zeta

iTrader: (1)

I recently remember reading a thread in regards to this modification and decided to give it a try; however, I wanted to replace the OEM rubber clutch hose Acura #46961-S3M-A02 (75,000 miles ) with a steel braided line if possible.

I found the website below and ordered the clutch line for the 03-06 Accord; part #HNC-011 ; $33.50 shipped to S. Florida.
http://www.techna-fit.com/clutch.html

It turned out to be a direct replacement for the illustrated CLS-6 clutch hose; #16 on this web page:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

1) Disconnect the OEM rubber hose (10mm) at the clutch dampner and clutch pipe B.
2) Remove the dampner bolts & dampner (10mm) from the bracket.
3) Relocate the new steel line (#HSN-011) to OEM location clutch pipe B & dampner bracket location clutch pipe A; tighten and place the OEM clips to secure the line ends in place.
4) Bleed the clutch system to remove the air from the new hose; start the engine to test clutch engagement in all gears; check for leaks; test drive.

No need to modify/move the dampner bracket and one can always return the system back to stock.

In addition, if you prefer not to replace the OEM clutch hose with the steel line, one could just remove the dampner and reroute the OEM line also.

The clutch pedal is now noticably firmer and I don't get any gear grind during spirited 1st through 4th gear shifting .

This steel line may also work for the 04-06 TL-6 guys; however; I'm not sure of the OEM clutch hose line length and end fitting size on that model.

Peace

Titand19

nice work, I might do this

jproy

My six speed tranny just blew up today as I was on the interstate. I am stuck in Birmingham, AL. I love the way this mod sounds. Glad to hear it works as I have been interested in this since that first thread. keep it up

goredcar

Sorry to be dense... so what exactly is the advantage of a steel braided line over the stock rubber one? My clutch feels very firm... I don't think that I would want it any firmer or I'll start to look like a mutant with a large left leg.

I don't see how changing the clutch line would reduce notchiness or shift quality. I fixed the 1-2 notchiness by replacing the trans fluid with GM friction modified.

Titand19

interesting

Allout

I think King Motorsports also has a replacement line for the Civic. I was wondering if it would work on ours.

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I need to do something. My clutch still grabs but the pedal feel is extremely light compared to what it used to be.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I have been driving the car for a few days now and I've gotten used to the additional firmness in the pedal. The clutch seems to be engaging stronger while pulling in boost through 1st - 3rd It's had to explain; however, it's working for me :

Like I mentioned, If I was to perform this mod, I really wanted to replace the OEM clutch hose with something steel braided, if possible. It turns out that I was lucky enough to find something that bolted in with no problems. YMMV

Just thought the ACL community would like to know.

jproy

I will probably try this when my car gets fixed. thanks

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

I just replaced my clutch last week and have noticed for quite some time the pedal is much much much lighter than it used to be.

I'm thinking it's the clutch line as well that either needs to be replaced to help make it firm again, and/or a bleeidng of the clutch line. Is it even possible that air entered the system and the line needs to be bled????

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

Anyone answer the question about "what are the benefits of going with a stainless steel clutch line compared to the oem rubber clutch line"

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

Also, since you upgraded the line zeta, how's it holding up now? has the new line given you any problems? What was the quality of the stainless steel line?

Glasuan

I would imagine the benefits of a stainless steel clutch line, are the same as for brakes. In other words, since they won't flex with extreme pressure, you get more assured clutch modulation.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

In short, better clutch response?

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like your clutch line needs to be bled. Might as well install the line and bleed it right after.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

The line was bled when my new clutch was installed, I didn't know they did that until I spoke with them again. I'm just wondering if the line is just getting old and worn now. I spoke with a service tech and he said that everything is fine and the mechanic said everything is good. Except I drive my car so much that only I can really tell that the pedal isn't as firm as it was before.

jproy

just becuase the dealer says they bled it doesnt mean there is not air in the line by a long shot. I have had to go back for rebleeds on the brakes half the times they have worked on them. Also your new clutch will need time to bed itself to the new disk like a set of brakes. It should get better with time assuming nothing is wrong.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I have had no problems with the steel line. The quality of the hose was excellant when I purchased it.

As a precaution, when I installed this, I did flush out the clutch master cylinder fluid with new fluid via a vacuum bleeding process.

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

Got a question for you guys, when I did a friend's 06 RSX-S comptech icebox install a braided stainless-steel line was provided to replace the stock one. I guess if you look at the parts diagram Zeta provided, part #19 (clutch line b) would be replaced with a similar braided clutch line. Is this similar to what Zeta did above.

I guess I am confused, what purpose does the damper serve and with this install will it be used at all?

Allout

I removed the CDD this weekend and so far I like the feel of the clutch. I went the same route as Zeta and got the HNC-011 clutch line for the 03-06 Accord from:
http://www.techna-fit.com/clutch.html

Pretty easy to drop in. Bled the clutch and flushed out the old fluid at the same time. The clutch feels more lively and responsive on engagement. To me it feels like you have more control over the clutch engagement

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Yeah this is on hold for me. They sent me the wrong line. Had the right part # though, but different fittings.
Allout, how did you bleed the clutch? I've never bleed anything myself so I need to be schooled.

artbran

iTrader: (2)

Someone needs to pump the pedal while you are at the slave with an 8mm wrench. have them pump the clutch 10 times and hold it down. Then you loosen the little nipple valve thing on the slave. Once all the fluid is out (from the pressure that built up), close the valve and have your buddy pump again following the above until you have clean fluid coming out the nipple.. Oh and make sure you have a hose on it that leads to a bottle or something to collect all the old fluid..

make sure the reservoir is always full and the cap is on.. With no cap, it doesnt want to pressurize. At least it didnt for me...

Allout

I use a Mityvac to bleed my brakes and clutch.
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac%C2%AE-...5503622&sr=1-9


You put one end of the hose on the bleed nipple of the clutch slave cylinder. Pump the handle to create vacuum and crack the bleeder valve 1/2 turn. The vacuum will pull the brake/clutch fluid into the jar. One trick that I found helps with this method is to teflon tape the threads of the bleeder valve so air doesn't leak around the threads too much. You can also put some heavy grease around the threads to seal the bleeder valve also.

Before I start bleeding, I use this device to suck out the old fluid from the master cylinder and then I refill with fresh fluid. Then I use the device to suck fluid through the system as described above. A couple of containers of fluid usually gets me to clean fresh fluid. As others have mentioned, always watch the master cylinder and never let it run dry or you'll have to start all over.

Others have also just pumped the clutch pedal with a hose in a jar and had good results too. Jen's instructions on bleeding brakes applies to bleeding a clutch too.
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118783

Knowing you Fuzzy, once you've done it, you'll be showing us better ways to do it

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Well I got the replacement line, but again it's not correct. Part # says HNC-009.

That's the 04 TL fitment. I'm going to try to fit this line anyway. If it doesn't fit I'm just using the stock line.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you want to have them correct their problem and have them send you the right part?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Curious to see if it fits. And I don't feel like waiting another week to get the other line if this will work. The fittings are correct, it's the length I'm not sure on.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

hey howd that line work out for you? I ordered my clutch line along with my brake lines. I got the brake lines on and the system bled out with ate super blue...but got sick so i havent been able to get the Clutch line on yet. Hope they sent me the correct one. It says on the package 03-06 accord line. Also to bleed the clutch, you can do the same thing as the brakes...get about 3 feet of 1/4 inch hose and a clear containter. Put enough fluid in the container to submerge the hose and pump the clutch pedal several times..make sure the resevoir never runs dry or you will introduce more air in the lines. With the ATE stuff you just pump until all the fluid comes out blue and you know all the old fluid is out, and no air is in the system.

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

to keep the resevoir full, do u just add new clutch fluid?

how would you completely change to new clutch fluid? b/c if u keep pumping the clutch and pouring new in you're just mixing old with new... if that makes sense.

Allout

You can suck the old fluid out of the reservour using a turkey baster too before you add new fluid. You will get some cross contamination between the old and new but it's not significant.

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

Use a brake flush machine but substitute the brae fluid with clutch fluid. Basically forces fluid into the resevoir and then you basically bleed the farthest caliper from the clutch resevoir and then the second farthest and so on.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Yeah but eventually if you keep adding new, all the old stuff will get pumped out and you will have all new fluid. Its really easy to tell when all the old fluid is out if you buy the ATE super blue. The fluid is blue so when all the fluid that comes out is blue, youve completly flushed out all the old fluid

Allout

Clutch and brake fluid are the same. Plus there's only one bleed point on the clutch slave.

Allout

Even with regular fluid it's obvious. Once you get clear fresh fluid, you're there.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Does the line you have have 2 screw in fittings? The line I had was labeled the right part but had 1 screw fitting & another banjo bolt round fitting.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

The line i have has 2 screw type fittings on it. Its the correct line, i just have to go get a 10mm flare wrench so i can get the lines unscrewed. There on there super tight and a regular 10mm wrench just keeps slipping off.

Allout

That sounds like a brake line.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Finished mine up a little while ago. It fit perfectly, i didnt do the bypass, just the SS line and fluid flush with ate super blue.

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

did the bypass today, didn't go that smooth, but it's done. the clutch was very soft before, it got a tad bit firmer.

i don't think i bleed the line correctly. during the install clutch pipe b leaked clutch fluid, i was wondering if you can bleed the clutch lines through the end of clutch pipe b. or is there another way to bleed it.

Allout

You have to bleed it at the slave cylinder using the bleed screw (see #1 on the illustration). Clutch pipe B connects to the slave cylinder.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

SkillOBskilled

iTrader: (1)

What do you guys think of getting a replacement B pipe and bending it to make a direct connection between the slave and the clutch? Is it long enough?