burned out my clutch! Help!
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burned out my clutch! Help!
So i was racing my friend's g35 with i/h/e and were neck and neck until the end of 3rd but suddenly when i try to pop it into 4th it doesnt go in. After that i decide stop and slow down and as i come to a light my clutch pedal is feeling very loose. So as i start to try and drive off again my clutch seems like its not engaging and is slipping a lot. Even when i shift from 1st to 2nd i have to put all my strength into it and try to shift with the clutch down. So im guessin i f*ked up my clutch and need a new one. My question is i know that this is my fault for driving my car too hard in the past and now but I'm wondering if i could still get the dealer to some how fix it under warranty. I have 25,xxx miles on it right now. Anyone have any suggestions or know anything i can do? Thanks in advance.
#3
how handsome I am
Originally Posted by koolmonkey999
So i was racing my friend's g35 with i/h/e and were neck and neck until the end of 3rd but suddenly when i try to pop it into 4th it doesnt go in. After that i decide stop and slow down and as i come to a light my clutch pedal is feeling very loose. So as i start to try and drive off again my clutch seems like its not engaging and is slipping a lot. Even when i shift from 1st to 2nd i have to put all my strength into it and try to shift with the clutch down. So im guessin i f*ked up my clutch and need a new one. My question is i know that this is my fault for driving my car too hard in the past and now but I'm wondering if i could still get the dealer to some how fix it under warranty. I have 25,xxx miles on it right now. Anyone have any suggestions or know anything i can do? Thanks in advance.
Thought I had to replace the clutch, turns out it was a leak in the slave/master clutch cylinder...
Like I said, I'm not familiar w/2nd gen mechanics, but perhaps it may be something like this.
good luck,
-Alex
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i would assume parts and labor to run about $700 or so. I currently have a 6 puk race clutch on my car but only driven w/ that clutch for about ~100 miles. If you want I can give you the contact info of the company that made mine as they do make "lighter" clutches.
The dealership should cover it, if one doesnt try others around.
The dealership should cover it, if one doesnt try others around.
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Originally Posted by Habib
i would assume parts and labor to run about $700 or so. I currently have a 6 puk race clutch on my car but only driven w/ that clutch for about ~100 miles. If you want I can give you the contact info of the company that made mine as they do make "lighter" clutches.
The dealership should cover it, if one doesnt try others around.
The dealership should cover it, if one doesnt try others around.
#6
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Originally Posted by koolmonkey999
So i was racing my friend's g35 with i/h/e and were neck and neck until the end of 3rd but suddenly when i try to pop it into 4th it doesnt go in. After that i decide stop and slow down and as i come to a light my clutch pedal is feeling very loose. So as i start to try and drive off again my clutch seems like its not engaging and is slipping a lot. Even when i shift from 1st to 2nd i have to put all my strength into it and try to shift with the clutch down. So im guessin i f*ked up my clutch and need a new one. My question is i know that this is my fault for driving my car too hard in the past and now but I'm wondering if i could still get the dealer to some how fix it under warranty. I have 25,xxx miles on it right now. Anyone have any suggestions or know anything i can do? Thanks in advance.
at least $ 850 and a couple of days to wait ..........
no mooooore lead foot
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would i be better off just ordering the part and having it installed at the dealer or somewhere else? and also i guess theres no way warranty will cover this?
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Originally Posted by agranado
. Would press clutch down and it went soft all the way, and I couldn't get into any gear.
Thought I had to replace the clutch, turns out it was a leak in the slave/master clutch cylinder...
Thought I had to replace the clutch, turns out it was a leak in the slave/master clutch cylinder...
#9
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Yeah if your pedal is hard to press down or the pedal is way loose. Sounds like a clutch master cylinder/fluid/leak problem. If your clutch was bad you would be able to get in gear fine, just your RPM's would be high & the car wouldn't move very much in each gear. Check your fluid in the reservoir, & also get under the car & see if you can see any leaks.
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Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Yeah if your pedal is hard to press down or the pedal is way loose. Sounds like a clutch master cylinder/fluid/leak problem. If your clutch was bad you would be able to get in gear fine, just your RPM's would be high & the car wouldn't move very much in each gear. Check your fluid in the reservoir, & also get under the car & see if you can see any leaks.
#11
I
Originally Posted by Smitty
sounds like a leak
If you burnt it, you probably would have slowly felt the slipping more and more, not while shifting from 2 to 3. Did you check your oil?
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Originally Posted by FastAcura
If you burnt it, you probably would have slowly felt the slipping more and more, not while shifting from 2 to 3. Did you check your oil?
#16
Originally Posted by koolmonkey999
what are your suggestions...should i get factory new clutch or go for comptech clutch setup or is there another company i may have overlooked?
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Originally Posted by Moodist
i'd go with comptech, i am assuming it is stronger than factory and adds some performance improvements. i wouldn't go with a 3rd party setup other than a big name like comptech. comptech takes time to do research and specializes in acuras, so it seems like a good choice.
Except for the fact that allmotor broke 4 of the Comptech clutches and others have had them fail during normal driving/in traffic.
The OEM clutch is fine and i'd stick with it. The Comptech clutch/flywheel is far from proven.
#18
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Except for the fact that allmotor broke 4 of the Comptech clutches and others have had them fail during normal driving/in traffic.
The OEM clutch is fine and i'd stick with it. The Comptech clutch/flywheel is far from proven.
The OEM clutch is fine and i'd stick with it. The Comptech clutch/flywheel is far from proven.
In any case, all Comptech replaces is the clutch-disk and flywheel - they use the factory pressure-plate. It's a good combination but I am not sure how tough it is. It has still not been proven to be a Comptech issue or something particular to my application. Personally, I think the stock flywheel takes a brunt of the initial impact (dual-mass design)... but swapping it to the aluminum one tranfers that impact to the next thing in-line... the pressure-plate.
If someone comes up with a strong clutch that utilizes the factory fly-wheel, I'll be all over that!
#20
Originally Posted by mrsteve
Ram,
Weren't you using the lightweight UR crank in addition to the Comptech flywheel/clutch? Maybe that was TOO much weight removed off the drivetrain.
Weren't you using the lightweight UR crank in addition to the Comptech flywheel/clutch? Maybe that was TOO much weight removed off the drivetrain.
that is what I thought. is there anyone else who has had the comptech setup for sometime?
#21
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There's a few. There is no proof really that the pullies were the cause. It's a denfinite maybe though. Only way to really know is to test it out. And all the $$ invloved with that makes it unlikely.
I'd stay with a stock unit. It's already been proven the stock clutch holds up well even under high power loads
I'd stay with a stock unit. It's already been proven the stock clutch holds up well even under high power loads
#22
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Ram,
Weren't you using the lightweight UR crank in addition to the Comptech flywheel/clutch? Maybe that was TOO much weight removed off the drivetrain.
Weren't you using the lightweight UR crank in addition to the Comptech flywheel/clutch? Maybe that was TOO much weight removed off the drivetrain.
One of Comptech's theories was some sort of vibration that caused that piece to snap.... if there is so much vibration, how did my main bearings last through that?!
I think its because of the impact with the single-mass flywheel.... the pressure-plate twists and couldn't handle it. The weak-link is the pressure-plate.
#23
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ok, Here's the deal
I have had mine replaced. Expect roughly 1,200.00 at your dealer. It is labor intensive and requires special tools to perform the swap. I priced aftermarket clutches and fly wheels and decided the extra $ was not worth it. Good luck.
I have had mine replaced. Expect roughly 1,200.00 at your dealer. It is labor intensive and requires special tools to perform the swap. I priced aftermarket clutches and fly wheels and decided the extra $ was not worth it. Good luck.
#25
Blown is Best
If you truly burned your clutch, you will need:
1) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) Throw out Bearing
1) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) Throw out Bearing
#27
Blown is Best
I changed out my clutch with the Comptech lightweight flywheel and friction disk when they replaced my rear main seal. If I remember correctly, labor would have been around $800. Parts through Carland at this site:
Carland
1) $453.48 (list = $533.51) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) $301.18 (list = $354.33) for Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) $33.54 (list=$39.46)Throw out Bearing
Flywheel cannot be resurfaced because of the "Dual Mass" design.
Carland
1) $453.48 (list = $533.51) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) $301.18 (list = $354.33) for Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) $33.54 (list=$39.46)Throw out Bearing
Flywheel cannot be resurfaced because of the "Dual Mass" design.
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Originally Posted by Allout
I changed out my clutch with the Comptech lightweight flywheel and friction disk when they replaced my rear main seal. If I remember correctly, labor would have been around $800. Parts through Carland at this site:
Carland
1) $453.48 (list = $533.51) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) $301.18 (list = $354.33) for Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) $33.54 (list=$39.46)Throw out Bearing
Flywheel cannot be resurfaced because of the "Dual Mass" design.
Carland
1) $453.48 (list = $533.51) a new Flywheel (which includes the pilot bearing)
2) $301.18 (list = $354.33) for Clutch Set (which includes the friction plate and pressure plate)
3) $33.54 (list=$39.46)Throw out Bearing
Flywheel cannot be resurfaced because of the "Dual Mass" design.
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Originally Posted by Hobo
does it smell like clutch?
that would be the first sign that it isnt just a fluid issue
that would be the first sign that it isnt just a fluid issue
#31
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Yep that's the whole kit,
Clutch
throw out bearing
presure plate
The kit is right at $430.00 roughly. This job was labor intensive though. It required dropping the tranny out of the car. I would highly recommend taking it to a dealer you trust. I stress dealer you trust, because my dealer said I was the first person to have the clutch replaced and it would be a learning experience. I know the shop manager so I made sure he did the work personally.
Clutch
throw out bearing
presure plate
The kit is right at $430.00 roughly. This job was labor intensive though. It required dropping the tranny out of the car. I would highly recommend taking it to a dealer you trust. I stress dealer you trust, because my dealer said I was the first person to have the clutch replaced and it would be a learning experience. I know the shop manager so I made sure he did the work personally.
#33
If the clutch master cylinder went bad you might not lose any fluid and it still wouldn't release the clutch when you depressed it.
How can you tell if the clutch master cylinder is bad though??? Or do you just ask the dealer to check it?
How can you tell if the clutch master cylinder is bad though??? Or do you just ask the dealer to check it?
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Alright well i just got a call back from the dealer and they told me my pressure plate is basically worn out. They said this isn't covered by warranty because it still is a wear and tear issue. Is this true? I thought if pressure plates went bad they would crack or something not wear out. They to get this fixed ill have to get a new clutch set and possibly a new flywheel if they can't resurface it and will run me something like $1400++. Any suggestion guys or possible ways where i can fight my way around this and have it covered by warranty or the dealer? This is just a ton of money and I find it odd that im about to hi 26k miles on the car and my pressure plate goes bad and it's not like im a horrible driver or race every other weekend.
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Really one of those things where someone needs to ride in the car with you. I have friends who insist that downshifting and feathuring the clutch is ok. I have one friend who double clutches his poor Acura.
Really sounds like a driving style issue. i have owned several Manual Acuras and never had issues like that
Good luck.
Really sounds like a driving style issue. i have owned several Manual Acuras and never had issues like that
Good luck.
#38
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Originally Posted by koolmonkey999
Alright well i just got a call back from the dealer and they told me my pressure plate is basically worn out. They said this isn't covered by warranty because it still is a wear and tear issue. Is this true? I thought if pressure plates went bad they would crack or something not wear out. They to get this fixed ill have to get a new clutch set and possibly a new flywheel if they can't resurface it and will run me something like $1400++. Any suggestion guys or possible ways where i can fight my way around this and have it covered by warranty or the dealer? This is just a ton of money and I find it odd that im about to hi 26k miles on the car and my pressure plate goes bad and it's not like im a horrible driver or race every other weekend.
same prob as me... 1700 to fix. 2 days
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so all i would need to do is get the new clutch set right? i dont need to buy a new flywheel or anything do i? im thinkin since the dealer is going to overcharge my ass i was going to have it taken to another body shop which also specializes in tranny work and have it installed there. my friend with his rsx got his new clutch installed there and seemed to have done a great job.