After having a code for a missfire, I decided to change the plugs on my car. It took a bit of time, since I had to remove the supercharger. I thought I would also have to remove the Intercooler to get to the back plugz, but there is enough room to manuever around it . The Plugs, IK22's cost around $90 with shipping.

The old plugs were a brownish flourescent dull red color . One of the plugs was abit looser than the others, maybe I was loosing some power? Total time took 1.5 hours, what a pain! Oh we'll, these new plugs should be good for awhile .

 

cool.. I take it YOU installed the colder plugs when you did the S/C install?

or

Did you have the work done elsewhere?

 

Were you running stock plugs prior to installing this set? Or did the colder plugs that come with the kit die on you.

 

I did the initial install with the colder IK22's, I guess they died on me? One plug was loose, but not sure if that would cause the missfire. I also noticed that there was some visible carbon tracking from the electrode back up onto the insulator, wich might cause a missfire due to the bypassing of voltage that should have jumped the "gap" to make the actual spark.

 

How many miles did you have on the plugs?

 

I had about 25k miles on them. They lived a short but very exciting life.

 

only 25k

 

I plan on resurecting them for use in my wifes Camry . The TL-S ran fine, it just had missfire codes when the rpm went up past 6500 rpm. Hopefully the car will be running perfect now.

 

After a couple of days of driving, the miss fire code has not reappeared. I guess the new plugs made the difference. Also, when I'm at or near redline the power comes on in a more consistant manner.

 

A loose plug can certainly cause a misfire code, just FYI.

And I feel for you on the plug swap, it ain't fun.

 

fun

I've also got IK22 for $60 shipped (ebay), will see how long they last

 

I used the RSX type S factory Iridium plug

 

Damn good buy at $60 . BTW, the s\c is pretty easy to install accept for those 2 allen bolt by the back of the cylinder head. I guess I'm goona break down and buy a 5mm 3/8" drive long ball hex. That aught to take care of that problem. I wonder what Snap On wants for the tool, $30?

 

I wonder if I need to change my plugs. A while back I had a couple misfires in Cyl 4 and threw codes. Also, as it gets colder my car really has trouble starting after it sits for 4+ hours. I usually have to crank it for 5 or more seconds just to get it to start. Even then, it kinda sounds like it's choking for 10-15 seconds. After that the car runs fine. BTW, is it normal to have a large puff of dark exhaust smoke come out when suddenly going WOT?? I feel I'm having fuel issues - too rich?


I don't wanna pay to have someone replace my plugs but I've never removed the S/C and don't want to mess anything up. On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is it and do I need an impact wrench? I already have a torque-wrench and sockets galore.

 

Could denso plugs lead cause the ecu to run less lean than usual???????


also....what size for the CLS?? Denso site says ik16 but autocarparts.com says ik20

 

Seatle CL-S, no need for an impact wrench on the S/C, but having the tool I metioned above will help. One tip, unbolt the s/c'er from the mount plate attatched to the head. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal during the process, just so you don't short anything out .

I'd give the job a difficulty rating of about 4, especially if you don't turn a wrench that often.

 

Ball head allen is the way to go.

When I was at Comptech, they actually removed the mounting plate and SC as a unit. They haven't modified the install instructions to document but that's the alternate way of removing/installing the SC. Doing it that way, you don't need to mess with the allen bolts.

 

Tom,

It's not that difficult to remove the SC. If you remove with the mounting plate, you don't run the risk of breaking the seal on the jack shaft. I would think it's within your abilities to do easily. Just take your time. If you run into any problems, you can get answers here or call one of us and we'll walk you through it. Once you do it once, you'll be comfortable with this process.

 

And to think I did it the hard way all those time.

 

 

Be careful if you remove the plate from the cylinder head of the engine. That little o-ring is a pain to properly set into place. The o-ring does not fit snug about it's inside diamete (ID), which all other 99% of o-rings I've worked with do; however, the o-ring does fit snug about its outside diameter (OD).

In other words, it's easily pinched or cut.

 

thanks But any issues going with the ik22s over the OEM ik16? Even the Denso website says ik16

 

The normally aspirated 6MT uses IK20's FYI. I have installed them a couple of times.

 

lol really? 4 sources 4 different answers. k thanks I remember in my old 5AT it used bosch plugs and was pleasently suprised they went with the densos in this car.

 

huh, huh, huh...you said 'jack shaft'...huh, huh, huh

thanks for the info. i'll probably tackle this project over the holidays and see if the plugs are fouled.

 

The IK22's are a colder and smaller gap plug only for use with forced unduction on this car. The IK20's ARE the factory replacement plug for the 6MT. I had to do the research back in the fall of 2002 on the correct replacement when I experienced random misfires on the stock NGK plugs.

When I pulled the stock plugs and found they were NGK Iridiums I cross them over to the IK20's. Another source later confirmed that the IK20's were the correct stock replacement for the 6MT.

The 5AT run different plugs stock but could also run the IK20's.

 

I know, you were probably thinking that it was some sort of sex toy but sorry to disappoint you. Jack shaft is the aluminum housed shaft coming off of the SC body with the pulley at the end.

 

I have to agree with Allout, you don't want to break the seal on the jackshaft. Do also be carefull with the camshaft seal, it can be a bitch.