Well its 11:30 and im bored so I thought id throw this out to get some feedback....

With all the chatter about the AEM CAI I was curious (being I'm cheap not poor lol ) how much more effective their CAI is opposed to a "Home-Made" CAI. Now taking into account that intake velocity, thermal dissipation, and asethetics are of equal importance in an effective CAI..... Would me using a 3" Aluminum tubing possibly wrapped in heat resistant wrap similar to that used to insulate headers/exhaust... and possibly a heat resistant composite/plastic exterior sheathing.... Ofcourse coupled with the bypass filter to avoid that nasty hydrolock possibility and the big-ass 9" K&N cone filter...?? It may be sleep deprivation talking, but it seems to me that even paying half the cost of the AEM CAI in parts... may be worthwhile as it keeps me busy and out of trouble by starting flame wars LOL But in all seriousness if decent materials are used that will not hinder intake velocity mated with a good air and bypass filter it seems to me that it should work pretty damn well. Not to mention the sliding window release date for our Type-S CAI from AEM. Even if its a bit heavier.... even an extra 3lbs over the AEM weight (could help with traction on launching LOL ) if its wrapped and sheilded shouldnt that work as well or better then their ceramic coated aluminum in terms of maintaining cooler temperature? And providing I follow the bends and filter location they use .......? Well sorry for the super long post and the ass whooping Im going to get for it LOL Be gentle ..... I Sleeeeeeepy

 

yoohooo Insomnia sux... Anyone awake out here?

 

I agree with you to a point. I'm not one to skimp so I'm waiting for the AEM CAI...stupid me. I paid over $30k for this car and a couple hundred more $ isn't going to hurt.

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2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech Headers
Comptech Springs
Muds
Wheel locks
35% Llumar metallic tint
Best 0-60. 6.08 Gtech Pro (Preheaders)

My Car

 

Well I have a whole free day tomorrow to myself with a nice heated and underutilized garage so i thought maybe id get up early and do some experimenting LOL how about a 10 gallon tank of oxygen directly injected in there LOL hahahahahah now that would be some kick ass supercold-supercharged intake LOL hahahah kidding nobody rip me a new one for that LOL

 

I heard that a homemade solution to CAI's works very well. Then again, I really didn't want to find out, so I bought an AEM I think that since there is still time before AEM releases their CL-S CAI, you should make one for your car and see how it goes.

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Tw1112
CL 3.0 '98 - Cleared bumper, hiper/piaa bulbs all around, PIAA 1700x fogs, and AEM CAI.

• My CL
• LA Autoshow
• SoCal Meet

 

I bought my CL-S in July and in that same month "I" engineered a CAI of my own. Simply using the 98'- Accord pipe and K&N filter. Havn't had a prob since then. I guess I just like the sound I get when VTEC kicks in. I guess I'll get the AEM when, if it ever, comes out. Simply for the reason that it was made specifically for the "S".

 

I'm using a custom intake I made myself. I just removed the airbox and stuck a cone filter at the end of the stock tube coming from the TB. Total was $33 (filter and clamp).

However, one odd thing occured yesterday. I went out last night and my car was still pretty cold (and 49F outside). I came to a stop and the revs flucuated alittle and then it drop to ZERO! Well of course, I stalled and started her up again. After the engine warmed up, I didn't have any trouble after that. What do you guys think happened? I'm going to make sure the clamp is tight today and I'll see what happens.

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2001 Acura CL Type-S Satin Silver/Ebony
Debadged, PIAA Roadlamps, M-11 Turn signals, Comptech Headers, Comptech Springs, custom intake

 

Hmm...that is kinda weird Ronnie. My 3.0 has dropped pretty low when the engine was still cold, but never to zero. Maybe we shouldn't rev our engines when they are cold?

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Tw1112
CL 3.0 '98 - Cleared bumper, hiper/piaa bulbs all around, PIAA 1700x fogs, and AEM CAI.

• My CL
• LA Autoshow
• SoCal Meet

 

To give you an idea:

 

I have done many customs and have been pleased with the performance of all. But the aethestics have been lacking and today that does have an importance to me. So I spent the $230 and went with the AEM CAI.

All I can say is why wait...





[This message has been edited by scalbert (edited 01-13-2001).]

 

Well, I think I fixed the problem. When I looked at the filter today, it was kinda loose, so I just had to reclamp it down tighter. I didn't have any problems today. Woohoo!

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2001 Acura CL Type-S Satin Silver/Ebony
Debadged, PIAA Roadlamps, M-11 Turn signals, Comptech Headers, Comptech Springs, custom intake

 

Has anyone dyno tested the K&N or APC filter directly on the rubber extension pipe just after the Mass Air Flow Sensor (I Think thats it) ?? I just inserted an APC Cone on the end of the rubber extension housing and used to variable clamps to seal the connection and it sounds incredible!!!! It really sounds soooo damned agressive ... but im too excited to notice any actual performance gains....I hope there arent any detrimental effects as this is not tuned or maximized for temperature or air flow... Im on my way out to the garage to finish the down pipe such that it can be a true cold air intake. Any of you guys have any Hints or advice on how to remove the very bottom peice of the stock intake? I have removed the piping to the mass air flow sensor, the resonator/filter box.... now what i am left with is the peice of rubber fastened to the very bottom behind the light housing that seems like a big U pipe...?? Please Help

 

Scalbert or Beatyallz please help a guy out with any info or advice on the last msg pleaaaseeeeeeeeeeee

 

the 0 rpm thing I have had too and I have a STOCK CL-S it only happened once and it was while I was braking I hadn't come to a complete stop when the RPM dropped to zero for 1/2 a second and then came back up. As for tach fulcuations I have a few like if going at speed at you take your foot off the gas completely the RPM dropp to idleing 750 and then goes up to 1250 RPM and then back to 750 RPM.

 

Our cars use a speed density system, MAP and IAT, not a MAS system. The first hard unit in the intake tract is the VSA throttle.

The detrements you will have are the standard sucking in of warm to hot underhood air when at idle or low speeds. So you will get more variability of the gains.

As for the rest of the stock intake. You will need to remove the bumper to get at the two remaining bolts.

 

Beatyall,

Thanks for the info ... I was able to get the rest of the stock assembly w/o having to remove the bumper just by unscrewing the splash guard up to the wheel well and reaching in with a socket wrench. So no bumper removal was needed I had my father spray down a aluminum 3" pipe that Im using for the down pipe with a hard surfacing compound that is a composite ceramic that he uses for industrial apps where usually steel is exposed to high temps. Im going down to bolt it all together and see how it fits, the whole asssembly from Intake to filter weighs about 3lbs (ceramic is heavy Lol) but im hopeful it works better, now i just need to wait for my bypass valve to come in

 

Xephyr2K - I have that setup, but I haven't dyno'd it yet. I tried to make a tube to make it a CAI, but it made this horrible humming noise. Hope you have better luck than I.

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2001 Acura CL Type-S Satin Silver/Ebony
Debadged, PIAA Roadlamps, M-11 Turn signals, Comptech Headers, Comptech Springs, custom intake