CL needed in WA for custom work! PLEASE!
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CL needed in WA for custom work! PLEASE!
I have done custom work for many of you around the U.S. and Canada. About 85% of all custom goods that I ship are for TSX and TL owners. I always have CL owners asking me for custom subwoofer enclosures but I do not have a mold for them. And all my local CL buddies have moved or traded in their coupe.
I need ONE 2nd gen CL local to the Tacoma area that I can use for about 8 hours. I would be making a fiberglass impression of the drivers side corner of your trunk. I will pay for your time or build you a custom enclosure for half price. Please send me an email if you are interested. Thank you!!
You can check out my work in the Sponsored Sales Area... HERE and... HERE
I need ONE 2nd gen CL local to the Tacoma area that I can use for about 8 hours. I would be making a fiberglass impression of the drivers side corner of your trunk. I will pay for your time or build you a custom enclosure for half price. Please send me an email if you are interested. Thank you!!
You can check out my work in the Sponsored Sales Area... HERE and... HERE
If you cant get anyone else up there, i can come., but im not sure how we would work that out since ive already got a custom trunk. You installed my JL stuff back in July, im from portland with the Blue CLS. Let me know if you cant get anyone more local to help you out
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Originally Posted by Silvaccordex01
If you cant get anyone else up there, i can come., but im not sure how we would work that out since ive already got a custom trunk. You installed my JL stuff back in July, im from portland with the Blue CLS. Let me know if you cant get anyone more local to help you out
Ive done a few more things since you saw it. Some ive posted pix of in the photograph area of the forum. Im still looking to get my alarm installed, but the guy that was supposed to do it last sunday got put on leave, and may not be coming back. If you decide you want me to come up, maybe we can work something out with you installing my alarm. Let me know if i can help.
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Originally Posted by Ehrade
haha.... I have a Virgin Trunk, Im up in Kirkland. I could probably help 
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Originally Posted by Paclark01
Come on people... CL owners on the east coast need this audio upgrade from UNCALD4.
Originally Posted by punkrockadam
i'm in tacoma and i'm down
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Originally Posted by punkrockadam
ya, i'll be at work from 12-5. i work at house of tattoo on 6th ave if you wanna stop by. if not let me know what other days work for ya.
Adam
Adam
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Adam hooked it up and I've started the reverse mold for the 2nd gen CL. I'm a bit busy with shizz this week and next but I should be able to get an enclosure completed by next week. As soon as it's done Adam is going to let me snap some pics of it in his CL.
At that point I can make a good mold from the finished enclosure.
Thanks again Adam!
At that point I can make a good mold from the finished enclosure.
Thanks again Adam!
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Alrighty. I finished the enclosure last week. Adam was getting crunk in Vegas so I had to wait until he came back to get some pics. Hand here are the pics......




Thanks very much to punkrockadam for helping me get this done. It turned out awesome. I now have a mold for the 2nd gen CL.




Thanks very much to punkrockadam for helping me get this done. It turned out awesome. I now have a mold for the 2nd gen CL.
wow that looks great. I love how it takes up almost none of the useable trunk space. When I get to the sound system stage of my modding I will have to have one of these bad boys. Any particular subs you recommend for this enclosure?
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Originally Posted by underst8
wow that looks great. I love how it takes up almost none of the useable trunk space. When I get to the sound system stage of my modding I will have to have one of these bad boys. Any particular subs you recommend for this enclosure?
I recommend using a 10" subwoofer for best sound quality and performance. A JL Audio 10W3 would be the most efficient candidate. If you want more brute force use a 10W6. Another great 10" sub is the Diamond Audio D3. If you require some "Dirty South" bass use a 12" subwoofer of your choice. The parameters of the 2nd gen CL and TL allow for pretty much any 8", 10" or 12" you want.
is the enclosure secured by the two original bolts at the bottom of the pocket? also what if one would like to put in 2 subs, would you be able to fiberglass on the otherside of course the jack + tools would need to be removed
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Originally Posted by Ralphie917
Any idea on interior volume? Do you have any plans to make an opposite side enclosure (if someone wanted 2 subs for instance)?
Originally Posted by cltypeSLOW
$?
Originally Posted by LIPPSTUH
is the enclosure secured by the two original bolts at the bottom of the pocket? also what if one would like to put in 2 subs, would you be able to fiberglass on the otherside of course the jack + tools would need to be removed
You went through all that trouble and didn't get a passenger mold? I would be down for a nice, out-of-the-way 2 x 12'' setup.
Thanks again for the dash kit uncald, fits like a glove.
Thanks again for the dash kit uncald, fits like a glove.
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Originally Posted by Corrosion
You went through all that trouble and didn't get a passenger mold? I would be down for a nice, out-of-the-way 2 x 12'' setup.
Thanks again for the dash kit uncald, fits like a glove.
Thanks again for the dash kit uncald, fits like a glove.
It's hard to understand how much more performance you can get out of a subwoofer when using a well thought out custom fiberglass enclosure.
About a year ago I built a custom box for two 10" Infinity Kappa VQD's. Very meaty subwoofers running off a 700 watt amp. This box was made from 3/4" MDF and I installed that and a bunch of other audio gear into a 2003 CL-S. It sounded clean and hit hard. I ran the RTA machine on it to see what kind of numbers it was producing. (an RTA is a meter helps installers tune a system, it also shows real time sound pressure levels inside the car) Most factory car stereo's produce about 120db at max volume. This CL-S was pushing 134.5db which is pretty damn loud. Just for shits I pulled in my 2002 TL-S the next day and ran it through the RTA with the same music. My TL-S was pushing 136.1db. I have a single JL Audio 10W3 in a fiberglass enclosure running off 250 watts.
You can run this test all day with any subwoofer and any amp. My fiberglass enclosures will always spank a wood box.
Originally Posted by uncald4
Awesome! You're welcome. Yeah, I didn't have time to lay the passenger side glass. Maybe some day. It's my opinion that two 12" subwoofers in that trunk using fiberglass enclosures is way too much. There would be so much sound pressure pushing your trunk lid out that it would cause problems.
It's hard to understand how much more performance you can get out of a subwoofer when using a well thought out custom fiberglass enclosure.
About a year ago I built a custom box for two 10" Infinity Kappa VQD's. Very meaty subwoofers running off a 700 watt amp. This box was made from 3/4" MDF and I installed that and a bunch of other audio gear into a 2003 CL-S. It sounded clean and hit hard. I ran the RTA machine on it to see what kind of numbers it was producing. (an RTA is a meter helps installers tune a system, it also shows real time sound pressure levels inside the car) Most factory car stereo's produce about 120db at max volume. This CL-S was pushing 134.5db which is pretty damn loud. Just for shits I pulled in my 2002 TL-S the next day and ran it through the RTA with the same music. My TL-S was pushing 136.1db. I have a single JL Audio 10W3 in a fiberglass enclosure running off 250 watts.
You can run this test all day with any subwoofer and any amp. My fiberglass enclosures will always spank a wood box.
It's hard to understand how much more performance you can get out of a subwoofer when using a well thought out custom fiberglass enclosure.
About a year ago I built a custom box for two 10" Infinity Kappa VQD's. Very meaty subwoofers running off a 700 watt amp. This box was made from 3/4" MDF and I installed that and a bunch of other audio gear into a 2003 CL-S. It sounded clean and hit hard. I ran the RTA machine on it to see what kind of numbers it was producing. (an RTA is a meter helps installers tune a system, it also shows real time sound pressure levels inside the car) Most factory car stereo's produce about 120db at max volume. This CL-S was pushing 134.5db which is pretty damn loud. Just for shits I pulled in my 2002 TL-S the next day and ran it through the RTA with the same music. My TL-S was pushing 136.1db. I have a single JL Audio 10W3 in a fiberglass enclosure running off 250 watts.
You can run this test all day with any subwoofer and any amp. My fiberglass enclosures will always spank a wood box.
fiberglass is a lot more flexible than wood, i mean they use these for custom fitted enclosures like the one in your picture.
so i don't think its a supported statement saying that a fiberglass enclosure will "spank" wooden enclosures. there are a lot of factors. if you can great a fiberglass BOX same shape, height, length, depth and thickness as a wooden box. run the same amp, sub in the same car that would be a better test. you must eliminate as many different factors as possible to run a non-bias test.
but i do prefer fiberglass to save space and have more creativity.
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Originally Posted by LIPPSTUH
i would think wooden boxes produce better sound than fiberglass.... many speakers (not just cars, but home theatre) use wood for enclosure. People who are into audio competition also use wood as well. wood resonates the sound.
fiberglass is a lot more flexible than wood, i mean they use these for custom fitted enclosures like the one in your picture.
so i don't think its a supported statement saying that a fiberglass enclosure will "spank" wooden enclosures. there are a lot of factors. if you can great a fiberglass BOX same shape, height, length, depth and thickness as a wooden box. run the same amp, sub in the same car that would be a better test. you must eliminate as many different factors as possible to run a non-bias test.
but i do prefer fiberglass to save space and have more creativity.
fiberglass is a lot more flexible than wood, i mean they use these for custom fitted enclosures like the one in your picture.
so i don't think its a supported statement saying that a fiberglass enclosure will "spank" wooden enclosures. there are a lot of factors. if you can great a fiberglass BOX same shape, height, length, depth and thickness as a wooden box. run the same amp, sub in the same car that would be a better test. you must eliminate as many different factors as possible to run a non-bias test.
but i do prefer fiberglass to save space and have more creativity.
You are correct on this.....Any speaker sounds better in a wooden cabinet. That's why your home speakers are in wooden cabinets. The acoustic allowed from a wooden cabinet are better.
Fiberglass is not more flexible than wood. Actually a 3/8" thick piece of fiberglass is more rigid and stronger than a 3/4 piece of wood.
When you employ the services of a subwoofer in your car you are not putting it in the trunk so that you can hear the beautiful acoustics that it makes. Because it doesn't make any. A subwoofer produces sound pressure and vibrations at low frequencies. A wood cabinet will not help a subwoofer's sound any better. A subwoofers performance in a car is based on it's ability to reproduce a range of low frequencies accurately. A fiberglass enclosure is better suited for getting that done. Should I use the word SPANK again?
i meant flexible as in you can mold it into almost any shape =D. makes more sense when you put it that way.
anyways, having a fiberglass enclosure on the side, why didn't you face it towards the front of the car? also why would 2 12" be problematic in this situation?
anyways, having a fiberglass enclosure on the side, why didn't you face it towards the front of the car? also why would 2 12" be problematic in this situation?
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Originally Posted by LIPPSTUH
i meant flexible as in you can mold it into almost any shape =D. makes more sense when you put it that way.
anyways, having a fiberglass enclosure on the side, why didn't you face it towards the front of the car? also why would 2 12" be problematic in this situation?
anyways, having a fiberglass enclosure on the side, why didn't you face it towards the front of the car? also why would 2 12" be problematic in this situation?
Why does the subwoofer face rearward? Bass is not directional like midrange and treble. If you have a tweeter and point it staight at you it will be louder than if it were pointed away from you. Bass is the opposite. Everytime you can bounce a bass not off of a solid structure you will gain 3db. And since a subwoofer is not a "musical" speaker it makes not sense to face it toward you. If you face a subwoofer toward the rear of the trunk it will be at least 3db louder by the time you hear the bass note. You can test this by listening to your subwoofer faced back with the trunk closed. Then go around to your trunk and open it. You just took away it's reflecting surface. How hard is it hitting now?
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Originally Posted by LIPPSTUH
i see makes sense... i want to redo my trunk... 3 12" subs for a daily driver is ridiculous... they're all facing upwards... =\ thanks for the lesson =D
finally a custom made subwoofer enclosure for the cl... i use to envy all those rides that custom JL Audio enclosures were made for.
i have plans to customize a round kicker solobaric 8" were the rear seat comparment is firing downward. The sub only uses .33 cubic feet. After seeing this I have second thoughts.
i have plans to customize a round kicker solobaric 8" were the rear seat comparment is firing downward. The sub only uses .33 cubic feet. After seeing this I have second thoughts.
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Originally Posted by smooth CL-in
finally a custom made subwoofer enclosure for the cl... i use to envy all those rides that custom JL Audio enclosures were made for.
i have plans to customize a round kicker solobaric 8" were the rear seat comparment is firing downward. The sub only uses .33 cubic feet. After seeing this I have second thoughts.
i have plans to customize a round kicker solobaric 8" were the rear seat comparment is firing downward. The sub only uses .33 cubic feet. After seeing this I have second thoughts.
Originally Posted by cltypeSLOW
thanks, i wasnt aware of the pricing rules.
BTW, really nice price.
BTW, really nice price.
My local customers pay alomst double what AZ members pay for custom work. But, when I make an enclosure for a TL, CL or TSX it's much easier because I don't have their car taking up space in my shop for 3 to 5 days. Hence the lower pricing.
[QUOTE=uncald4]Yeah, you'll get much more thump out of that sub if it's in the trunk. I aching to do a nice 8" subwoofer in a custom enclosure. 8" subs are under rated. I did an enclosure in my Civic with three 6" JL Audio subs. It hit harder than most 12" subs do. Kinda wish I still had it. Most people would hear it and drool. Then I would open the trunk and they all say.... WTF?
wow 6" subs...man, i bet that sounded real clean... i'm not really into larger subs. the most i'll do it one 10". So you think subwoofer in the car is a no no? Is it best to have the sub closer to the trunk lid or back of the seat?
wow 6" subs...man, i bet that sounded real clean... i'm not really into larger subs. the most i'll do it one 10". So you think subwoofer in the car is a no no? Is it best to have the sub closer to the trunk lid or back of the seat?
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Originally Posted by smooth CL-in
wow 6" subs...man, i bet that sounded real clean... i'm not really into larger subs. the most i'll do it one 10". So you think subwoofer in the car is a no no? Is it best to have the sub closer to the trunk lid or back of the seat?
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