Well the Rotora Slotted rotors had 60k+ miles on them and it was time for a replacement. They had begun to wear down; actually they were worn down to shit.

I almost bought another set of Rotoras but I decided to try something a little different and something that I hadn't seen posted in here yet.

So I purchased dba 4000's for the front (they don't make rear rotors for our application). They are more expensive than the Rotoras ($120/each) but I figured why the hell not.

I paired them up with EBC RedStuff pads this time around. I was never pleased with the Hawk HPS pads; not to mention they ate up my rotors.

Sorry for the blurry pics. I was in a hurry and didn't realize they came out so shitty.



Temperature indicators:








Destroyed/Warped Rotoras:

 

Those look pretty nice, how do those temperature indicators work?

 

Basically informs you if your brakes have achieved above certain temperatures.



Also, the vanes within the vented disk are not straight cut like on the Rotora brakes. They have a different design that supposedly will dissipate heat better.

 

nice to see something different. the quality looks up there with rotora. where did you hear about them? i've never heard of this brand.

 

CLpower posted about them in Car Talk so I checked them out and they looked legit so I went ahead and figured I'd give them a shot.

 

The longest part of the brake install was drilling out one of those fucking screws.

 

yea, i just saw the car talk thread. looks interesting. btw - the EBC redstuff i run on an SC400, pretty happy with them, they give good braking both cold and hot, and the dust isn't anything ridiculous. one thing i noticed after about 15-20K miles they started squeeking a bit, but theres still plenty of life on them at 20K miles with moderate-heavy street use.

 

My Hawk HPS Street pads were toast. The difference between the new EBC pads and the Hawk pads I pulled off today was more than a 1/2"

I never liked them. Won't ever purchase them again.

It's obviously going to take me a few days to determine how I like the EBC pads. The only driving I've done is around the neighborhood to bed the pads.

 

Nice thread Steve... I've got 61K on my stock rotors and they are warped now, so I've started to look into replacements..

 

I'm coming close to the end on my Rotora's/Hawk pads as well.. Keep us updated, they look promising.

 

Either the Rotora or these dba's make a fine replacement to the stock rotors.

A pair of these dba rotors were $60+ more than a pair of Rotoras. I got free shipping though which probably saved me $20.

I still gotta do the rears in the coming weeks. I'll probably be hitting up Excelerate for some Rotora rear rotors and pads. SS lines too probably since they're only $110.

Might go with OEM rotors if they're significantly cheaper though.

 

I was always wondering about those rotors. Interesting design and temperature indicators are pretty damn cool. I never thought you could wear down slotted rotors down to the slots either. Very impressive..

Wish I read your opinion on hawk HPS pads before too. Maybe the reason I didn't like my legend calipers were because these pads sorta suck.

Let us know how you like those rotors! I'll definitely pick up a pair of those next time.

 

Scratch that. OEM rotors are only $5 cheaper than the Rotoras.

 

The slots on the back side of the rotors were worn completely flush with the rotor surface.

I should have replaced these 10k miles ago.

 

Brembo OE rotors are $59 ea from tirerack (plus shipping).
Bout $40 cheaper than rotoras for the set shipped..

 

Brembo doesn't make OE rear rotors.

 

Ah wasn't aware. I thought you were talking about the fronts. Definitely no reason not to go with rotoras over OEM in the rear.

 

Yep, for my fronts, Rotora and Brembo OE's are what I've been considering.. I definetely don't want drilled, and while I like blanks, might go with the slotted Rotoras.

Ugh.. There are so many brake pads out there and about a thousand threads about different pads here...

I might just cheap out and go with the Brembo OE's and Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads since I don't know how much longer I'm going to keep my CL...

But it's nice to know that you can get 60K out of the Rotoras

 

Those look really nice. I am at 52K right now on my TL and have to start thinking about new rotors and pads. The ones that were thrown on the car when I got it in December are crap and now when I break I feel like its wobbling or something.

Has anyone heard of "BrakePerformance" slotted and drilled rotors? They look pretty nice and they have a guarantee not to warp or crack.

http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...icle_type_id=1

 

they look good and u should really do something bout those calipers. sand them down and paint them black or better yeat silver and they will look brand new

 

I have the ebc green stuff pads and they work great with my brembo blank rotors. Are the EBC Reds better? Mr. Steve definately let us know how that setup works out for u.

 

Don't really care about how the calipers look honestly. Maybe I'll get around to painting them black but it's low on my list of priorities.

 

Anyone looking for new rotors... skip the drilled ones. It's typically 90% show.

I'm happy with the look at the quality of the dba

 

very cool find

 

And the pads have started to sqeak...

 

the redstuffs need a few hundred miles, then they will start to squeek again in like 15k

with that said, greenstuffs have been my favorite.

 

EBCs typically need a few hundred to break in, then you should bed them in

 

is there is big noticeable difference in the stopping power between the OEM pads and the EBC's

 

I already did the "bedding process"

I suppose I'll give it a try again later this week after a few miles are put on 'em.

 

excellent advice performance wise slotted is the way to go. When drilled are heated up and cool down, heated up and cool down, over time they'll crack!

 

eh?

 

the continuous hot/cold/hot/cold/hot/cold on the cross-drilled rotors causes em get weak, well on race cars anyway. They end up cracking...

 

i assume you are talking about OEM size blanks that are cross drilled since this thread is about OEM size rotors, in which case you would be correct because you are effectively reducing the surface area of the already stock size rotor by drilling holes into it. but if you have 13"+ rotors that are cross drilled on all 4 corners with multiple pistons per caliper, i'd like to see you try and crack them.

 

porsche, bmw, etc. quit running cross-drilled because they cracked on their race cars. Now they put them on their cars simply for looks...on our cars no, you're right...you'd never crack them w/ 4 or 6 piston cals.

 

^ No

 

no...what?

 

I would just like to know where you come up with some of this stuff you say. You make a lot of assertions without evidence. If the drilling is done properly there is no need to worry about cracking. Yes if you have the slots the drilling is more for show, but if done properly the rotor won't crack.

 

Have you seen a BMW WTCC Car lately? You may want to rethink that statement.

 

MB puts large cross drilled rotors on their Sport models...I've owned two C-series sport models and the rotors never cracked...Why would MB put enlarged crossdrilled rotors on their sport models and AMG series...to look pretty?...what are you talking about?

 

first of all, look at what mrsteve put in post 23, "90% for show." the m5 and m6 have cross-drilled as well (along with the m3 competition package). and yes, it is to look pretty. same as porsche (them and brembo have a deal worked out). do you honestly think that MB c-class sport models need cross-drilled or any other kind of performance brake set up; or any street car for that matter? no, they don't. I'm not talking about for just ordinary, every day driving. of course you're not going to get the rotors hot/cold/hot/cold/hot/cold like you would on racing vehicles. Yes, cross-drilled help transfer the gases from the rotors better than solid rotors help funnel out the gasses even better than drilled, also without sacrificing the strength of the rotor. based on pure performance, slotted is the way to go. what do you think formula1 cars run? cross-drilled? negative.
to prove my point: http://www.dinancars.com/Series.asp?...%20Tuning#2264
and FTW "Extensive testing on the street and at the track has enabled us to develop custom systems that have been tuned for optimum performance] while avoiding the foibles of typical “big brake kits”, such as unbalanced proportioning, poor pedal feel and unacceptable noise levels, just to name a few..."