Okay, yeah, we have 50,000 warped brake threads. However, I'm trying to go a little deeper. I have legend calipers up front with Racing Brake rotors/HPS pads and Rotora rotors/pads in the rear. Probably haven't had both for more than 7500 miles. Now, I'm getting severe shaking as if to be warped rotors, braking at high speeds. Not neccessarily the steering wheel, more less the whole car. This makes me think it's the rears. However, I want to doubt that theory because they are too new, or so I feel. Could they already be warped. I think they feel they are too far from a new break in.

Also, when I come to a slow, my car acts as if I'm rolling on oval tires. Hard to explain. I seem to roll unsmoothly, lerching forward in a consistent manner. And, no, my feet are pretty steady.

I also remember someone talking about an adjustable screw for the brakes. Is that something that I need to do since I have different calipers? Are the rears getting more pressure because of this?

 

Could be warped brakes if the system wasn't properly bled after installing them or something and the brakes are always slightly in contact with the rotor.

 

Could be your alignment or your tires.

 

get ur tires balanced

 

the oval tires thign is most def warped rotors, bc when they are warped they are grabbing in different areas at different times, causing the car to pulse when stopping

 

exactly, but how do I figure out which ones? front, rear, both? Do I have to trial and error it?

 

I'm going to guess that its your front ones. My old set of front rotors gave the impression of "oval tires" that you described when coming to a stop.

 

i'd say the front. most of the stopping comes from up front.

 

Your front rotors will take most of the brunt of stopping your car...that's why the front rotors are vented, physically larger and alot more beefer than the rear rotors. But unfortunately front rotors are most likely to warp due to overheating. If you want to be technical, you can check a warped rotor by using dial indicator and checking the runout on each rotor, but the front rotors will usually warp first.

 

I forgot to mention that when you tighten your lug nuts, don't use a impact gun. You can also warp your rotors. Use a torque wrench with the correct torque specs and doing the star pattern....

 

Forgive me if this is a noob question....is runout basically the thickness of the rotor?

 

No problem man! Runout is the amount of "wobble" of a rotor spinning on a axis. The thickness is the width of the rotor. So you would use a dial indicator to measure the amount of "Wobble" (which by the way can cause your brake to pulsate or have that jerky feeling). The machinist will put it on a brake lathe to make the rotor surfaces parallel and true to each other.
You would use a rotor measuring caliper tool to measure the rotor thickness. If your rotors are "grooved" dued to wear or running the brakes metal to metal, the auto machinist will look for the deepest groove and take a reading to see how much he can machine off to make the braking surface flat and smooth. There is a minimum thickness that rotor can be at. It is usually embossed on the rotor. If the rotor has a minimum thickness specification of 1 inch and the machinist finds a groove that measures .75 of an inch thickness, that rotor needs to be junked. If he should machine that rotor, it will have a thickness of less than 1 inch and it would warp and crack if you put it back on your car. Hope this helps....

 

Thanks. That makes it clear.

 

your rears will almost never warp, simply because as said above, they are not relied on as much to do the braking (approx 70% front vs 30% rear)

that said, my rotora slotted front and rear w/ legend calipers setup has warped on me in <15000km, which is roughly 9000miles. the size of the rotor just isn't big enough for these big ass cars.

 

Definitely get your tires rotated/balanced, get the alignment checked, and re-bed the brake pads real good before assuming the rotors are warped for sure.

 

Well, it was definitely the front rotors. Replaced them with DBA rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads. Also, flushed out the system with ATE Super Blue. Brakes so far are amazing. Feels a little better than my previous setup. Although it's hard to pinpoint which component is making the difference (pads, rotors, fluid).