ghost_masterCL

ok so I just posted this in the first gen forum, but since not many people there have rotora rotors I figured I would put it here too. anyways here is a straight copy-paste from my other post:

ok, so just in case none of you saw my other thread i'll give a refresher. I installed some new rotora rotors on my 3.0 and have attempted to do the break in procedure exactly as it is written in the rotora. Either way as soon as I put them on I was very gentle with the brakes. About 120 miles into the break in i had to drive to school which involved the highway and I noticed that when I used the brakes on the highway even lightly that the steering wheel would shake like crazy.

has anyone ever run into warped rotora rotors from teh factory? I only have about 300 miles on the rotors and pads on the front and am trying to get themm replaced under warrenty sine they seem to be warped. this sound about right to you all?

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

i really doubt that your rotors are warped...maybe you should re-torque the lugs? Also maybe when you took of the tires a balance got moved around. Also what new brake pads did u install?

ghost_masterCL

already double checked on the lugs, one of the studs was stripped so I had it replaced and had the wheel weights checked out and all the balancing checked out when it was replaced. all looks good, and is only noticable during braking, and not during normal driving.

I have some axxis/pbr organic pads on because I didn't want squeeling with the metal masters. someone told me I should have ceramic pads on there. does that sound right?

dukmahsik

yep mined warped after a few hundred miles as well

ghost_masterCL

bummer, so Im not alone at least. were you abole to get them replaced under warrenty? did you install them or did you ahve a shop install them and if you did have them replaced under warranty, what did you have to do to get that?

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

i'd be interested to know why the rotors warped and what rotora did about it, cause i have a pair of slotted front rotors i haven't installed yet.

berny

i have 7000k on them and they are warped. These rotors suck

Smitty

are the rotors cross drilled or slotted by chance?

Bobbydoedoe

and did youi break it in properly?

ghost_masterCL

yep, broke it in perfectly, but i had to drive to school on the highway after about 100 miles on the rotors, and I was going about 80 for the first time since putting on the front rotors and lightly pressed the brakes and the whole car shook like crazy. They are slotted by the way.

I just took them off and put on the stock rotors again since thy were in relatively god condition and the shaking completely vanished, so it must be the rotors.

and I know that slotted rotors will make a little shaking, but the shaking was so bad the rear view mirror got moved to point a different direction and I had to adjust it again.

I'm gonna try to get them replaced under warranty because it must be the rotors since the problem completely disappeared when I switched out just the rotors for the stock ones.

Smitty

Your concerns:

Any time a rotors structure is compromised through cross-drilling or slotting the rate of warpage is increased... if the bit used to make the slots/drillings is dull it will cause excess heat and the rotor will warp during the process.. it is not present to the naked eye.
If the rotors are drilled/slotted (heated up) then not stored properly = they will warp.
If the rotors are NOT stored properly overtime (laying flat) they will warp.
The rotors can be installed either way but i suggest you make sure you installed as the manufacture prescribed.

good deal.. atleast you were smart enough to remove them and get them replaced.
I prescribe you do not get slotted rotors since you troubles the first time around.

I also prescribe that you do not run Ceramic pads..

ghost_masterCL

lol, what are you the brake doctor?

well the thing is, that they were made to order (ie. they made them AFTER I placed the order), and I put them on 2 weeks after I got them. They were sitting flat in a box the whole time before i put them on.

why not use ceramic pads? the rotors are performance rotors and are meant to withstand the harsher pads. I think I will just get some solid rotor replacements if i can.

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

and

you were using the slotted rotora rotors with what pads?

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

did you buy them from rotora directly? sorry for all the questions, but it concerns me that brand new rotora rotors could warp so quickly.

Allout

The rotors on our TL-P are slightly warped and they are cross drilled and slotted. No problems on the BBK on the CL-S so I think the problem is only isolated to the stock sized replacements. I too did a good bedding in process on the rotors and pads. I'll probably try cryogenic powerslots next time.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

There are a few instructions that ROTORA puts in when installing these rotors. Firstly, you need to wash the rotor clean with soap and water. Secondly, you need to torque the lug nuts at the correct ft/lbs of tq and also in a star pattern. Thirdly, you need to take it easy on the brakes for at least 250 miles.

Saying that, did you drive through any puddles after some spirited braking and get the rotor wet after it had heated up significantly? Did you do the proper break-in procedure immediately after the install? (Speed up to 60mph and gradually slow down to 10mph without stopping if at all possible six to ten times immediately after installing the rotors) Also did you install these yourself?

Josh
Excelerate LLC

Allout

Yes to all except for puddle question.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

ROTORA will warranty them I believe within 500 miles if you do in fact have a warped rotor. I have only seen one person actually have a warped rotor from the factory and that was if he even was telling the truth.

Josh
Excelerate LLC

TampaBayCLS

YOU DO NOT HAVE A ROTOR PROBLEM YOU HAVE A PAD PROBLEM.

These cars were engineered to use semi-metallic brake pads NOT organic. Organic pads are not designed for the higher temps that all vehicles are creating today. I do not know of any vehicle produced today that comes from the factory with organic pads. You will see organics for the rear because they do a much lower percentage of the braking. After braking, as the brake cools down, the organic pads are "leaving behind" friction material on the surface of the rotor. This causes a uneven rotor surface so the next time you brake you feel the vibration. Have your rotors turned and get a good set of semi-metallic pads. It is more important to "break in" the pads then the rotors. It is equally important that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification.

Good luck as my 01 CL-S is having the same issue as I research which friction material to try next.

ghost_masterCL

funny because I called the rotora phone number and asked the guy that specific question about using organic pads and he said that would definitely not be the problem. I might have overtightened the lugs, but I didn't really tighten them THAT tight. I am 6' tall and 135 lbs, with absolutely no fat on me. I don't have much power to put into the tightening.

TampaBayCLS

Does Rotora manufacture pads? I don't know. Was this an engineer or a customer service person? Trust what I have told you. This has been proven by many racing groups. The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started. Simply fitting a set of good semi-metallic pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason. Again good luck.

Smitty

I would like to think I know a thing or 2... take my advise to heart or with a grain of salt... just trying to help ya out of a situation.


no torque wrench?.. 80 ft/lbs is the factory spec.

If you trorque them down above 80:
1. you will damage the hat and cause the rotor to warp.
2. you will do what you did already and strip the lug out.

I am actually about 3 steps below a Doctor...

ghost_masterCL

well actually the stripped lug was really just had a dent in the threads from a hammer I dropped, but I think I am gonna get a torque wrench today.