EricL

Having returned from a an install, I can say that the AEM CAI (and I presume the others) are very loud. I must admit the noise at WOT is wonderful, but I think the sound (in conjunction with the headers) is a great "I'm coming announcer".

Boy, if any constables are sitting on an overpass, which they sure do (I would), they can hear the car coming a mile away. And they sure will think the thing is hauling ass.

Was just curious if any other CAI users had thoughts about the "wonderful" growl and the hear from a mile away factor?

------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines ordered
• Comptech headers & sways ready
• Silver AEM CAI ready
• 8 coats of Zaino magic

[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 04-26-2001).]

spiroh

Ill definately tell you when I get them installed on Tue =) My integ sounded bad ass w/ the AEM CAI.

------------------
Black/Black 2001 CL-S
RED AEM CAI
Polarg M6 Roadlamps

Nashua_Night_Hawk

Since, I am in my car how would I find that the CAI is too loud, I think, when the engine is warm and just crusing on the HW at 2-2.5Krpm, it sounds like stock. now going WOT on the HW is yeah , your annoucer, here I come... laze me

------------------
Black, Ebony, 3.2 CL Type-S, NAV.
- 3M clear bra, by Stonguard (full front bumper, and side mirrors, and partial hood)
- Acura Spoiler, Moonroof visor
- Splash guards, Winter mats, Trunk liner
- Valentine V1 Radar Locator
- HELMS Service Manual
- PIAA 19169 road lamps
- 03/19/01: Injen Polished CAI
- 04/13/01: 235/40/18 NITTO 555 on 18x7.5, +45 offset, Koing Imagine in Silver with wheels locks

EricL

I was actually wondering if anybody who had them had been pulled over for noise. Or if a policeman said, "hey, I could hear you a mile away..."

Don't get me wrong, the sound is wonderful and the power from the header and CAI is great.

I also heard the "hiss" everyone is talking about during "shutdown" -- I can live with that. I am glad I "lurk" here, 'cause I first thought something was amiss...


------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines ordered
• Comptech headers & sways ready
• Silver AEM CAI ready
• 8 coats of Zaino magic

EricL

No, your right, it is very sedate at "reasonable" power outputs, its just the WOT sounds like 2x my old double sidedrafts with velocity stacks @ 8500 rpm.



------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines ordered
• Comptech headers & sways ready
• Silver AEM CAI ready
• 8 coats of Zaino magic

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

I love the sound when you shut the car down. It's like "UGH, do I really have to stop now? I was having sooo much fun."

The sound is such sweet music. WOT is where you wanna be all the time. Summertime when everyone has their windows down, and you floor it. Gotta love it.

------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation

• 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
• Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
• Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
• A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
• Denso Iridium Plugs
• Mugen Grill
• Inspire Tail Lights
• Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
• Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm w/SmartWindows II
• Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
• BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
• Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
• 20% tint

My Ride

typeR

erikl did you install bypass valve???where do you cut and do you just cut inhalf or do you take acouple inches off to account for the added length of the valve itself???im gettin mine tommowrrow id appreciate if you or anyone else thatll be around 6-7 est incase i need some on the fly instalation tips...

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'01 3.2 CL typeS
satin silver metalic
Llumar platinum plus
tint 20% all around

-----------------
'98 ACCORD V-6 sedan
16" coupe wheels
215/55/16 nitto's
20% smoke titanium
black chrome kit

H@mmerm@n

I just got the AEM CAI installed Monday, after having the Comptech headers on for about four weeks and the Comptech exhaust for about two weeks. I've been loving the overall sound, especially the lovely burble of the exhaust. And then I left the dealer after having the CAI installed and went to WOT on the onramp accelerating to the freeway and VTEC hits and - OMFG - holy sh1t - it sounds like I'm driving a stock car at Talladega! Absolutely a wonderful rush!

------------------
Mike
2001 Satin Silver CL-S
Comptech headers, exhaust, sways
AEM CAI (Red)
PIAA 19169 road lamps
Member of NO SCRATCHED RIMS club!

"Never underestimate the power of a dark CLown!" - Darph Bobo

GoldTypeS_RENAMED

I was wondering the same thing. And quite frankly, I'm a little worried about that. We'll see... I'm just hoping for the best.

majeed

The noise is not that big of a deal. The more you accelerate the more air it sucks in the cai, thus causing more sound. I can imagine in SS mode, downshifting, or reving high before shift. It'll sound like a jet. Don't worry, cops can't hear it.

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Confused Individual

EricL

I talked to the dealer about this, and they said they would help me out before winter. I told them I need to get a Bypass in before winter *and* I will take the "pipe" to a machine shop/metal-fab shop and have someone do a really clean cut, deburr and cleaning. I want to talk to AEM about where the best place would be to cut the sucker.

The dealer may just do it for me. Outside of a loose allen key/tie-rod on the sways, the job looked to be first rate. So, now that all of the junk is out-of-the way, and CAI and header are DONE, I can start figuring this out

If you need to do this now, I can't help you now. But I am going to start calling AEM and getting everything planned by later next week..

If you do it first, will you let me know what the scoop is to save on duplicate effort?

BTW -- I was thinking that due to the perfect fit WITHOUT the AEM, it might be a very good idea to cut a small section out vs just cutting the pipe in two.



------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 9 coats of Zaino magic

Henry

Hey EricL, I was thinking of getting the Comptech headers and maybe the sways. Where did you get them from and how much did you pay for them and how much for installation? Thanks alot.

------------------
'01 Acura CL Type S
Xephyr CAI, Wheel Locks, 30% Metallic Tint All Around

EricL

I got the headers from Tim (before the rapacious rate increase).
I got the sways fro Tim.
(Also got the AEM CAI from Tim)

For material pricing, go to:

www.autocarparts.com


I went to Keyes today for the install. I did some bargaining, and got the whole mess installed along with an oil change for $363.00 (tax, waste handling fees, etc)

The basic quote was:

$220 labor for the headers
$75 for the sways.

I used Alan Glass -- he is a nice guy, tell him I recommended him. He said that they WANT the business *and* are happy to install the parts. I did find a small noise and they fixed it for me within about 15 minutes.
It is working great. You will have to provide your own rental car, or get a ride, they do not provide a "loaner" unless a car needs to stay more than 24hours.

I did inspect the install, and the headers and CAI were done very nicely. And all of the old stuff was packed up perfectly (Thanks go to WebToker and his pictures -- they enjoyed the pictures of WebToker's box of OEM headers packed up in the Comptech box! -- they packed my original stuff for transport home perfectly)




------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 9 coats of Zaino magic

Satin Slayer

That's exactly what you're supposed to do. If you flip through the AEM instruction pages that are stapled together, you'll notice on the last page(?) that it's just a simple diagram. Basically, it's just a very long and narrow rectangle almost the length of the page. Cut along the line to remove that rectangle from the page. You'll end up with a long strip of paper. The width of the paper strip is how much you need to cut off of the pipe. Just wrap the paper strip around the pipe(where the bypass valve will be located), tape it and cut along both sides of the paper strip. Save yourself the money and just do it yourself. It should take about 10 minutes with a hacksaw(I couldn't find a pipe cutter big enough). Be very careful so you don't mess up. After that, just take some steel wool/sandpaper to smooth out the edge. As for deburring, I just ran a dry towel through it and used my hair dryer to blow air through the pipe to be extra sure...repeated a couple times to be extra, extra sure. Fits like a glove and no problems with the AEM CAI/bypass valve since installation(early March)




[This message has been edited by Satin Slayer (edited 04-27-2001).]

EricL

I will have to look through the plastic bag for the bits. I may do it myself... I need some fresh hacksaws, and I want to get a mitre/guide box to insure a clean straight cut. I have a ton of fine sandpaper (2000 wet -- to about 300 grit), so I guess I could just do it. Once the "junk" is out of the way, it doesn't look to hard to get at the stuff. I was almost considering wiping it down with a tack rag after all to get any last little bits of engine killing bits.

I will have to "crawl" back through the boxes and find the stuff you mentioned.

Thanks for the tip!


------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 9 coats of Zaino magic

Satin Slayer

Actually, tape isn't the best way to go about it. I remember the hacksaw constantly catching on the tape and tearing the paper strip. I think it would be better to glue the paper strip onto the pipe. Don't worry about glue residue on that strip of the pipe since you're gonna throw that out anyways.

EricL

I need to find the AEM stuff -- I just looked in the bag of "paper work" they returned to me, and no AEM instructions, only decals for the windows (nice)...




------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 9 coats of Zaino magic

MYTYPES

I ordered my CAI & bypass valve yesterday. You guys are making me impatient. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

------------------
***2001 Acura 3.2 CL, Type-S***
Satin Silver w/ Ebony Leather.
Navigation System, Factory spoiler, LoJack, Moonroof visor, Factory blackwood trim, PIAA wedge-bulbs (ion yellow/#19173), 50% tint, K&N high flow air filter(#33-2178).

***AEM CAI, Comptech exhaust/springs & rims/tires tires TBA***

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

That sucks (no pun intended) about having to cut the CAI. The TL's CAI is a two piece unit. I just removed the rubber sleeve that connects the two pieces and slipped in the bypass valve.

You'd think they'd make them all two piece considering most people opt for the bypass anyway, and I'm sure AEM would want everyone to get it.

------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation

• 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
• Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
• Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
• A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
• Denso Iridium Plugs
• Mugen Grill
• Inspire Tail Lights
• Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
• Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm w/SmartWindows II
• Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
• BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
• Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
• 20% tint

My Ride

Dizzy

Once again..been there done all that. Here's the link giving you all even more insight.

http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...9&pagenumber=1

My opinion about the bypass valve?

It's a money making gimmick by AEM...pure and simple. They're playing upon everyones fear of hydrolocking their engine based on ppls experience with their civics and integras.

Since I've had my Accord V6 from Dec 1997, had the AEM CAI installed in spring 1998, I've NEVER had a problem w/ the rain/snow/ice/sleet/hail/heavy splashing.

You know why? Take it look at where its located. 1) there's already a plastic piece that covers the bottom of the front part of the car and your bumper, protecting the filterhead from major splashing.

2) You'd have to almost completely immerse your filterhead in water for quite awhile before it'll build up enough pressure to suck water into your engine at that 45+degree angle.

3) You'd have to drive through a flood road with a water lever higher than half your tire in order to get that kind of pressure...then you'd be angle deep in water yourself!!!!

4) You shouldn't be driving through floods anyways.

So tell me...what kind of conditions are you gonna be driving through? I live in DC area and we've had tons of rain for the past 3 years. I've driving through 1 tropical storm, lots of sleet and rain, and gone through plenty of puddles with major splashes and have never had trouble w/ hydrolock. It's all about common sense folks. No one on my Accord V6 forum has EVER hydrolocked their engine from the CAI. In fact during the lifetime of our car, we've only heard one single report of an Accord V6 hydrolocking...and this bright kid was trying to cross a flooded road with the water going up to his knees during a hurricane in Florida. Common sense ppl.

So save your money and the hassle of the bypass valve. You don't need it unless you intend to be driving in those conditions. Only people who live in areas prone to flooding should be getting the bypass valve. Everyone else will be giving donations to AEM.

Dizzy

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Dizzy,

Nothing personal, but if $50 gives us piece of mind, so be it. If the valve cost over $100 I'd give it some thought, but $50 is nothing for my piece of mind. Even if it does nothing, I feel better.

------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation

• 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
• Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
• Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
• A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
• Denso Iridium Plugs
• Mugen Grill
• Inspire Tail Lights
• Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
• Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm w/SmartWindows II
• Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
• BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
• Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
• 20% tint

My Ride

2Sxy4YoMama

They will not pull you over for something stupid like. They are more likely to pulling you over for having your system on too loud.

------------------
2001 CL-S Satin Silver/Ebnoy

• Spoiler/moonroof visor/20% Tint
• PIAA 19173/19170
• Mobil 1 Oil/Oil Filter
• X-Pel/Upgrade Cup Holder
• Clifford G4 Solaris Remote Start Car Alarm
• AEM CAI/Denso Iridium Spark

On its way: Comptech Sway Bar/Brake Line/WS Apexi Coilover/AEM Pulley

EricL

I live in Los Angeles. This winter there were parts of LA and the Valley were the intersections were overflowing the curbs. We are talking river boat time. So, would I drive through like some moron at 80 MPH -- no. However, there would have been a very good chance of getting the water up to the low part of the bumper.

I was up last night inspecting the work, and know exactly where the intake is sitting. I put my hand right on the flap behind the bumper. If I had the intake on, and had driven through the intersections, I would sucked in a ton of water.

So, my metro area is growing like crazy, and the folks that run the place aren't adding enough flood capacity for the amount of infrastructure. So, I've personally seen water rising to our filter level *and* I don't like spending extra cash. But, hydro-lock is not a joke *and* an new engine is a lot more $$$ than a stupid bypass valve.

BTW -- yes, they should have pre-cut the bypass space and included the hose and hose clamps.




------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 9 coats of Zaino magic

juice

Did anyone ever check to see if the filter is getting wet. I installed an AEM CAI. When I went to clean my car I looked under just to see what had happened. The filter was soak. Has anyone else ever noticed this. I seems like the water from under the hood is channled to drop right over the top of it.

FDao

Juice,

I had the same problem with my Lude Si with an AEM CAI. I remedied that problem by using Dynomat sheets, or whatever sticky sheets you prefer, cutting it into an oval shape that'll fit over the hole, with a hole in the middle of the sheet for the CAI. I made it so that the middle hole hugs the CAI.

------------------
Frank
01-S White/Parchment
Comptech Sways & Springs

juice

I had already done that, but I did not silicon it done. I don't think that will be a fix. There are several ways that it can get there. I do not want to risk the engine for the performance I got. I will probably just get a drop in.

Achance

You need the by-pass valve. I live about an 1 1/2hr south of dc. And I use to have an AEM on my hybrid and I have stalled the engine before. It was raining really hard and large puddles formed and driving through the puddles splashed enough water onto the filter that it sucked up enough water to stall the engine. Luckily I knew when driving through puddles drop it to netural and take your foot off the gas. So your not sucking in alot of air. Also don't forget alot of the cars here are lowered so they are 2" closer to the puddles than a normal car. And one day I decided to drive my car around in the rain and then take off the AEM and see how wet it was. Well there was a stream of water all the way up the pipe and inside the T/b was wet. You could see all the red oil from the filter all over the T/b plate. So it is definitly worth $50 for the bypass.

------------------
I think we are all driving the Civic Si's big brother.

juice

The bypass valve only works if you submerge the filter in water. It does not prevent water from coming through the filter. If you sink you front end, yes it will help. If you filter gets damp, it will just suck the water through with the air. Anly water in the engine is not good. It would be the same as gettin g water in your gas. PING, PANG, BOOM. I love my car to much to take this risk. Sure i could rig it up to prevent this, but that should have been taken into consideration when it was developed.