Brembo Rotors
#1
Brembo Rotors
I found a groupbuy for Brembo Rotors (any way you want them: drilled, drilled and slotted, or just slotted). They are not listed as one of the applications but if you call, they will be able to special order for $69/rotor for fronts. This is for 01-03 cl type s applications. What do you guys think?
Here is the groupbuy:
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/buy.aspx?id=11264
Here is the groupbuy:
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/buy.aspx?id=11264
#3
Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't cross drilled / slotted rotors essentially for "high performance sports cars"? I was told that they were cross drilled/slotted to dissapate heat faster, BUT the design is for the brakes to cool down faster for brakes that heat up fast, like in racing applications and sports cars. For daily driving, I was told, that cross drilled rotors warp easily because the steady heat of everyday driving does not allow them to do what they are designed to do, so the drill holes actually make them easier to warp than regular rotors because in that instance they can't cool down as fast enough before they are heated up again. Slotted rotors are the "comprimise" because they allow heat dissapation, but are not drilled all the way through, thus less prone to warp. With that being said, I think Slotted rotors would be the safer choice.
Just my
Just my
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#10
Originally posted by CL P Diddy
Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't cross drilled / slotted rotors essentially for "high performance sports cars"?
Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't cross drilled / slotted rotors essentially for "high performance sports cars"?
x-drilling and slotting only serves to prevent the brake pads from glazing due to the heat. glazed pads have a lower coefficient of friction, thus compromising braking power.
but x-drilling/slotting stock-sized rotors only means you'll heat up the rotors faster, increasing the risk of warping them.
#12
Originally posted by ABreece
Cross drilling and slotting reduces the lifetime of the rotor, last i heard.
Cross drilling and slotting reduces the lifetime of the rotor, last i heard.
-Vlad
#13
I just bought the Brembo rotors this week at Tirerack for only $50 each(front). They are not drilled or slotted because I don't need them for my kind of driving. They do sell drilled ones also. Check it out
#14
Originally posted by usc
if you're not getting bigger diameter rotors, x-drilling and/or slotting rotors only serves to remove precious metal that could have been used to retain heat.
x-drilling and slotting only serves to prevent the brake pads from glazing due to the heat. glazed pads have a lower coefficient of friction, thus compromising braking power.
but x-drilling/slotting stock-sized rotors only means you'll heat up the rotors faster, increasing the risk of warping them.
if you're not getting bigger diameter rotors, x-drilling and/or slotting rotors only serves to remove precious metal that could have been used to retain heat.
x-drilling and slotting only serves to prevent the brake pads from glazing due to the heat. glazed pads have a lower coefficient of friction, thus compromising braking power.
but x-drilling/slotting stock-sized rotors only means you'll heat up the rotors faster, increasing the risk of warping them.
#15
#17
Go look at the friggin GB, the guy laid it out already...
Anyway, the rotors come blank from Brembo and then that company drills and slots them.
Slotted are better than drilled if your worried about your rotors cracking etc....
Anyway, the rotors come blank from Brembo and then that company drills and slots them.
Slotted are better than drilled if your worried about your rotors cracking etc....
#18
Originally posted by tdtsai
I don't agree with your comment. One of the most important function of the rotor is to dissipate heat not to retain heat!!! Cross drilling removes the metal and you ended up with less surface on the rotor for braking. Thus, a slight decrease of the braking power, but because of the holes in the rotor, the cooling effect is increased, therefore, decrease the chance of warping For street driving, cross drill and slotting are not beneficial. It's only for looks!
I don't agree with your comment. One of the most important function of the rotor is to dissipate heat not to retain heat!!! Cross drilling removes the metal and you ended up with less surface on the rotor for braking. Thus, a slight decrease of the braking power, but because of the holes in the rotor, the cooling effect is increased, therefore, decrease the chance of warping For street driving, cross drill and slotting are not beneficial. It's only for looks!
the cooling effect of x-drilled rotors would only really be seen with rotors that have directional vanes designed to circulate air as the rotor turns. w/o the directional vanes, one would just be losing precious metal.
with that said, i agree x-drill and slotted rotors are not beneficial for street driving. but i still like my brakes
#19
Cross drilling and slotting rotors does reduce the surface area of the rotor, but, it greatly increases the coeficient of friction against the brake pads. Therefore, these modified rotors WILL give more effective stopping power than smooth stock rotors (but your pads will wear out quicker like going from smooth material to sandpaper). Think of sliding across a smooth floor wearing socks vs. sliding across a floor with a bunch of 1/2" holes while wearing socks. You wont slide as far on the floor with holes even though there is less floor to slide on because the holes are stopping you. Your socks (brake pads) will tear up more (a price you must pay for better stopping power.
Rotors will warp no matter what but the holes and slots do help to remove heat much faster causing a better chance of saving your rotors from warpage.
Bottom line is if you like to drive fast, get drilled and slotted rotors better breaking. If you just cruise then stock rotors are fine.
By the way...I read all that dumb shi% above in a physics book about 5 years ago.
Rotors will warp no matter what but the holes and slots do help to remove heat much faster causing a better chance of saving your rotors from warpage.
Bottom line is if you like to drive fast, get drilled and slotted rotors better breaking. If you just cruise then stock rotors are fine.
By the way...I read all that dumb shi% above in a physics book about 5 years ago.
#20
your analogy is that of a soft object (foot) pressing against a hard surface with holes (rotors). in theory, both the brake pads and rotors are hard, metallic like, and should not sink into the holes like a soft foot with socks. the holes in the rotor is not meant to stick out like a cheese grater, they're suppose to be smooth. thus decreasing available surface area for braking. if the surface was uneven, there will be a lot of vibration that would result whenever the pads meet the rotor surface.
of course in reality, all materials will flex/compress to a certain degree. slotting/x-drilling will allow any gas to escape and keep the pad surface in better contact with the rotor.
my position on this is that if you're maintaining stock sized rotors, x-drilling will have very little benefit (if any) because no company currently make OE app rotors with directional vanes for our Honda/Acura's. if you choose to go bigger, you'll have more metal and in theory, could spare some for the x-drilling/slotting.
for my particular situation, i went from a 10.xx" rotor 22mm to a 12.9" rotor 28mm thick. more metal, greater diameter, and directionally vaned for more efficient cooling.
of course in reality, all materials will flex/compress to a certain degree. slotting/x-drilling will allow any gas to escape and keep the pad surface in better contact with the rotor.
my position on this is that if you're maintaining stock sized rotors, x-drilling will have very little benefit (if any) because no company currently make OE app rotors with directional vanes for our Honda/Acura's. if you choose to go bigger, you'll have more metal and in theory, could spare some for the x-drilling/slotting.
for my particular situation, i went from a 10.xx" rotor 22mm to a 12.9" rotor 28mm thick. more metal, greater diameter, and directionally vaned for more efficient cooling.
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