Could someone run through the best way of doing this that will provide me with the best launch technique without damaging my rotors? Please describe pressure and rpms as well as technique. Thanks

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_ _____________________ _
'01 Black CL S, Spoiler, Tint,Comptech Headers, Sways, Exhaust& Springs, AEM CAI w/ Bypass,Denso Iridium Plugs

 

Its not the rotors, it the torque converter that gets fried. Not a cheap repair.

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2001 Silver 3.2CL Type S with Spoiler and Navi
Charter member of the Scratched Rim Club

 

Okay, don't want to fire my convertor, butI still would like to hear how to do it properly. No air ,No VSA, hard shifting, BUT I don't know anything about the brake torqueing, anyone?


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_ _____________________ _
'01 Black CL S, Spoiler, Tint,Comptech Headers, Sways, Exhaust& Springs, AEM CAI w/ Bypass,Denso Iridium Plugs

 

How bad is brake torquing? Ive been to the track twice already, and if its that bad..I shouldnt go as often.

Spiro

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Black/Black 2001 CL-S
Random Technology Cat
RED AEM CAI
Polarg M6 Roadlamps

 

Thats why I'm getting a tranny cooler.

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Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-BOSCH platinum+4 plugs
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

I've made over 50 runs with my V6 Accord at the track, and I'm sure I've raced at least that many times from stop lights on the street. My car currently has 36k miles and I have had no transmission problems or engine problems yet.

To properly brake torque, I recommend you move your seat forward a little bit, to make sure you can firmly depress the brake peddle as far as it will go. Use your LEFT foot to depress the brake peddle all the way. Slowly bring up the rpms with the RIGHT foot on the gas peddle. I'd start with 1,500 rpms and adjust from there as needed.

DO NOT BRAKE TORQUE FOR MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS AT A TIME!!!

If you are at a street light, wait until the you see the cross light turn yellow before you begin brake torqueing. If you are at the track, wait until the other car is fully staged before you begin brake torqueing.

Now all you have to do is release the brake quickly while pressing the gas peddle. If you have problems hooking up when you mash the gas peddle, you may have ease into the gas peddle to prevent excessive tire spin off the line.

Do NOT make repeated back to back runs at the track or on the street if you are brake torqueing. Ideally you want to give your car a chance to cool off after making a full throttle run, or at least go easy on it. If not, I would recommend purchasing a transmission fluid cooler to help keep fluid temps from rising too high in your transmission.

I hope this helps a little bit.

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2000 Acccord LX V6 Sedan
- Eibach Pro-Kit Springs& Koni Yellow Shocks
- AEM Short Ram Intake
- AEM Tru-Power Pulleys
- Jet Hot Coated CompTech Headers
- Denso Iridium IK20 Plugs
- Forged Racing Hart 17x7.5" CP-035's with 225/45 RE730's
- 15.44 @ 87.87mph (Track)

 

Helped a lot, exactly what I was looking for, I will try it out after work today, starting with 1.5K and seeing what works best, still have stock tires so I am sure wheel slip will be a problem, any sugestions about which coolers to use and how much? where? Thanks again.

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'01 Black CL S, Spoiler, Tint,Comptech Headers, Sways, Exhaust& Springs, AEM CAI w/ Bypass,Denso Iridium Plugs

[This message has been edited by MtBikR (edited 05-18-2001).]

 

Also BNUT, I was thinknig of adding the AEM pulleys, I know there's been lots said about them, I've read it, But I just wanted to ask two things: 1st does your throttle "feel" faster? 2nd any problems w/ power?

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_ _____________________ _
'01 Black CL S, Spoiler, Tint,Comptech Headers, Sways, Exhaust& Springs, AEM CAI w/ Bypass,Denso Iridium Plugs

 

Hayden is a popular tranny cooler, and B&M makes them as well. The Hayden 403 is a popular model if I remember correctly. They go for about $40-$50 and can be purchased at Pep-Boys or most any auto parts store.

 

I bought the Hayden 403 tranny cooler but I can't find the ATF inlet and return lines to tap into. Anyone with a Chilton's know where they are???

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Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-BOSCH platinum+4 plugs
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

Yes, I feel a lot more pull off the line, and the rpm's definitely rise quicker in the upper range.

No problems with power and I've had the pulleys installed since Oct. In fact I just bought a multimeter today and with the car at idle my battery is at 12.7-12.8 volts. At 1,100 rpms it is at 13.8x volts. With the headlights and high beams turned on (at idle) my voltage drops down to 12.5. With the car turned off my battery reads 12.7 volts. (Probably because the battery still has a charge from the car running)


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2000 Acccord LX V6 Sedan
- Eibach Pro-Kit Springs& Koni Yellow Shocks
- AEM Short Ram Intake
- AEM Tru-Power Pulleys
- Jet Hot Coated CompTech Headers
- Denso Iridium IK20 Plugs
- Forged Racing Hart 17x7.5" CP-035's with 225/45 RE730's
- 15.44 @ 87.87mph (Track)

 

i torque brake till like 3400 and then let go and laterz im out

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2001 3.5 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter, dommed topped pistons, mdx crankshaft, rods , bearings, heads ported and polished,s-afc, vtec timing

my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html

 

Hey mchtypes...did you take it to the track with some slicks yet???
I'm really curious...cause now you have a TC that can really allow you to launch off the line and with slicks...you should get plenty of traction.


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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
Comptech Headers (hehehe...I got something for you drchang!!)
14.698 @95.977mph....Sears Point Raceway.
I think I need a Level 10 Torque Converter!!