I'm new to this site...I haven't seen this on the site yet, but I could be wrong.

Anyone know how I would go about blacking out the chrome trim around our side windows. I have 2001 Blk/blk CL-P

Thanks

 

Magic Marker?

 

I was thinking about the same thing. The easiest way i see it and i would do is to get black vinyl sticker. And mold it over the chrome. The problem is, even high quality sticker are not going to stand the enviromental abuse, so look at replaceing every ~3 years or so.

 

I wouldn' t bother...sounds like a pain to me.

 

I’ve looked into doing this. My body guy estimated about 200-250.
He recommends all new trim because the old stuff will bend when you remove it.
He said he would “rough up” the chrome so the paint would adhere and then paint with a flat black color and reinstall the new parts.

It’s not really worth doing this right now, but the first time I need to visit him for a deer hit or accident I will probably get it done.

Shawn S

 

it would not be worth all the hassle tried it on my bike long time ago, came out like ass.

 

Model railroaders have been at the forefront of this problem. I haven't actually seen the solutions but there is an off the shelf chemical for this procedure. Here are some links:

http://ablehobby.com/awest_blacken_it_4oz.htm

http://www.scintilla.utwente.nl/mark...ry96/0027.html

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/smf-q033.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 07:30:06 -0500
From: Ernest Thomas <ethomas6@bellsouth.net>
To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu
Subject: Blacken-it, was Re: !@#$%^&* MS products
Message-ID: <377C4360.4A9A@bellsouth.net>

richard eaton wrote:
>
> Ah yes another satisfied customer!

While we're on the subject of satisfied customers, I just wanted to
chime in and confess I am now a devout believer in 'Blacken-it'.
I used it for the first time on the N.17 braceing wires in the cockpit
and must say I do like it. I found I was able to control the degree of
blackening to get .006 brass wire to change from brass, to steel grey to
black. It's easy to use, looks more natural than paint, and doesn't
thicken the wire like paint does. Keeps my .006 wire at .006.
Can't wait to try it on some PE. Should be the perfect solution to
painting Spandau jackets without clogging up the holes.
To those who recomended it, a great big heartfelt thanks. To those who
haven't tried it yet, Get thee to the train section of your local
plastic pusher and get a bottle.
E.
Who's looking forward to a 3 day weekend of modeling and reading. SP's
copy of 'No Parachute' arrived in today's mail.

------------------------------

And, of course, there is this:

http://members.tripod.com/~littlerosie/blackened.html

 

It wopuld be sweet to buy new trim - then send it off to the people who did Nicky Pass's wheels ...Get the trim dipped in black chrome and re-apply....Hmmmm

 

That’s a good idea and wouldn’t be too awful expensive.
I believe all the trim parts around the windows can be had for about 75-bucks.

 

I went to the local car parts store and bought 2 packages of blackout tape - cost about $8.00 total. It took me about 5-6 hours to do both sides of the car. NO I DO NOT HAVE PICTURES. Most of it has held up pretty well. The 2 problems areas have been the verticle section at the rear edge of the back side window and the edge at the top of the door - right where the corner of the door hits as that is where the trim is joined and it prone to water.

 

This is something I've been wanting to do for some time. A body shop around here said they had some sort of paint that would do the trick, but I just don't trust it. The chrome trim is the only thing keeping me from putting gunmetal wheels on my car. I think this car would look so much sportier in all black.


When my car was repainted due to hail damage they did paint my grill black for me and it lloks really good--for a grill. I don't think the window trim would look as good. Plus, you inevitibly get chips in the paint that need to be touched up.

How hard would it be for someone to make this for us?

I would change it out in a hertbeat. I think I'll drop Snook a line.

 

it's probally chromed plastic so rules out the black chrome powder
coat. I would think paint would be your best route. I've also thought about this and did a black out an old vw I had,
with paint looked titty. worked good on everthing but the door
handles.( to much use) but you could powder coat yours.

 

Door handles can be replaced with those from the 03's.

And yes, it is chrome coated plastic.

 

Um, Shawn, MC222, be very careful here. I was the FIRST guy to get the black chrome (Actually, it is called black pearl) applied to my wheels, and Nicky followed suit when he saw mine.

My first 2003 non navi satin silver CLS6 had an EXTREMELY MINOR corrosion area, it was just under the passenger side rear seat chrome window trim (which actually is plastic, not metal), so I asked the dealer to remove the trim so I could remove the corrosion and apply touch up paint.

Not possible, that trim is actually part of the window, and the whole rear window would have to be removed.

On top of that, chrome on metal disappeared from cars long ago. What you percieve as chrome is actually metallized mylar film. The metallization, which is actually aluminum, not chrome, hides behind a film of .001" thick clear mylar film, and the back side of the metal layer has a pressure sensitive adhesive applied to it, and that sticks to the plastic trim.

Add onto that, the www.goodrichtechnology.com technology only has a certain size VDP chamber (vapor deposition, where the chrome look gets applied) is sized to do parts no larger than a wheel.

So, no Goodrich technology applies here. All parts that go through this powder coating/VDP/powder coating process must be able to withstand 490 F, and damn few plastics can do that.

Trust me on this one, it is a no go. I'm the "go to" guy in automotive finishing for a 55,000 person company who is thick as theives in automotive.

Even standard powder coatings that only see a cure temperature of about 375 won't work. Most exterior plastic trim is PC/ABS, and that melts about 250.

If you DO paint them yourself, using spray can paints, yes, rough up the surface, but don't expect it to last more than a year or so. And the final result will not be worth the effort.

How many GM/Ford/Chrysler cars have you seen where the blacked out trim is now half chrome? Too many for me.

For initial purchasing considerations, marketing studies have show that the most influential parameter that sways a purchaser is the quality of the finish. Test studies, where subjects were exposed to rather instanteneous exposures of cars were show. People could identify high quality finishes almost all the time, but couldn't identify the make and model of the car they were shown more than 10% of the time.

With most manufacturers, a GREAT DEAL OF TIME AND CARE is invested into the finish, and when you screw around with that, you are really taking your life in your own hands. The finish of your car involves the gloss (everybody likes gloss), evenness and the corrosion protection of your car, which should be carefully washed, top to bottom (in that order, wheels last) and waxed at least 4 times a year.

If you still really want to pursue the goodrich technology, which I endorse, but only for metal items good for 500 F, p.m. me.

 

ST2000 did it to his CL-S. He used black vinyl weather stripping. Just do a search for it.