Oh Yeah, I have a CAI and sure it will open up the CLS and acceleration is very noticeable wether on High Speed rolls (75-85) or from a dead stop.

But as everybody is aware, the braking power on the CLS is barely adequate to stop the 3600 lb CLS from High Speeds, say a panic stop from (85 to 0). I feel that CLS needs some 300FT to stop from those speeds (Stopping will take some heart-attack inducing 10-15 seconds!!

So, could you help find the solutions for the best cost effective and proven, for better stopping power!

Thanks.

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Black, Ebony, 3.2 CL Type-S.
- Acura NAV.
- 3M clear bra (full front bumper, and side mirros)
- Wheels locks
- Mooonroof visor
- Splash guards
- Winter mats
- Trunk liner
- Acura Spoiler
- Valentine V1 Radar Locator
- HELMS Service Manual
- PIAA 19169 road lamps
- 03/19/01: Injen Polished CAI

[This message has been edited by Nashua_Night_Hawk (edited 03-25-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Nashua_Night_Hawk (edited 03-25-2001).]

 

As a start, other than brembos:

I found this co:

http://www.wilwood.com/

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Black, Ebony, 3.2 CL Type-S.
- Acura NAV.
- 3M clear bra (full front bumper, and side mirros)
- Wheels locks
- Mooonroof visor
- Splash guards
- Winter mats
- Trunk liner
- Acura Spoiler
- Valentine V1 Radar Locator
- HELMS Service Manual
- PIAA 19169 road lamps
- 03/19/01: Injen Polished CAI

 

How about some upgraded brake lines. It really does make a difference..I think comptech makes them for the CL-S.

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Tw1112
CL 3.0 '98 - Cleared bumper, Hiper/Piaa/Polarg bulbs all around, PIAA 1700x fogs, AEM CAI, V1, and Mugen Pedals.

• My CL
• LA Autoshow
• SoCal Meet

 

On top of everything already mentioned, braided stainless steel lines will improve brake feel, to allow you to modulate better, which will let you make the best of the braking power that you have.

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051/LP/SR/LD/HH

 

I suggest green pads from EBC and stainless steel braided lines from Comptech.Jens

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1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on

 

You mean, goodridge, right? I'm having a set put together with the kevlar cover. They will be ready this week. My buddy used to put together all the stainless brake line kits for goodridge. He's going to put together a kit for the cl. If anyone is interested in a kit let me know.

 

I have the EBC greenstuff brake pads on my integra, the braking is slightly better, but they wear out really quick and they produce gobs of brake dust. I wouldn't buy them again. I had some metalmasters that I liked a lot better than the ebc's

 

I have OEM spec drilled and annodized rotors for your car...$299 front, $319 rear. Email me if interested.

 

One more thing I forgot to mention. If there is enough space in the area ahead of the wheelwells, you can duct air directly from a bumper opening to your brakes. The ram-air effect will help cool your brakes after repeated hard-brake-then-high-speed maneuvers, such as on a track.

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051/LP/SR/LD/HH

 

I have the braided lines by goodridge, they do add a lot of feeling to the pedal, but they don't really improve our piss poor braking performance...I think I'm gonna order the Brembo's from Tim this week...does anyone know if our front brake setup will work on the back of our car? Jens maybe?



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Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks

 

even if the front assemblies do work on the rear, I think you'd be giving up your parking brake. doesn't the cl/tl use a internal drum type parking brake setup?

'course, this isn't as much of a consideration with an automatic...

 

What you need is some fake cross drilled brake rotors! They work great! hehe j/k

[img]
http://www.riceboypage.com/shame/hal.../crx_wheel.jpg
[/img]

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'01 Silver::TYPE-S
::Navi/Spoiler::
::Comptech Springs::
::18"ADR Enigma & 225/40
::35%tint all around
::type-s license frame
::Muds
::Acura Winter Mats
::Polarg M-6

Click here for pics of my CL!


[This message has been edited by synth19 (edited 03-25-2001).]

 

Speaking of cracking....Will the brembo crossdrilled rotors brake as easily as others? I mean a 2000 dollar kit is a lot to pay for something that is going to crack. ??

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Tw1112
CL 3.0 '98 - Cleared bumper, Hiper/Piaa/Polarg bulbs all around, PIAA 1700x fogs, AEM CAI, V1, and Mugen Pedals.

• My CL
• LA Autoshow
• SoCal Meet

 

I'll have the lines in by the time we go up to Bakersfield. You're going up with us right? I'll post pics when I put them on. Probably late next week.

 

After the meltdown of my first set of pads (keep a count here cause my checkbook sure did) at CMP (Carolina Motorsports Park), I decided that wouldn't do (rotors were undamaged). I called Comptech and at the time they only had the metalmasters which by their accounts were a marginal improvement (I needed more cause a day and a half at the track and boiled fluid and boiled pads was a bad sign - it is a real tight track however see: http://www.cmpracetrack.com/track.htm). I went ahead and ordered some Motul 600 and SS-Lines (Goodridge). Unfortunately they considered CL-S SS-Lines to be those from an RL (nernt! they are several inches too long and SS Lines don't flex too easy to tie wrap them out of the way). Still got those if anyone wants a set.

So after a few calls I get in touch with Porterfield and much to my chagrin they got zippo. I talk them into making me a set (it was basically a modified TL pad front and an NSX pad rear) of Carbon Kevlar street/race pads. Sqealed like crazy on the street but I figured "eh whatever, they won't go away on me at the track next week" (main course @ http://www.virclub.com/pages/track_info.htm). Well, they did fine on that track so I thought the problem was fixed combination of Motul 600 fluid and the Porterfield Carbon Kevlars - schweet! Wrong, went back to CMP (mentioned above) and not only torched my pads (I mean friggin' popcorn) but since they were much harder than the OE's, they decided to cut a Joni Mitchel album on my rotors. Well, go buy a new set of OE pads and Rotors and everything was back in order. Then, buought an '87 Porsche 944-S for the track and retire the CL-S permanently from track duties. $1300 in brake expenses in three events made the Porchey purchase a no brainer.

In summary, buy the SS Lines if you plan on tracking the car. Their effect on the street will hardly be noticable (you need heat and lots of it to make your rubber lines swell sufficiently to affect hydraulic pressure - feel no difference on my 944 before and after). The Motul seems good, I use SuperBlue on the 944 at the track and it has been tremendous. The advantage of the SuperBlue is that it stores longer due to being in a metal vs. plastic container - it also costs marginally less. I ran Hawk HP+ on the Porsche a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed for a streetable pad. Once they bed they are very, very grippy. I swapped back out my OE's the night I got back and thought I had left a pad out - that much difference in stopping power. If Hawk makes an HPS or HP+ for our car (the CL) I would highly recommend them. I am not knocking the EBC pads, I have heard some good feedback on them as well.

Hope this helps and sorry for the length of the post.

Adam

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Drive it on the street. Race it on the track.

[This message has been edited by Phat-S (edited 03-25-2001).]