the ecu?

i did the test and it didn't open

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Theres a control box on the driver side near the fuse box IIRC. That controls the opening, but the ECU sends the signal to the box.

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

thats why its not working lol.. i wonder if the other P to S swappers know about this

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Use an RPM activated switch. I forget the title of the thread but there was one on here regarding it.

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

I might just keep it open all the time like phee is doing

I'll look into the rpm switch though, I'm pretty sure jjashaa was using it for his manifold swap

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea. The RPM switch should be simple to wire in, and theres only two wires going to the IMRCs.

Nersh7

Just to make sure, the part that needs replacing is "1" in this picture right??

for future reference here is the part number for that
17151-pfw-j02

PKIM

I never checked this... I have about 103k now... I def should. For the past few months I still get this noise around 4100. A squeak kind of sound when the RPM's come down... I wonder if this is related to my problem. How much is this to replace? Is it simple enough to do yourself? or do you need to take it in to replace?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Its easy to replace. Its bolted to the rear valve cover with two 10mm bolts, and the cable is bolted to the manifold with 1 10mm bolt.

I forget the exact RPM that it opens, but I dont think its in the 4k range. With the car parked, rev it up - somewhere in the 3k rpm range you should see the pulley on the side of the manifold flip open.

PKIM

Just checked it. It opens but around 4100 when the RPM's come down there is a sound that comes from that part. Is something broken internally? That is exactly where the sound is coming from. Should I replace it? Any idea of the cost?

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

It activates at 3800 RPM

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

IIRC the motor is around $80 with discount. I wouldnt replace it though. If it aint broke, dont fix it

PKIM

its just that NOISE that bothers me... every time at 4100 "kssk" so if its cheap it worth replacing so I don't have to listen to that DAMN NOISE NO MORE!!!!!! AAAAHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! took me this long to figure out what was making the noise.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Are you 100% its coming from that and not the rear head itself??

PANAMARED

Hello everybody, have been trying to see the pictures and open the video link posted previously on this thread but it has been impossible... have searched arround to try and find somewhere else but with no luck. Would really appreciate if someone can post image or link where I can see actuator (video better). Do I have to take apart any cover? air filter? to see actuator... (mine is a '01 CL-S 5AT)... thanks in advance.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Remove the top plastic cover over the intake manifold. Look at the left of the manifold, you should see a cable. Follow that around to the rear of the motor. Thats the actuator.