??? on building the CLS bottom end...
??? on building the CLS bottom end...
does anyone make forged anything for this engine yet? has any attempted to give it any boost besides the supercharger? say maybe a turbo?
it's still on the drawing board right now but I'm looking to see what I can do about making this car fast... if I can get a price range of under 5K then maybe I can make it happen... I've been reading up on the HKS turboed 3.0 Accord... looks promising but they couldn't get the power to the ground with that crappy transmission they've got on there... I should hear from the guy in Austin with the CLS turbo sometime soon... I'll post pics soon as I get them...
it's still on the drawing board right now but I'm looking to see what I can do about making this car fast... if I can get a price range of under 5K then maybe I can make it happen... I've been reading up on the HKS turboed 3.0 Accord... looks promising but they couldn't get the power to the ground with that crappy transmission they've got on there... I should hear from the guy in Austin with the CLS turbo sometime soon... I'll post pics soon as I get them...
yeah... but on the 6MT I think there's more potential there don't you guys? turbonetics eh? whta's their webpage or ph. #? I'll try giving them a call tomorrow... if I can't come up with the funds to do this I know a guy here in Austin who wipes his ass with $100 bills... maybe I can con him into doing it to his CLS
Building the bottom end
Well.... personally I would get JE or Arias to build 9.5:1 compression pistons (they only need a factory one for dimensions). Get Crower to make a set of rods. Get
Benson's Machining to sleeve the block. Nitrite, shot-peen
and knife-edge the crank (or you you want to spend the $$$$,
get a forged crank made - you can stroke the motor at this
time as well). Shim the oil-pump... balance everything and you
have a bottom-end capable of handling 600-700hp! Now...
the heads are a different story. You need to port and polish...
get bigger valves. Definateley need a custom intake-manifold
and throttle-body.
Just boost 15 to 20 psi with the supercharger... and you got
oodles of horsepower.
Just don't think you will have traction!!
Benson's Machining to sleeve the block. Nitrite, shot-peen
and knife-edge the crank (or you you want to spend the $$$$,
get a forged crank made - you can stroke the motor at this
time as well). Shim the oil-pump... balance everything and you
have a bottom-end capable of handling 600-700hp! Now...
the heads are a different story. You need to port and polish...
get bigger valves. Definateley need a custom intake-manifold
and throttle-body.
Just boost 15 to 20 psi with the supercharger... and you got
oodles of horsepower.
Just don't think you will have traction!!
Since our car has vtec we're probably better off with n/a mods or an s/c... rather than a turbo. I don't really like superchargers much so I probably wouldn't bother modding a J32A2 to the maximum unless I had unlimited funds and could do a workable turbo mod to it. Besides it's front wheel drive so over 350-400hp would become unbearable.
it's true that 400+hp is probably more than the traction can put down but that's mostly in tires and clutch/flywheel stuff... as far as VTEC being an issue I think you could just do what quite a few people are doing now with full race honda engines and turn off VTEC. And actually there haven't been that many problems with people using VTEC in combo with turbos like those drag gen 3 kits and others on civics/integras/preludes... I don't see how a supercharger would be better with VTEC than a turbo... maybe b/c it's more of a linear boost in pressure rather than a spike perhaps when the VTEC hits and the turbo pushes even harder? maybe you could explain this to me a bit... just interested not a flame...
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I'm no expert but I would think having to deal with the turbo kicking in plus VTEC kicking in would be two different sets of power band boosts that could encourage detonation, leaning out, or an unexpected issue that you wouldn't run into as easily on a non-VTEC engine. At least with a regular turbo'd engine there's no secondary cam setting issue to worry about. With VTEC you basically have to tune for two different engine profiles/settings, one before engagement and one for after. At least with more modern tech like continuously variable systems, there's no sudden change in profile.
be careful doing "wild mods" to your 03 CL man cause the dealer might void your warrenty.
I know for sure if you tear down the motor(and put in like low compression pistons and all that other stuff) he'll void your warrenty.
personally I'd just drop on a Comptech S/C(for about 4000-5000 bucks including installation you'll have 300 HP AT THE WHEELS
)
I know for sure if you tear down the motor(and put in like low compression pistons and all that other stuff) he'll void your warrenty.
personally I'd just drop on a Comptech S/C(for about 4000-5000 bucks including installation you'll have 300 HP AT THE WHEELS
)
Honda/Acura oil-pumps in the past have given problems under high-stressful conditions such as very high RPM's and high-load conditions such as while boosting. Your motor will have a very (and I mean very..!!) short life if the oil-pump gives up.
You need to take the oil-pump apart.... and shim the bearings on the inlet side... (not the crank-side!!).
Works well.... without having to buy a $600 aftermarket oil-pump!
You need to take the oil-pump apart.... and shim the bearings on the inlet side... (not the crank-side!!).
Works well.... without having to buy a $600 aftermarket oil-pump!
Originally posted by allmotor_2000
Honda/Acura oil-pumps in the past have given problems under high-stressful conditions such as very high RPM's and high-load conditions such as while boosting. Your motor will have a very (and I mean very..!!) short life if the oil-pump gives up.
You need to take the oil-pump apart.... and shim the bearings on the inlet side... (not the crank-side!!).
Works well.... without having to buy a $600 aftermarket oil-pump!
Honda/Acura oil-pumps in the past have given problems under high-stressful conditions such as very high RPM's and high-load conditions such as while boosting. Your motor will have a very (and I mean very..!!) short life if the oil-pump gives up.
You need to take the oil-pump apart.... and shim the bearings on the inlet side... (not the crank-side!!).
Works well.... without having to buy a $600 aftermarket oil-pump!
You might also consider oil pick-up issues if you really start putting slicks on the car with a large turbo -- all the shimming in the world wont help if there isn't any oil to pick up...
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
talk to turbonetics... maybe they can custom make for you.
talk to turbonetics... maybe they can custom make for you.
well i'm still on the drawing boards right now... doing research on turbos and whatnot... and research on costs... so when things are serious I'll get in touch with you typeR... thanks...
Originally posted by allmotor_2000
You need to take the oil-pump apart.... and shim the bearings on the inlet side... (not the crank-side!!).
You need to take the oil-pump apart.... and shim the bearings on the inlet side... (not the crank-side!!).
Juker008
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