damn wheels are hitting the rear fenders
02-02-2010, 03:17 PM
#1
damn wheels are hitting the rear fenders
I took a turn hard last night while people were in the back and quickly rubbed the rear fender.. this is the 2nd time it's happened in a week or 2 so I need to do something about it like ROLL MY FENDERS
i watch some DIYs on the topic and I saw the tool they want me to buy but it looks expensive and rare, and I'm only gonna need it once. SO
Can i roll my fenders without using the proper tool? like a rubber mallet or something? I need to get this done as one of my next mods will likely be coilovers :-)
i watch some DIYs on the topic and I saw the tool they want me to buy but it looks expensive and rare, and I'm only gonna need it once. SO
Can i roll my fenders without using the proper tool? like a rubber mallet or something? I need to get this done as one of my next mods will likely be coilovers :-)
02-02-2010, 04:30 PM
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Find a local shop that can roll your fenders so you don't have to buy the machine you are only going to use once.
A shop close to me quoted me $80 to do both of my rear fenders.
A shop close to me quoted me $80 to do both of my rear fenders.
02-02-2010, 04:55 PM
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
So what have you been quoted for the job then? I doubt it's more than $150 for the both of them.
02-02-2010, 04:57 PM
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
You could always post an ad on Craigslist and see if you could borrow one.
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02-02-2010, 05:38 PM
#8
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Really this is common? Glad I read this.. Mine did it for an hour or so after I replaced the front and side motor mounts and then stopped.
02-02-2010, 05:43 PM
#9
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And I've been looking at renting one you can get them for around 60 USD shipped. I tried the bat method and ended up slightly pulling out the whole fender a few mm's. No one else can really notice it but I know it's there.. I'd recommend NOT trying one of the homebrewed methods such as bat, hammer, pipe, etc.
02-02-2010, 10:09 PM
#16
and about that ticking purge solenoid.. I brought it to the DLR and they told me the ticking sound is normal and nothing to worry about. so I aint spending the $ for it
I got 35mm offset and 225/50r17 tires and I rub in the back with 3 or more people in the car on a hard turn. Nothing major, but still it's present. I like the high offset cause the wheels stick out of the car and it looks HAWT. so I'm sticking with them when i slam coilovers on. but i wanna roll the finders so this problem goes away and then hopefully I will be able to have no rubbing issues when i am lowered
I got 35mm offset and 225/50r17 tires and I rub in the back with 3 or more people in the car on a hard turn. Nothing major, but still it's present. I like the high offset cause the wheels stick out of the car and it looks HAWT. so I'm sticking with them when i slam coilovers on. but i wanna roll the finders so this problem goes away and then hopefully I will be able to have no rubbing issues when i am lowered
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 02-02-2010 at 10:12 PM.
02-03-2010, 07:10 AM
#17
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
The solenoid isn't major, just annoying.
You don't have a high offset, you have a low (lower) offset rims. High is like stock (55) that way the wheels wont rub the fenders. The lower you go the more they stick out.
You don't have a high offset, you have a low (lower) offset rims. High is like stock (55) that way the wheels wont rub the fenders. The lower you go the more they stick out.
02-03-2010, 07:26 AM
#18
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (3)
and about that ticking purge solenoid.. I brought it to the DLR and they told me the ticking sound is normal and nothing to worry about. so I aint spending the $ for it
I got 35mm offset and 225/50r17 tires and I rub in the back with 3 or more people in the car on a hard turn. Nothing major, but still it's present. I like the high offset cause the wheels stick out of the car and it looks HAWT. so I'm sticking with them when i slam coilovers on. but i wanna roll the finders so this problem goes away and then hopefully I will be able to have no rubbing issues when i am lowered
I got 35mm offset and 225/50r17 tires and I rub in the back with 3 or more people in the car on a hard turn. Nothing major, but still it's present. I like the high offset cause the wheels stick out of the car and it looks HAWT. so I'm sticking with them when i slam coilovers on. but i wanna roll the finders so this problem goes away and then hopefully I will be able to have no rubbing issues when i am lowered
02-03-2010, 07:29 AM
#19
TQ > MPG
and about that ticking purge solenoid.. I brought it to the DLR and they told me the ticking sound is normal and nothing to worry about. so I aint spending the $ for it
I got 35mm offset and 225/50r17 tires and I rub in the back with 3 or more people in the car on a hard turn. Nothing major, but still it's present. I like the high offset cause the wheels stick out of the car and it looks HAWT. so I'm sticking with them when i slam coilovers on. but i wanna roll the finders so this problem goes away and then hopefully I will be able to have no rubbing issues when i am lowered
I got 35mm offset and 225/50r17 tires and I rub in the back with 3 or more people in the car on a hard turn. Nothing major, but still it's present. I like the high offset cause the wheels stick out of the car and it looks HAWT. so I'm sticking with them when i slam coilovers on. but i wanna roll the finders so this problem goes away and then hopefully I will be able to have no rubbing issues when i am lowered
+35 offset is pretty low, so you'll most likely need to roll/trim the fenders and at leats have some negative camber to never rub.
I always recommend grinding down the fender lip vs. rolling them, mostly because even if the metal bends the paint will not. And I guarantee that in 6 months you will have flaking paint and rust forming under it.
I'd go buy a dremel and appropriate attachments to grind metal (or an actual angle grinder if you are manly) and go to town on the lip. Once you have taken off maybe a 1/4" with the grinder take a file and sandpaper and make sure to smooth off the area so in the future you dont need a tetanus shot.
Put some clearcoat or at least touch-up paint to prevent rust and go and test drive it with ppl in the back.
The other pro to this is that you get to keep the grinder, and I'm sure in the future you'll use it again.
02-03-2010, 07:41 AM
#20
TQ > MPG
It wouldnt help his speedo be more accurate, and I doubt it would help with the rubbing. The aspect ratio only changes the height of the tire, not the width.
225/45/17 = 2% smaller than OEM
225/50/17 = 1.5% larger than OEM
Really he should stay with the OEM size or go to 235/45/17 to make the OD the same as stock.
225/45/17 = 2% smaller than OEM
225/50/17 = 1.5% larger than OEM
Really he should stay with the OEM size or go to 235/45/17 to make the OD the same as stock.
02-03-2010, 08:39 AM
#22
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (3)
Mine has ticked since almost new with no issues, its just annoying in drive thru's.
+35 offset is pretty low, so you'll most likely need to roll/trim the fenders and at leats have some negative camber to never rub.
I always recommend grinding down the fender lip vs. rolling them, mostly because even if the metal bends the paint will not. And I guarantee that in 6 months you will have flaking paint and rust forming under it.
I'd go buy a dremel and appropriate attachments to grind metal (or an actual angle grinder if you are manly) and go to town on the lip. Once you have taken off maybe a 1/4" with the grinder take a file and sandpaper and make sure to smooth off the area so in the future you dont need a tetanus shot.
Put some clearcoat or at least touch-up paint to prevent rust and go and test drive it with ppl in the back.
The other pro to this is that you get to keep the grinder, and I'm sure in the future you'll use it again.
+35 offset is pretty low, so you'll most likely need to roll/trim the fenders and at leats have some negative camber to never rub.
I always recommend grinding down the fender lip vs. rolling them, mostly because even if the metal bends the paint will not. And I guarantee that in 6 months you will have flaking paint and rust forming under it.
I'd go buy a dremel and appropriate attachments to grind metal (or an actual angle grinder if you are manly) and go to town on the lip. Once you have taken off maybe a 1/4" with the grinder take a file and sandpaper and make sure to smooth off the area so in the future you dont need a tetanus shot.
Put some clearcoat or at least touch-up paint to prevent rust and go and test drive it with ppl in the back.
The other pro to this is that you get to keep the grinder, and I'm sure in the future you'll use it again.
It wouldnt help his speedo be more accurate, and I doubt it would help with the rubbing. The aspect ratio only changes the height of the tire, not the width.
225/45/17 = 2% smaller than OEM
225/50/17 = 1.5% larger than OEM
Really he should stay with the OEM size or go to 235/45/17 to make the OD the same as stock.
225/45/17 = 2% smaller than OEM
225/50/17 = 1.5% larger than OEM
Really he should stay with the OEM size or go to 235/45/17 to make the OD the same as stock.
02-03-2010, 08:42 AM
#23
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (3)
Mine has ticked since almost new with no issues, its just annoying in drive thru's.
+35 offset is pretty low, so you'll most likely need to roll/trim the fenders and at leats have some negative camber to never rub.
I always recommend grinding down the fender lip vs. rolling them, mostly because even if the metal bends the paint will not. And I guarantee that in 6 months you will have flaking paint and rust forming under it.
I'd go buy a dremel and appropriate attachments to grind metal (or an actual angle grinder if you are manly) and go to town on the lip. Once you have taken off maybe a 1/4" with the grinder take a file and sandpaper and make sure to smooth off the area so in the future you dont need a tetanus shot.
Put some clearcoat or at least touch-up paint to prevent rust and go and test drive it with ppl in the back.
The other pro to this is that you get to keep the grinder, and I'm sure in the future you'll use it again.
+35 offset is pretty low, so you'll most likely need to roll/trim the fenders and at leats have some negative camber to never rub.
I always recommend grinding down the fender lip vs. rolling them, mostly because even if the metal bends the paint will not. And I guarantee that in 6 months you will have flaking paint and rust forming under it.
I'd go buy a dremel and appropriate attachments to grind metal (or an actual angle grinder if you are manly) and go to town on the lip. Once you have taken off maybe a 1/4" with the grinder take a file and sandpaper and make sure to smooth off the area so in the future you dont need a tetanus shot.
Put some clearcoat or at least touch-up paint to prevent rust and go and test drive it with ppl in the back.
The other pro to this is that you get to keep the grinder, and I'm sure in the future you'll use it again.
02-03-2010, 08:45 AM
#24
TQ > MPG
02-03-2010, 10:21 AM
#30
hmm I do have a body man that could do it for me.
Lol an I actually don't have fat friends (no offense to anyone) but the 3rd person sitting in the cat only weighted 150lbs. granted I always have about 50-60lbs in the trunk of tools and my drill.
But yea, I just don't like this happening. When it hits is so minuscule but when I drop Ksports on there I'm gonna have hit that hard I'm assuming. And I hate having negative camber cause it destroys the tires SO.. for now I will roll them fenders, and when I get the K sports I am going to put them on a high height and see where I end up.
ksports only travel like 1.5 inches once they are one... at least the last set was like that on my previous car. i DUNNO I think it'll be CLOSE whether or not I can get away without rubbing on the regular
Lol an I actually don't have fat friends (no offense to anyone) but the 3rd person sitting in the cat only weighted 150lbs. granted I always have about 50-60lbs in the trunk of tools and my drill.
But yea, I just don't like this happening. When it hits is so minuscule but when I drop Ksports on there I'm gonna have hit that hard I'm assuming. And I hate having negative camber cause it destroys the tires SO.. for now I will roll them fenders, and when I get the K sports I am going to put them on a high height and see where I end up.
ksports only travel like 1.5 inches once they are one... at least the last set was like that on my previous car. i DUNNO I think it'll be CLOSE whether or not I can get away without rubbing on the regular
02-03-2010, 12:13 PM
#32
I went with wider tires cause it looks bad ass :-) hell my ford probe has 225 STOCK... so this car needed to be at least as wide IMHO. And besides I didn't think it'd be of any concern like it is now. PLUS i got the tires for 300$ installed since the guy selling them was an idiot and sold virtually brand new Goodyear Ls-2 tires so I jumped on it
yes I have decided I am going to grind out the fenders and the sand, prime the lip, then add some of that black gewwy crap for the undercarriage of the car which keeps out mositure.
I'm really accurate with a grinder since I have done bricks and many other fine cuts with that tool so this will be a breeze!
OFF TOPIC:
I just replaced my rear view mirror today since I noticed that it never auto tilted ever... since I got the car and it was beginning to bother me. Only 85$ with tax! I thought it was going to be like 200!! god damn was I happily surprised. took all of 7 mins SOO EASY.
and next on my list is to do the rear drum brakes since my e brake is SUPER WEAK and the pads/shoes in there are chewed up big time. SO i will do the fenders and the brakes at the same time... may do it tomorrow.
I will make a DIY for how to cut out the fenders, sand, prime etc.. for everyone :-)
yes I have decided I am going to grind out the fenders and the sand, prime the lip, then add some of that black gewwy crap for the undercarriage of the car which keeps out mositure.
I'm really accurate with a grinder since I have done bricks and many other fine cuts with that tool so this will be a breeze!
OFF TOPIC:
I just replaced my rear view mirror today since I noticed that it never auto tilted ever... since I got the car and it was beginning to bother me. Only 85$ with tax! I thought it was going to be like 200!! god damn was I happily surprised. took all of 7 mins SOO EASY.
and next on my list is to do the rear drum brakes since my e brake is SUPER WEAK and the pads/shoes in there are chewed up big time. SO i will do the fenders and the brakes at the same time... may do it tomorrow.
I will make a DIY for how to cut out the fenders, sand, prime etc.. for everyone :-)
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 02-03-2010 at 12:16 PM.
02-03-2010, 01:12 PM
#33
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
U can rent a fender roller, there's also ways to do it with a wooden baseball bat that I've seen on youtube, but just rent the machine or cut the tabs like others said, u shouldn't have to roll the fenders on 17's
02-03-2010, 01:17 PM
#34
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (3)
thats what i did i bought a $10 bat from a sporting goods store got a muscular friend of mine and there you have it rolled fenders in minutes. now im sitting 10 wide. and no it didnt crack my paint or jack my fenders up.
02-03-2010, 04:17 PM
#35
sall good i'm gonna grind it off and then cover up the bare metal.
Rolling the fenders just creates a huge area for salt and water and moisture to collect and stay, which is just as bad as grinding and exposing the metal IMHO. with some good sanding, few coats of primer and finally the black gewy shyt. I don't think i'll have to worry about the paint coming off.
anyone agree?
Rolling the fenders just creates a huge area for salt and water and moisture to collect and stay, which is just as bad as grinding and exposing the metal IMHO. with some good sanding, few coats of primer and finally the black gewy shyt. I don't think i'll have to worry about the paint coming off.
anyone agree?
02-04-2010, 07:03 AM
#36
Racer
I'm too afraid to do the cutting route. I considered the bat method. I assume with either method though it just applies to the back wells and you have to lose the inner plastic liner since the mounting tabs will be "gone"? Thanks.
02-04-2010, 10:15 AM
#37
on the rear fender there's no plastic need to be moved on the fron... whole different story... but I am not doing the front only the rears.
I decided to do it in the summer when the weather is hot. Better odds of not messing the car up in the process, so i'm gonna wait her out.
I decided to do it in the summer when the weather is hot. Better odds of not messing the car up in the process, so i'm gonna wait her out.
02-04-2010, 02:51 PM
#39
Moderator Alumnus
sall good i'm gonna grind it off and then cover up the bare metal.
Rolling the fenders just creates a huge area for salt and water and moisture to collect and stay, which is just as bad as grinding and exposing the metal IMHO. with some good sanding, few coats of primer and finally the black gewy shyt. I don't think i'll have to worry about the paint coming off.
anyone agree?
Rolling the fenders just creates a huge area for salt and water and moisture to collect and stay, which is just as bad as grinding and exposing the metal IMHO. with some good sanding, few coats of primer and finally the black gewy shyt. I don't think i'll have to worry about the paint coming off.
anyone agree?
I've had every fender lip butted up right against the fender wall so nothing can get in.
cars are the easiest to roll because of the metal companies use.This is a very bad idea.
