Hurleysurf24

OK guys i dont want to hack my 33000 dollars car to shreds.

Has anyone done this before, or can anyone help me do this?

I want to mount it in the sunglass holder.

Let me know.

Chopsie

You don't need a VAFC.
Our VTEC engagement point is set perfectly from the factory, as so I have read from Scalbert, and he is one of the people that when they say something like that, it is the gospel.

Now if your going to do it for looks then fine, but otherwise, you can lose power if your try to lower the VTEC engagment point in our cars.

Hurleysurf24

mhm ... thats funny my friend has one on his tl type s (same car i have) and his car is handling much better up top.

its not as jerky and just feels better

koolmonkey999

well i agree wit chopper cuz it seems like our vtec kicks in not too late and wen shifting gears while punching the car, we're always in vtec. we also have enough power and torque to push us into vtec so if there was any gains i think it would b very minimal...
juss my opinion tho...

Hurleysurf24

well i have different opinions .. ive seen actual dyno graphs after tunning the vafc

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

I was dropping out of VTEC from 1->2 upshift by approximately 400+ RPM. So I set it at 4,500, and now I stay in VTEC. Do I feel any gains? No. I just did it so that I can keep the VTEC going. Even if there were any gains, it would be minimal.

I'm waiting to get an exhaust system soon, and I'm going to get the V-AFC II dyno-tuned over the winter afterwards. Until then, the V-AFC II is just another display screen of my car's stats in the sunglasses holder.

Hurleysurf24

yep .. im basically getting it to monitor random stuff

but i want it so i will always be invtec after shifting

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

As for installing it --

The entire overhead console needs to come out. Pop off the cover over the lightbulbs, and you will find screws in there. Lower the sunglasses holder, and you will see screws in there. I believe there were a total of 4, if I remember correctly.

Now, remove the passenger side sun visor. The part where the visor pivots has two screws holding it in (I think there were two... It's been a few months since I've installed mine, so my memory's a bit hazy.)

Now take off the A-pillar cover. It simply pops off.

The headliner should be loose and you will be able to bring it down a little bit to run the V-AFC II wires through. Run them all the way down the A-pillar.

Now the tricky part -- there's an opening between the A-pillar and the dashboard. You will have to squeeze the wires through there. It's not easy, but not impossible. It just takes time.


As for the overhead console and the installation of the unit --

You will have to drill a hole in the upper part of the console to fit the V-AFC II wire harness through. It's rectangular shaped, so if you have a dremel, it's pretty easy.

I don't know what plans you have as far as integrating the unit into the sunglasses holder, but that's up to you. Here's what I did --






I used a dremel to cut out the bottom part, then wet-sanded to make it round and smooth. The way the holder was shaped, it was hindering my view. Then I used double-sided tape to secure it onto the soft pad in the holder. The only problem is that when I turn up the system, the subs send out way too much vibration, and the V-AFC II rattles. I'm about to get a foam pad and stick it between the unit the holder to reduce the vibrations and rattles.

Hope that helped. It's actually a fun project and took me about 2 and half hours total. Then soldering and finalizing took about another hour and a half or so.

Have fun.

Hurleysurf24

thats exactly what i want to do thanks

doid you need the extension cable? i hope not

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Do you mean the cable that comes with the unit? Yes, you do need it.

But even with that, it'll be too short to reach the PCM. You will have to buy some extra wires and lengthen them.

SCTL-SS

You may want to contact Jason at 'Speed Distributors' in Orlando. They are working on my car right now and it is coming out great and I have the E-manage.
BTW there is going to be a big Acura meet (50+ cars) at the shop this Saturday, you might want to consider bringing your car to the show and have them help you with your setup.

Hurleysurf24

no shit lol ... look at the top of the acura-tl thread and see who came up with the idea for it

btw 75+ cars

Chopsie

If using for monitoring, thats cool.

I don't understand Rob, how are you guys dropping out of VTEC when you shift ? are you not going as close to the limiter as possible before shifting. I know I don't if I get as close to the limiter as possible (6800-900 when in SS mode).

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

When I use SS or D5, the 1->2 upshifts at 6300 RPM (ridiculous), according to the V-AFC II.


It started doing that after a trip to the dealership for a brake problem, and I swear they did something wrong. But there's no way for me to prove it.

Chopsie

6300!!!!!!!!! that is lucid loss of top end RPM power

scalbert

Then something is wrong with your car. Your car should have smooth power delivery throughout. Don't look to an electronic device to band-aid existing problems.

And I can make a stock car dyno better in two hours. I would like to see the dyno though.

Point being, there is little to be gained with the VAFC. However, as Pure Adrenaline is using to maintain the hot lobe during an upshift, there might be a little value to it. But in raw power gains, there is not enough to notice a difference. In fact, I suspect that it may lose some when the ambient conditions change significantly.

evilone

^^^^^ i would listeb to this man he know what he is talking about

bug230

I may be puttin my car up for sale soon so I would consider selling you the set up.

Its custom molded/painted
I was able to get 10whp out of the tune all through the RPMs or at lest the dyno says.







BTW: Scalbert knows his stuff...listen to him.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

You're telling me, Chops. I'm pissed, but there's nothing I can do about it.



Steve --

I've got a question for ya. I noticed the early upshift after a trip to the dealership for a leak in the brake booster. After they replaced it, they didn't adjust the booster rod correctly, and there was constant pressure on the brakes. I got it taken care of, but I noticed that my car shifts into 5th gear at 46 mph now, instead of 45 like it used to before the incident.

My question is, if the rod is still off a little bit compared to before, therefore sending more pressure than previously, then could it affect the TCM to shift early under WOT?

In other words, imagine braking and applying gas at the same time. I've never tried it before, but in theory, could it cause an early upshift? Because if it could, then I'm going to have them readjust the booster rod.

I don't even want to ask them if they reprogrammed the PCM/TCM, because they will start giving me crap again, and blame it on my mods.

Hurleysurf24

if you notived earlier on i would like to use it for the upshift as well

Hurleysurf24

btw i just bought a vafc 2 for 175 bucks

scalbert

IMO, I would think that it would hold the gear longer as it would seem like to were going uphill thus using the grade logic.

Try resetting the ECU and go out for a few WOT starts and see if the shift charateristics change.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Right, I think that would explain why the 5th gear is engaging at 46 instead of 45 now. But as for the early upshift, it's the opposite. I just don't know what's causing it, other than the dealership reprogramming my PCM/TCM without telling me.