check your OIL lately?
#1
check your OIL lately?
roll call...
who here checks there oil regularly?
i recomend you all go check it now and report back...last time checked any noticalbe differences? last time changed...what brand ,what weight...
my car was having a problem...it would fuel cut in drive w/VSA disabled @5500 rpm bounce 2-3 times then wind out the rest of the way and shift normal... the modmole said "sounds like low oil pressure"...like he'd been there before
anyway...it was real low...just alittle on the end of the dip stick....added 2 quarts and that brought it upto the bottom hole on the dip stick...and no more fuel cut...
check your oil...
who here checks there oil regularly?
i recomend you all go check it now and report back...last time checked any noticalbe differences? last time changed...what brand ,what weight...
my car was having a problem...it would fuel cut in drive w/VSA disabled @5500 rpm bounce 2-3 times then wind out the rest of the way and shift normal... the modmole said "sounds like low oil pressure"...like he'd been there before
anyway...it was real low...just alittle on the end of the dip stick....added 2 quarts and that brought it upto the bottom hole on the dip stick...and no more fuel cut...
check your oil...
#2
Low Oil Pressure = Fuel Cut?
Please explain further:
I don't understand how low oil-pressure would cause a 'fuel-cut' ??
Usually (unless the CL-S PCM intervenes in such a manner), low oil pressure would cause one of these things:
(1) VTEC would stop actuating
(2) Might spin a rod bearing
(3) Might spin a main bearing
(4) Oil-light 'might' come on (depends on if there really is low oil or the sump is clogged in some way)
I don't understand how low oil-pressure would cause a 'fuel-cut' ??
Usually (unless the CL-S PCM intervenes in such a manner), low oil pressure would cause one of these things:
(1) VTEC would stop actuating
(2) Might spin a rod bearing
(3) Might spin a main bearing
(4) Oil-light 'might' come on (depends on if there really is low oil or the sump is clogged in some way)
#3
Down two quarts!!! How many miles on it to burn that much oil?
How many miles between changes?
Or were you stiffed on your last change?
I recall someone buying a subaru back in the mid 80s where she wanted to follow the scheduled 7500 miles between oil changes. When she told me about a clicking noise I went out and checked her oild. The car had 6000 miles on it and it was down almost 2.5 qts.
How many miles between changes?
Or were you stiffed on your last change?
I recall someone buying a subaru back in the mid 80s where she wanted to follow the scheduled 7500 miles between oil changes. When she told me about a clicking noise I went out and checked her oild. The car had 6000 miles on it and it was down almost 2.5 qts.
#4
Re: Low Oil Pressure = Fuel Cut?
Originally posted by allmotor_2000
Please explain further:
I don't understand how low oil-pressure would cause a 'fuel-cut' ??
Usually (unless the CL-S PCM intervenes in such a manner), low oil pressure would cause one of these things:
(1) VTEC would stop actuating
(2) Might spin a rod bearing
(3) Might spin a main bearing
(4) Oil-light 'might' come on (depends on if there really is low oil or the sump is clogged in some way)
Please explain further:
I don't understand how low oil-pressure would cause a 'fuel-cut' ??
Usually (unless the CL-S PCM intervenes in such a manner), low oil pressure would cause one of these things:
(1) VTEC would stop actuating
(2) Might spin a rod bearing
(3) Might spin a main bearing
(4) Oil-light 'might' come on (depends on if there really is low oil or the sump is clogged in some way)
#5
Oil vs. Fuel
If the 'cut-off' feeling is ONLY during the VTEC transition... it is possible the that its NOT a fuel-cutoff problem but some delay in the low-cam to high-cam shift because of low oil-pressure.
#6
I'm a little obsessive. I check my oil level about every 1- 2 weeks (say 10 days).
I had a problem with oil consumption during the first couple thousand miles, so since then I've paid close attention to the level. I added a quart at about 2500 miles and was down 1/2 quart at my first oil change. I've had no consumption of note in the last several thousand miles.
I'm now at 8300 miles (majority city driving) with Castrol 5W20 dino oil. I changed the oil at 3750 and 7500 miles.
I noticed that this car is real particular about checking the dip-stick. If I am not on a flat surface I'll get a false read of the oil level off by (up to) about 1/4 quart. I've checked this out several times. I've checked the oil several times on the same day and had different levels varying from 1/4 down to 1/4 too much (depending on the surface that I parked on).
Of course I do know how to check the oil level. I wait at least 5 -10 minutes for the oil to drip back into the pan, but do try to still check with the engine warm. I wish the dip-stick had little cross hatches like some other manufacturers have - it would make reading the level easier. It's sometimes hard to see this thin 5W20 oil without really good lighting.
I have learned about the particularity of the dip-stick and now am able to check my oil level without getting too paranoid about consumption. As said, I've noticed no real issue in the last several thousand miles. I think that I may have overcalled the amount of consumption early on (by 1/4 quart) because I was unfamiliar with this peculiarity of the dip-stick. It must have to do with the shape of the oil pan.
I had a problem with oil consumption during the first couple thousand miles, so since then I've paid close attention to the level. I added a quart at about 2500 miles and was down 1/2 quart at my first oil change. I've had no consumption of note in the last several thousand miles.
I'm now at 8300 miles (majority city driving) with Castrol 5W20 dino oil. I changed the oil at 3750 and 7500 miles.
I noticed that this car is real particular about checking the dip-stick. If I am not on a flat surface I'll get a false read of the oil level off by (up to) about 1/4 quart. I've checked this out several times. I've checked the oil several times on the same day and had different levels varying from 1/4 down to 1/4 too much (depending on the surface that I parked on).
Of course I do know how to check the oil level. I wait at least 5 -10 minutes for the oil to drip back into the pan, but do try to still check with the engine warm. I wish the dip-stick had little cross hatches like some other manufacturers have - it would make reading the level easier. It's sometimes hard to see this thin 5W20 oil without really good lighting.
I have learned about the particularity of the dip-stick and now am able to check my oil level without getting too paranoid about consumption. As said, I've noticed no real issue in the last several thousand miles. I think that I may have overcalled the amount of consumption early on (by 1/4 quart) because I was unfamiliar with this peculiarity of the dip-stick. It must have to do with the shape of the oil pan.
#7
BTW, most manufacturers consider 1 quart oil consumption/1000 miles acceptable. Although I would find this unacceptable, it's been an issue with some VW engines and others. You should check your level at each gas fill-up (the manual says so!).
I spoke to a couple service managers and they we're not concerned as it was a new engine. They thought it was just on the high end of normal break-in consumption. They just wanted me to monitor it and not add oil unless it got below the bottom dot. As said, my close monitoring has shown me that the consumption stopped.
I spoke to a couple service managers and they we're not concerned as it was a new engine. They thought it was just on the high end of normal break-in consumption. They just wanted me to monitor it and not add oil unless it got below the bottom dot. As said, my close monitoring has shown me that the consumption stopped.
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#8
well this is my first oil since the 3.5L and it is mineral...it's only been about 4-5k miles... and allmotor i suppose it could be the attempt to transition but it was exactly like fuel cut...
#11
Originally posted by typeR
well this is my first oil since the 3.5L and it is mineral...it's only been about 4-5k miles... and allmotor i suppose it could be the attempt to transition but it was exactly like fuel cut...
well this is my first oil since the 3.5L and it is mineral...it's only been about 4-5k miles... and allmotor i suppose it could be the attempt to transition but it was exactly like fuel cut...
Keep an eye on it and hopefully the consumption will stop like mine did.
#12
Fresh motor vs. Oil Change
I am sure you guys know this... but there is a BIG difference in the amount of oil a motor takes when its brand new vs. just a regular oil change.
There is usually a plate under the crankshaft (most high-output Honda motors have it). It is to keep the journals lubricated at all times... even when starting (before the oil-pump starts working). When you drain the oil... this oil doesn't quite empty. So, on a new motor... you have to fill quite a bit more oil.
Now... on a new motor there is always some burnoff while the rings seat. This is usually not too bad if the honing and the assembly was good... but its still present.
I would find 1 quart/1000 miles TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE unless you have a turbocharged high-output motor (and I mean 400hp or more!!)
Some high-revving motors tend to have more blow-by at high rpms... but ours is only a 7200rpm motor, so that should be an issue either. If you put a breather on your crankcase vent... you can easily check if you have blow-by. By the way.. blow-by is bad under most circumstances - its a dead giveaway that your rings are going!
There is usually a plate under the crankshaft (most high-output Honda motors have it). It is to keep the journals lubricated at all times... even when starting (before the oil-pump starts working). When you drain the oil... this oil doesn't quite empty. So, on a new motor... you have to fill quite a bit more oil.
Now... on a new motor there is always some burnoff while the rings seat. This is usually not too bad if the honing and the assembly was good... but its still present.
I would find 1 quart/1000 miles TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE unless you have a turbocharged high-output motor (and I mean 400hp or more!!)
Some high-revving motors tend to have more blow-by at high rpms... but ours is only a 7200rpm motor, so that should be an issue either. If you put a breather on your crankcase vent... you can easily check if you have blow-by. By the way.. blow-by is bad under most circumstances - its a dead giveaway that your rings are going!
#13
So, Allmotor, what would you consider normal new engine oil consumption for this car? My 1 to 1 1/2 quarts worried me but the Acura dudes didn't even blink. It does seem to have stopped.
I got that 1 qt/1000 miles when I was researching oil consumption. I found that a lot of people with a certain VW (I forgot which one - Jetta?) were having significant problems with consumption and they were getting shit from the manufacturer because it was no more then 1 qt/1000 miles. I also found that Acura has the same stance, but I don't think I'd accept that either.
Remember Kendall oil? The 2000 mile oil!
I got that 1 qt/1000 miles when I was researching oil consumption. I found that a lot of people with a certain VW (I forgot which one - Jetta?) were having significant problems with consumption and they were getting shit from the manufacturer because it was no more then 1 qt/1000 miles. I also found that Acura has the same stance, but I don't think I'd accept that either.
Remember Kendall oil? The 2000 mile oil!
#14
First, There is an Low Oil Pressure sensor on the CLS.. Just look at the dashboard.. it's the little thing that looks like an Oiler lamp.
Now, if you do lose Oil as I my CLS did... There is a bad news.. First, here is a TSB for oil loss.. The worst, you may need a a new lower block...
However, Vtec not engagine and the cut-off at 5500 rpm is totally another story.. take it to the dealer ASAP!
Now, if you do lose Oil as I my CLS did... There is a bad news.. First, here is a TSB for oil loss.. The worst, you may need a a new lower block...
However, Vtec not engagine and the cut-off at 5500 rpm is totally another story.. take it to the dealer ASAP!
#17
Originally posted by BC
Hey Slimey, it would be pretty easy to score the crosshatch pattern on the dipstick with edge of a jewelers file, or a scriber.
Hey Slimey, it would be pretty easy to score the crosshatch pattern on the dipstick with edge of a jewelers file, or a scriber.
#19
Low Oil
You really have to lose a LOT of oil to do big damage to the motor... something like clogging up the sump even though you have a lot of oil will probably do more damage.
If the oil isn't leaking somewhere... its being combusted and let out through the exhaust.
Sometimes a good test is to start the car when its not quite warmed up and have someone stand behind while you floor it a bit - look for the wonderful 'white' smoke!
Other tests would be a leakdown test (which is more comprehensive than a simple compression test).
While 1 quart/1000 miles is not really the norm... I wouldn't rebuild the motor just for that! Try some RESTORE first
If the oil isn't leaking somewhere... its being combusted and let out through the exhaust.
Sometimes a good test is to start the car when its not quite warmed up and have someone stand behind while you floor it a bit - look for the wonderful 'white' smoke!
Other tests would be a leakdown test (which is more comprehensive than a simple compression test).
While 1 quart/1000 miles is not really the norm... I wouldn't rebuild the motor just for that! Try some RESTORE first
#23
LOL, I have seen someone pull both dipsticks at once (tranny and oil) then stick em back in wrong...I was Almost as good as that Jiffy Lube commercial where they have pulled the dipstick from the car in the AD...(at least I think I saw that it was pulled) and the two guys are looking for it.
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