krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

Hope the setup works well, good looking. So I still need a pp and a throw out bearing? Anything else? Where can I get this stuff anyway b/c i know the oem clutch comes as a set? Can you buy this stuff separately?

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

is this the throwout bearing?
http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...bl3fyqbenufhqb

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...bl3fyqbenufhqb

Are these good prices for the pp and throw out bearing? ^

Allout

I think these guys have good prices on OEM parts.

http://oemacuraparts.com

And no - they do not sell the PP separate from the friction disk. That's why I have two new ones laying around. You'll buy the set and just use the PP.

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

It seems as if you can buy the friction disk by itself about 135 shipped:
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/partloc...layCatalogid=0

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

how much for the pp? How about the throw out bearing?

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

is the release bearing the same as the throwout bearing?
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/partloc...layCatalogid=0

Allout

I knew you could buy a friction disk alone but I didn't realize you could buy th PP by itself.

$156.85 for the pressure plate. I think I paid a little over 200 for the PP and Disk..

Allout

Yes. Release Bearing is listed as $31.43

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

i pm'ed you about the pressure plate

salcls

here's the update on my car! It turns out that not only did I fucked up my Flywheel/clutch/press. plate & crank sensor, my crankshaft was bent. It looks like the flywheel tweaked to the right ( if ur facing the engine) and bent the crap out of it. My homie was able to replace the clutch/flywheel for about $500 for parts/labor but he wasent able to replace the c/shaft, so I had to tow it to the dealer. The guy at the dealer told me to replace the the bent c/shaft it will be a $4,000 job becuz they have to take apart the engine. For $600 more he told me they will replace the whole bottom block and I'll practicaly have a new engine. Luckily I was able to get a "discount" and got the job done for $4,200. I will NEVER! put a light flywheel/ clutch on car agein!!!

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

Wow that sucks

Why not just get a used J32 engine?

salcls

Cuz I figured I'm practicaly getting a new engine and getting a used one can be risky. My engine is well taken care of so I know I wont have any problems with it down the road.

Seranin

any other fortunes or misfortunes with clutch & flywheel with the CLS6? Is the kit still the way to go? They have three different choices for the CL on their website... I might be buying an '03 and in case the clutch is shot I'd like to know what options are available

It sounds like going with comptech (if they even still sell them...) is a mistake based on the poor experiences by salcls and the original poster.

TheWeez

Best way to go is with the factory clutch unless you're running a boosted application. Even with low boost the factory clutch setup is just fine.

krisdlm

iTrader: (1)

yep, oem is still working out, but too bad no one makes an ideal clutch/flywheel/pp for our cars

TheWeez

Sure but how many people are really running a setup that requires anything more then the factory clutch? Less then a dozen?

Allout

The lightweight flywheel doesn't add additional capacity but adds drivability and faster revs. I like my setup and would not hesitate doing it again.

jl03CLS

this may have already been answered but would it be ok to use the UR stock size pulley and comptech flywheel? im assuming the UR pulley in the previous posts is the underdrive pulley.

Allout

Both UR pulleys would cause the problems with the Comptech flywheel/OEM pressure plate. It's more related to removing the dampening from both ends of the crank and causing too much shock for the stock pressure plate to handle.

typeR

i only know of this one instance , i dont think its been determined that having both was the real problem...

Allout

There were a couple of other guys that had problems too. I think one actually had a bent crank too.

jl03CLS

gotcha. thanks for the info.

typeR

got any links to threads about these others ? im curious

Allout

Take a look at post # 50, 52, and 76 in this thread. I don't think we'll find conclusive proof but these indications are enough for me.

There are quite a few problem free Comptech Flywheel users out there - ThinJim being one when he put down 460whp with his Turbo Kit. My clutch is still running fine too. Most of the problems I've heard of relate to using lightweight crank and flywheel.

CivicB18B1

iTrader: (2)

*** Sorry to post in a old thread ***


My clutch is broken so i bought the new oem kit (clutch + pressure plate) along with the clutch bearing...

BUT.......

My OEM flywheel is going to be resurfaced tommorow... and i bought the UR crank pulley...

When you resurface the flywheel, it remove some weight... do i will have problems with the UR pulley??

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

No that amount is insignificant compared to the weight difference between teh two flywheels ~20lbs

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

You can't resurface dual mass flywheels.

Rush330hp

try this site and good luck

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...parts/Acura/CL

Rush330hp

hows that spacer working ? any codes? cause my keeps flashing and am on my second eng

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

No its not, mine slips at ~30K miles.

Especially if you deleted the CDD valve.

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

As for the flywheel I guess you can always get the Luk dual mass flywheel for our cars that runs $260 shipped on ebay, so does there clutch kit so i'd recomend buying the Accord clutch kit on www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for $240 shipped and save $20.

jproy

Dont use the lightweight flywheel with the lightweight crank pulley or the clutch/flywheel will be destroyed. Only use one or the other. I hope your read the whole thread before asking that. If you didnt take the time to read it, I might be wrong.

allmotor_2000

I still think its unproven that the UR pulley + comptech flywheel caused the problems on my car. Crank was not warped, nor were the main bearings overly stressed once I took the motor out.

SIRSIG

I'm running both before... NO PROBLEM or what so ever. But, something i noticed was the vibration, not only because of the Inno mounts but it became stronger after the UR crank pulley (OEM size) was put on.

I blew my piston though, which i blame the lack of tuning when everytime i open up my EEC...

Allout

Good seeing you posting again Ram. Got any projects brewing?

allmotor_2000

Thought I'd poke around here again... no new projects yet. Waiting for a GT-R without any premium :-)

Allout

That's a nice machine. I wonder if there will be some on the market with blown transmissions? I've heard of warranties being voided if traction control is turned off for extended times thus sticking the owners with a $20K bill. Heard of a few people backing out of their purchases once they heard of Nissan's stand.

Don't be a stranger and hope you stick around. Your advice is missed around here.

NSX-Tuner

I've heard that if you look in the owner's manual, there's a section that you list the actual replacement of each transmission along with the mileage, serial #, and date of replacement. Disposable transmissions???

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

Wow...that's ridiculous!

Won't rank high on Consumer Reports!