before i give my car to my kids
i don't want the little fockers racing
any thoughts or opinions

"mean dad"

 

Dude! You should have told me! I'd have traded in my bad-actuator CL for your's!

But seriously, I'm GUESSING that you could take a look at the TL board FAQ. They have instructions on which wires the ECU uses to send the "vtec-on" signal. If you just snip those wires...

NOTE: I'm talking outta my ass here. You might wanna buy health insurance before taking my advice. :P

 

Close D73,

In a nutshell, the actuator is triggered mechanically, while the VTEC is triggered electronically by ECU

As for making your car slower, get them a TL

 

Kavex is right. There's a little cable that pulls on the actuator. But I thought that if the ECU didn't send the signal, then the actuator wouldn't get opened... Or is it two separate things? Damn, I'm confused now. Gotta go home and break out the Helm's...

 

Open up the engine compartment. ON the actuator itself, there is a power plug, pull it out. Actuator, no longer powered

 

This reminds me of the valet mode on the old Corvette ZR-1's...

IMHO, deactivating the actuator won't stop them from racing, just winning.

 

Which really just starves the engine of airflow at high rpms and that can't be good on the engine. You'd be better off getting something that kills the VTEC engagement signal so it never switches cam lobes. That would do a lot more to kill the performance.

 

 

I've been looking for something like that myself. i want something that can limit how high you can rev the engine. I want to set mine to 3500 rpm or lower to save gas and make sure noone abuses it when driving it around.

 

I don't think thats a wise choice, you never know when you have to outrun something/someone and what if you're climbing a hill? Better to have that power around just in case.

It's better to leave your gear in D5 to save gas, rather than tune your car differently to save fuel in my opinion. And if you already do that, just alter your driving habits. Control Mr. Leadfoot and you won't be reaching the high rpm's as often.

 

I'll tell you how to install headers for em

 

thanks all, pulling the plug sounds good and i am getting myself a TL

 

I'm gonna drive around long island looking for your car and when I see your kids driving it I'm gonna pull em over and reconnect the actuator for em

 

yeah, you can see the plug in the pics on the FAQ

 

WHy would you even bother? A non-functioning actuator is only going to kill a little bit of power anywas. I remember driving around when mine was bad and all it did was take a little longer to get into VTEC.

 

How to *reduce* power from the CLS:

The ECU/PCM has a VTEC signal and VTM solenoid line. There is a VTI/VTO (VTEC In / VTEC Out) wire in the PCM/ECU wiring harness. By severing the connection of the VTEC line it will disable VTEC engagement.

Basically the way VTEC engages (*greatly simplified*) is that the ECU/PCM monitors the engine RPM (line voltage) and once it approaches the engagement point it also takes an oil pressure reading (make sure adequate oil pressure exists to engage the hot cams) providing all specs are within acceptable tolerance the VTEC line activates the VTEC solenoid to *pop* the larger cam lobes into position.

By severing the VTEC wire the ECU/PCM will attempt VTEC engagment, perform oil pressure check, etc... and then fail to engage the VTEC solenoid. The result will be a vehicle that will not utilize the High Cams (VTEC), but consequently you will also throw a DTC (VTEC Engagement Failure *forgot the actual code #*) and youll drive around with a "Check Engine" light always on. This could be inherently bad as you may throw another DTC and never know it becuase the light is always on....

If you want more info on the ECU/PCM wiring harness diagram Private Mail me. I wouldnt really suggest doing this however. Rather a better approach would be to purchase the overpriced Apex-i V-AFC (VTEC CONTROLLER) do a stealth mount somewhere above the ECU and use that to set the VTEC engagement point to be say ohhhh about 6800 RPM.

Killing the power to the IMRC will work a bit also, but it will throw short and long term fuel mapping out of whack...


Just my .02

 

I've noticed since my actuator broke that my gas mileage has been horrible.
I was wondering if there's a connection.
2 tanks around 250mi instead of the usual 290-300mi

 

the v-afc would be the best choise, esp since you wouldnt be driving around with the check engine light lit all the time.

just hope that the kids dont find the v-afc and the pdf* file that will tell them how to lower the vtec engagement point and adjust the fuel curve

 

Probably...

The resonance helps to move air into the engine and efficiency, with it down and with a reduced amount of torque at lower speeds, you would need to move to higher engine speeds to get the "same" power (and this hurts gas mileage)...


Hey, reverse the actuator signal (with an inverter) and that should be good for power reduction and bad gas mileage....

 

You can choose from:


HAI (Hot Air Intake).

Exhaust restrictor (just stuff some steel wool in the tail pipes, that 'll slow it down).

Adjust the throttle cable, so it only opens up the throttle 1/2 way with the gas pedal fully depressed!