So i was racing my friend's g35 with i/h/e and were neck and neck until the end of 3rd but suddenly when i try to pop it into 4th it doesnt go in. After that i decide stop and slow down and as i come to a light my clutch pedal is feeling very loose. So as i start to try and drive off again my clutch seems like its not engaging and is slipping a lot. Even when i shift from 1st to 2nd i have to put all my strength into it and try to shift with the clutch down. So im guessin i f*ked up my clutch and need a new one. My question is i know that this is my fault for driving my car too hard in the past and now but I'm wondering if i could still get the dealer to some how fix it under warranty. I have 25,xxx miles on it right now. Anyone have any suggestions or know anything i can do? Thanks in advance.

 

also if lets say i was to end up paying for all this anyone know how much parts and labor cost would be?

 

Im not familiar w/the mechanics of a 2nd gen CL.. but a couple months back, my 97 CL had a similar problem. Would press clutch down and it went soft all the way, and I couldn't get into any gear.

Thought I had to replace the clutch, turns out it was a leak in the slave/master clutch cylinder...

Like I said, I'm not familiar w/2nd gen mechanics, but perhaps it may be something like this.

good luck,
-Alex

 

i would assume parts and labor to run about $700 or so. I currently have a 6 puk race clutch on my car but only driven w/ that clutch for about ~100 miles. If you want I can give you the contact info of the company that made mine as they do make "lighter" clutches.

The dealership should cover it, if one doesnt try others around.

 

is yours a 2nd generation cl?

 

at least $ 850 and a couple of days to wait ..........

no mooooore lead foot

 

would i be better off just ordering the part and having it installed at the dealer or somewhere else? and also i guess theres no way warranty will cover this?

 

sounds like a leak

 

Yeah if your pedal is hard to press down or the pedal is way loose. Sounds like a clutch master cylinder/fluid/leak problem. If your clutch was bad you would be able to get in gear fine, just your RPM's would be high & the car wouldn't move very much in each gear. Check your fluid in the reservoir, & also get under the car & see if you can see any leaks.

 

well when i start my car right off the bat and go it seems like my clutch is normal but as i start driving and try to shift my pedal all of sudden gets loose and then really hard in the end and i have trouble putting my car in the next gear. when i finally get the car in gear i would let go of the clutch and i would be gassing my car but it seems like my car didnt catch the gear and all of a sudden the clutch will jump back and my car would give out a little jerk and i would start going. you guys still think its just a master cylinder/fluid/leak problem? and btw where would the fluid container be located?

 

If you burnt it, you probably would have slowly felt the slipping more and more, not while shifting from 2 to 3. Did you check your oil?

 

Drivers side of engine bay near the windshield. Little white/yellow cylinder thing with fluid.

 

hmm its too dark too see anything and i cant find a flash light so i guess ill have to check tom.

 

well i think i may have burnt it out pretty bad while racing trying to get into 4th

 

what are your suggestions...should i get factory new clutch or go for comptech clutch setup or is there another company i may have overlooked?

 

i'd go with comptech, i am assuming it is stronger than factory and adds some performance improvements. i wouldn't go with a 3rd party setup other than a big name like comptech. comptech takes time to do research and specializes in acuras, so it seems like a good choice.

 

Except for the fact that allmotor broke 4 of the Comptech clutches and others have had them fail during normal driving/in traffic.

The OEM clutch is fine and i'd stick with it. The Comptech clutch/flywheel is far from proven.

 

To be honest, it was 3

In any case, all Comptech replaces is the clutch-disk and flywheel - they use the factory pressure-plate. It's a good combination but I am not sure how tough it is. It has still not been proven to be a Comptech issue or something particular to my application. Personally, I think the stock flywheel takes a brunt of the initial impact (dual-mass design)... but swapping it to the aluminum one tranfers that impact to the next thing in-line... the pressure-plate.

If someone comes up with a strong clutch that utilizes the factory fly-wheel, I'll be all over that!

 

Ram,

Weren't you using the lightweight UR crank in addition to the Comptech flywheel/clutch? Maybe that was TOO much weight removed off the drivetrain.

 

that is what I thought. is there anyone else who has had the comptech setup for sometime?

 

There's a few. There is no proof really that the pullies were the cause. It's a denfinite maybe though. Only way to really know is to test it out. And all the $$ invloved with that makes it unlikely.

I'd stay with a stock unit. It's already been proven the stock clutch holds up well even under high power loads

 

Yes, but think about it.... if there is so much weight off the drivetrain, the crank should be the first think to go, i.e. the main bearings. Why on earth would the pressure-plate snap?

One of Comptech's theories was some sort of vibration that caused that piece to snap.... if there is so much vibration, how did my main bearings last through that?!

I think its because of the impact with the single-mass flywheel.... the pressure-plate twists and couldn't handle it. The weak-link is the pressure-plate.

 

ok, Here's the deal
I have had mine replaced. Expect roughly 1,200.00 at your dealer. It is labor intensive and requires special tools to perform the swap. I priced aftermarket clutches and fly wheels and decided the extra $ was not worth it. Good luck.

 

wat parts did u have to buy??

 

If you truly burned your clutch, you will need:
1) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) Throw out Bearing

 

holy crap sounds like its going to run me some big bucks

 

I changed out my clutch with the Comptech lightweight flywheel and friction disk when they replaced my rear main seal. If I remember correctly, labor would have been around $800. Parts through Carland at this site:
Carland
1) $453.48 (list = $533.51) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) $301.18 (list = $354.33) for Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) $33.54 (list=$39.46)Throw out Bearing

Flywheel cannot be resurfaced because of the "Dual Mass" design.

 

does it smell like clutch?

that would be the first sign that it isnt just a fluid issue

 

so if i ended up paying this out of my own pocket im assuming id be better off taking it somewhere else where they know how to install new clutches and etc right?

 

actually no i didnt smell anything. i know what the smell of a burnt clutch is and its very strong yet i didnt smell even the littest scent of it which is why im hoping its something else other than a burnt clutch. well ill be taking it in tom mornin or actually in a couple of hours to have it checked out.

 

Yep that's the whole kit,
Clutch
throw out bearing
presure plate
The kit is right at $430.00 roughly. This job was labor intensive though. It required dropping the tranny out of the car. I would highly recommend taking it to a dealer you trust. I stress dealer you trust, because my dealer said I was the first person to have the clutch replaced and it would be a learning experience. I know the shop manager so I made sure he did the work personally.

 

Did you ever check to see if the clutch fluid reservoir still has fluid?

 

If the clutch master cylinder went bad you might not lose any fluid and it still wouldn't release the clutch when you depressed it.

How can you tell if the clutch master cylinder is bad though??? Or do you just ask the dealer to check it?

 

Dude, just take the car to the dealer you use for all of your other services.

 

Alright well i just got a call back from the dealer and they told me my pressure plate is basically worn out. They said this isn't covered by warranty because it still is a wear and tear issue. Is this true? I thought if pressure plates went bad they would crack or something not wear out. They to get this fixed ill have to get a new clutch set and possibly a new flywheel if they can't resurface it and will run me something like $1400++. Any suggestion guys or possible ways where i can fight my way around this and have it covered by warranty or the dealer? This is just a ton of money and I find it odd that im about to hi 26k miles on the car and my pressure plate goes bad and it's not like im a horrible driver or race every other weekend.

 

Really one of those things where someone needs to ride in the car with you. I have friends who insist that downshifting and feathuring the clutch is ok. I have one friend who double clutches his poor Acura.

Really sounds like a driving style issue. i have owned several Manual Acuras and never had issues like that

Good luck.

 

i burnt my clutch one night.. it cost 1700 parts and labor at teh acura dealership to get fixed.

 

same prob as me... 1700 to fix. 2 days

 

so all i would need to do is get the new clutch set right? i dont need to buy a new flywheel or anything do i? im thinkin since the dealer is going to overcharge my ass i was going to have it taken to another body shop which also specializes in tranny work and have it installed there. my friend with his rsx got his new clutch installed there and seemed to have done a great job.

 

Good luck...