Black Brembos
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From: Fullerton, CA
Black Brembos
Hey, I need everyone's opinion on brembo's with black calipers. I know a friend who is giving me a deal for 1200 new for a a set. I really want the red calipers, but he can't get them. Would you guys still go for it even if it's not the color you want?
Sold but not Forgotten...
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Mississauga, ON
Originally Posted by briancl
Hey, I need everyone's opinion on brembo's with black calipers. I know a friend who is giving me a deal for 1200 new for a a set. I really want the red calipers, but he can't get them. Would you guys still go for it even if it's not the color you want?
Please put down your credit card..... Amazing deal.. Any chance of group buys for us... I know the answer is NO... but you never know..
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Bleed Honda Blue
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From: Diamond Bar
Originally Posted by briancl
Hey, I need everyone's opinion on brembo's with black calipers. I know a friend who is giving me a deal for 1200 new for a a set. I really want the red calipers, but he can't get them. Would you guys still go for it even if it's not the color you want?
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: palatine, il
Although Brianlin87 has the right idea, let me assure you re powder coating them to the color you want is anything but cheap! I ought to know. I powder coat calipers for the CL board, and I have a set in my living room right now.
The easy way to remove the powder coating would be to take a torch to them to remove the old paint, but you can't do that. These parts are heat treated for strength, and if you overheat them, god knows what would happen. After all, these are your BRAKES, and behind the tires, they are the second most important safety item on the car.
And you can't just remove the powder coating by sand blasting. All of the machined areas must be protected by a special, mylar based masking tape. specially the cylinder bore(s). pockmark your bores due to careless sandblasting? you will be replacing all of your calipers. And if you make this an early step, out of sequence, there is no masking tape in the world that would stick to the roughened surface. And COMPLETELY FORGET about duct tape. These calipers need to see 450 degrees or so, and the adhesive would melt and flow over the surface. Causing yet another cleaning problem.
And sandblasting does not mean the surfaces are PERFECTLY CLEAN as they must be for powder coating. Sand blasting is usually an auto parts store remedy to get really groady parts down to a manageable proposition for machining, for like, say, a valve job.
Cleaning, masking, blasting (which can do some minor damage to the previous masking), solvent cleaning again (because the sand used may be contaminated), remasking can easily eat up 10 hours of labor when I get fairly good calipers and brackets. The ones I have now have about 25 hours of labor in them, due to dirty sand. I won't make that mistake again.
Plus, these are castings, which means there is air and other gasses trapped under the surface, and the process used to relieve the gasses, which will otherwise ruin your new powder coating job, is a time consuming and temperature sensitive process. Don't kid yourself that you can drop these off at a powder coating jobshop, which usually paints only simple sheet metal, and think you are going to get a high quality job, right out of the box.
On top of this, you need to specify what KIND of powder coating you want. Epoxies are great for corrosion control, but if you pick a high gloss black epoxy, in one year your calipers will be light gray to white due to chalking. What you really want is a polyester TGIC.
I'm not trying to throw rain on your parade. I've been powder coating for 15 years and doing castings for 4. Castings are wild animals as compared to sheet metal. Just informing you that you need to go into this with your eyes wide open.
I've done Smittys calipers, did them last March. And right now, MrSteves are being worked on.
This is not easy, not easy at all. You need to understand powder coatings, cureing paramaters, out gassing, masking techniques and basic metal cleanliness.
Four calipers and four caliper holding brackets should cost $500 minimum to powder coat them. There is a TON of hand labor involved in these things.
If you want to see powder coated calipers, go to the black market section and view the sticky to see Smittys calipers.
Just trying to save you guys some money and agrivation. But powder coating is the way to go, it lasts a lifetime, compared to all the guys here who have to repaint their calipers every year.
The easy way to remove the powder coating would be to take a torch to them to remove the old paint, but you can't do that. These parts are heat treated for strength, and if you overheat them, god knows what would happen. After all, these are your BRAKES, and behind the tires, they are the second most important safety item on the car.
And you can't just remove the powder coating by sand blasting. All of the machined areas must be protected by a special, mylar based masking tape. specially the cylinder bore(s). pockmark your bores due to careless sandblasting? you will be replacing all of your calipers. And if you make this an early step, out of sequence, there is no masking tape in the world that would stick to the roughened surface. And COMPLETELY FORGET about duct tape. These calipers need to see 450 degrees or so, and the adhesive would melt and flow over the surface. Causing yet another cleaning problem.
And sandblasting does not mean the surfaces are PERFECTLY CLEAN as they must be for powder coating. Sand blasting is usually an auto parts store remedy to get really groady parts down to a manageable proposition for machining, for like, say, a valve job.
Cleaning, masking, blasting (which can do some minor damage to the previous masking), solvent cleaning again (because the sand used may be contaminated), remasking can easily eat up 10 hours of labor when I get fairly good calipers and brackets. The ones I have now have about 25 hours of labor in them, due to dirty sand. I won't make that mistake again.
Plus, these are castings, which means there is air and other gasses trapped under the surface, and the process used to relieve the gasses, which will otherwise ruin your new powder coating job, is a time consuming and temperature sensitive process. Don't kid yourself that you can drop these off at a powder coating jobshop, which usually paints only simple sheet metal, and think you are going to get a high quality job, right out of the box.
On top of this, you need to specify what KIND of powder coating you want. Epoxies are great for corrosion control, but if you pick a high gloss black epoxy, in one year your calipers will be light gray to white due to chalking. What you really want is a polyester TGIC.
I'm not trying to throw rain on your parade. I've been powder coating for 15 years and doing castings for 4. Castings are wild animals as compared to sheet metal. Just informing you that you need to go into this with your eyes wide open.
I've done Smittys calipers, did them last March. And right now, MrSteves are being worked on.
This is not easy, not easy at all. You need to understand powder coatings, cureing paramaters, out gassing, masking techniques and basic metal cleanliness.
Four calipers and four caliper holding brackets should cost $500 minimum to powder coat them. There is a TON of hand labor involved in these things.
If you want to see powder coated calipers, go to the black market section and view the sticky to see Smittys calipers.
Just trying to save you guys some money and agrivation. But powder coating is the way to go, it lasts a lifetime, compared to all the guys here who have to repaint their calipers every year.
Let me in on that too!! Will they fit with stock TL-S rims?
Originally Posted by dfreder370
Although Brianlin87 has the right idea, let me assure you re powder coating them to the color you want is anything but cheap! I ought to know. I powder coat calipers for the CL board, and I have a set in my living room right now.
The easy way to remove the powder coating would be to take a torch to them to remove the old paint, but you can't do that. These parts are heat treated for strength, and if you overheat them, god knows what would happen. After all, these are your BRAKES, and behind the tires, they are the second most important safety item on the car.
And you can't just remove the powder coating by sand blasting. All of the machined areas must be protected by a special, mylar based masking tape. specially the cylinder bore(s). pockmark your bores due to careless sandblasting? you will be replacing all of your calipers. And if you make this an early step, out of sequence, there is no masking tape in the world that would stick to the roughened surface. And COMPLETELY FORGET about duct tape. These calipers need to see 450 degrees or so, and the adhesive would melt and flow over the surface. Causing yet another cleaning problem.
And sandblasting does not mean the surfaces are PERFECTLY CLEAN as they must be for powder coating. Sand blasting is usually an auto parts store remedy to get really groady parts down to a manageable proposition for machining, for like, say, a valve job.
Cleaning, masking, blasting (which can do some minor damage to the previous masking), solvent cleaning again (because the sand used may be contaminated), remasking can easily eat up 10 hours of labor when I get fairly good calipers and brackets. The ones I have now have about 25 hours of labor in them, due to dirty sand. I won't make that mistake again.
Plus, these are castings, which means there is air and other gasses trapped under the surface, and the process used to relieve the gasses, which will otherwise ruin your new powder coating job, is a time consuming and temperature sensitive process. Don't kid yourself that you can drop these off at a powder coating jobshop, which usually paints only simple sheet metal, and think you are going to get a high quality job, right out of the box.
On top of this, you need to specify what KIND of powder coating you want. Epoxies are great for corrosion control, but if you pick a high gloss black epoxy, in one year your calipers will be light gray to white due to chalking. What you really want is a polyester TGIC.
I'm not trying to throw rain on your parade. I've been powder coating for 15 years and doing castings for 4. Castings are wild animals as compared to sheet metal. Just informing you that you need to go into this with your eyes wide open.
I've done Smittys calipers, did them last March. And right now, MrSteves are being worked on.
This is not easy, not easy at all. You need to understand powder coatings, cureing paramaters, out gassing, masking techniques and basic metal cleanliness.
Four calipers and four caliper holding brackets should cost $500 minimum to powder coat them. There is a TON of hand labor involved in these things.
If you want to see powder coated calipers, go to the black market section and view the sticky to see Smittys calipers.
Just trying to save you guys some money and agrivation. But powder coating is the way to go, it lasts a lifetime, compared to all the guys here who have to repaint their calipers every year.
The easy way to remove the powder coating would be to take a torch to them to remove the old paint, but you can't do that. These parts are heat treated for strength, and if you overheat them, god knows what would happen. After all, these are your BRAKES, and behind the tires, they are the second most important safety item on the car.
And you can't just remove the powder coating by sand blasting. All of the machined areas must be protected by a special, mylar based masking tape. specially the cylinder bore(s). pockmark your bores due to careless sandblasting? you will be replacing all of your calipers. And if you make this an early step, out of sequence, there is no masking tape in the world that would stick to the roughened surface. And COMPLETELY FORGET about duct tape. These calipers need to see 450 degrees or so, and the adhesive would melt and flow over the surface. Causing yet another cleaning problem.
And sandblasting does not mean the surfaces are PERFECTLY CLEAN as they must be for powder coating. Sand blasting is usually an auto parts store remedy to get really groady parts down to a manageable proposition for machining, for like, say, a valve job.
Cleaning, masking, blasting (which can do some minor damage to the previous masking), solvent cleaning again (because the sand used may be contaminated), remasking can easily eat up 10 hours of labor when I get fairly good calipers and brackets. The ones I have now have about 25 hours of labor in them, due to dirty sand. I won't make that mistake again.
Plus, these are castings, which means there is air and other gasses trapped under the surface, and the process used to relieve the gasses, which will otherwise ruin your new powder coating job, is a time consuming and temperature sensitive process. Don't kid yourself that you can drop these off at a powder coating jobshop, which usually paints only simple sheet metal, and think you are going to get a high quality job, right out of the box.
On top of this, you need to specify what KIND of powder coating you want. Epoxies are great for corrosion control, but if you pick a high gloss black epoxy, in one year your calipers will be light gray to white due to chalking. What you really want is a polyester TGIC.
I'm not trying to throw rain on your parade. I've been powder coating for 15 years and doing castings for 4. Castings are wild animals as compared to sheet metal. Just informing you that you need to go into this with your eyes wide open.
I've done Smittys calipers, did them last March. And right now, MrSteves are being worked on.
This is not easy, not easy at all. You need to understand powder coatings, cureing paramaters, out gassing, masking techniques and basic metal cleanliness.
Four calipers and four caliper holding brackets should cost $500 minimum to powder coat them. There is a TON of hand labor involved in these things.
If you want to see powder coated calipers, go to the black market section and view the sticky to see Smittys calipers.
Just trying to save you guys some money and agrivation. But powder coating is the way to go, it lasts a lifetime, compared to all the guys here who have to repaint their calipers every year.
thanks for the clarification
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