CL-S6 Negative battery ground cable assembly

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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 01:01 PM
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Suzuka Master
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CL-S6 Negative battery ground cable assembly

Looking at mine today it shows a vertical crack / separation (purple arrow) at the nut / bolt and round terminal fastener area.
Positive cable looks good to go.

With that said, a CL-S 6 negative ground cable assembly 32600-S3M-A00 search comes up with either 'Currently Unavailable' or 'Discontinued'.
OEM Specs. 16x9.4x1

With a cursory search, the closest spec. OEM alternative I can find is 2002 Accord V6 32600-S84-A00.
OEM specs. 11x10x3

The automatic CL / TL one 32600-S0K-A10 appears available; however, its specs are shorter 9.7x9.2x1.

A 'grins & giggles' search for the 2002 odyssey shows 32600-S0X-A02.
Its specs are 12.17x11.1x1.73.
This one is appealing because it is just over an inch larger than the 02 Accord one; however, I'd have to cut down the 11.1 strap that connects to the radiator support and reclamp it. I would prefer not do this if possible.

Just curious, @619rcr what are you running on your 6GA?
The Accord one or the CL-S6 one?

If anyone knows of an Acura or Honda one that is closer to the 16" length of the CLS-6 one chime in.
I'll keep looking in the mean time.
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 02:09 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Hey Zeta, I was using the cls6 cables. But when I relocated the battery to the trunk I moved to a single 4GA ground cable from the block to a point on the left frame rail. In the back i have the ground from the battery bolted to the center of the spare tire well. It works well so far.

I like factory cables too, but you could just go on Amazon and find a battery post adapter that takes a 4GA input and fastens with an allen screw.

something like the adapter in this set:
https://a.co/d/iy89gWS

When you get it, cut the big factory clamp off, strip the insulation back like 1/2" and just push it in the post adapter. you won't lose much length maybe 3/4 -1 nch max.

Btw, I still have the factory cls cable. the long side of the gnd is 24"

Last edited by 619rcr; Aug 27, 2022 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 619rcr
Btw, I still have the factory cls cable. the long side of the gnd is 24"
Thanks for that measurement, 619rcr!
So much for the accuracy of the specs from acurapartswarehouse.coms website.



I will probably go with that terminal kit you supplied above to make life easier, otherwise it's a 'roll of the dice' relying on that website spec data.
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta
Thanks for that measurement, 619rcr!
So much for the accuracy of the specs from acurapartswarehouse.coms website.



I will probably go with that terminal kit you supplied above to make life easier, otherwise it's a 'roll of the dice' relying on that website spec data.
Yeah, my guess is that website measurement is the box size.
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 03:36 PM
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Is your issue with the actual clamp that connects to the battery terminal? One of mine broke a long time ago, and I just went ahead and replaced both with new clamps from AutoZone. Easy to install, and they haven't given me any issues.

​​​​​
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 04:09 PM
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zeta's Avatar
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^
Yeah, the nut side has elongated into the bolt passage from years of clamping down / over tightening such that it has actually split the flat surfaces (red arrow) away at the round terminal surround.
I've looked at it again, since my battery box is lowered, because of the S/C'er location, the actual length of the 'long side of the ground' may not factor, to my detriment, in worrying about overall length.
Therefore, I may get away with using a shorter one, like the Accord cable.
Now if the battery were positioned in its higher stock location, length would probably matter.
Gotta think on it some more.

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Old Sep 1, 2022 | 04:36 PM
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For those interested, I purchased the 32600-S87-A00 Neg Bat. Cable Assy. for an 02 Accord V6.
As you can see from the pic below the lengths are the same.
The only difference on the Accord one is the radiator support cable is mounted under the main negative cable and the end attachment has the little 'stay' arm on the opposite side, nothing a hammer could not correct.
If I were smarter, I would have just tried the 32600-S0K-A10 2003 CL-P one.

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