Has any of u dared to service the tranny?

If so, is it difficult? or relatively easy? i heard it was just like oil changes....are there special machines or equipment required to flush out the old oil?? procedures??

your comments would be much appreciated...thx

 

2 bolts and you are done...

It is a repetitve drains and refills (3 times, between each drive the car for like 5 min and use all gears) Usual, I do 1 drain (3Qrts of Honda ATF Z1 only)

You need like 10" ratchet extention and usual tools... even the drain plug does not need a spcial tool.. you can directly use the ratchet.


And buy couple washers from the dealer for few bucks...

 

what so u mean repetitive drain and refil? do i buy new oil...put it in, then drain it again?? Im sorry, can u please explain this process with more details? i dont wanna fuk up the tranny

 

Drain... put back the drain plug... fill 3 Qrts... put back the fill bolt... drive 5 min... use Gear 1 to 5 and reverse too....

The repeat 3 times... you need some 9Qrts total..

 

take fluid filler bolt off top of tranny, unscrew the top hose on my tranny cooler, turn car on/push brake and go through gears, let it drain into a milk jug, refill tranny fluid, repeat a few times, blah blah, re-attach top hose on tranny cooler, fill tranny, put bolt back on

the process is SOOO simple when you have a tranny coller don't even need to lift the car or anything at all

 

It would be pretty damn stupid to turn on the car change gears while at the same time the tranny is spiting out all the fluid....!!!

This is real bad and destructive!

Do not do it!

 

ummmm, no, it comes out slowly into the milk container. takes like two minutes to get a full gallon to come out

 

Use some Dexron III (3) ATF some people swear by the honda ATF but really any good Dexron III ATF will do. You don't need to replace the washers they don't wear out. You dont even need to jack the car up to drain it if you have a low profile oil drain container available at autozone/schucks/kragen for around $10. When the tranny fluid come out(quit calling it oil) it should look a dark red color. the tranny drain bolt has a magnet built into it and you should use a towell or similar to wipe the really small metal peices off the drain plug.(you don't want to put it back in with small metal shavings on it) duh!

Much cheaper than flushing and you should feel the difference after the first change(change it at least twice but three times is better).

Good luck!

 

why are you changing the tranny oil? the manual states that you should change it at 75k miles. if the color of the fluid is black then go to your dealership and demand they change the fluid under warranty. especially with all these tranny problems they will probably do it for free!

sidemarker

 

Umm Sidemarker, what planet have you been on? 75k?!? are you nutz?

30k is for harsh conditions, and usually applies to most vehicles out there that experience frequent stop-and-go. TRANNY DEBACLE suggests otherwise and earlier than 30k would be good, somewhere from 20-25k.

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=96666

 

i heard it was bad to add additional shit to the tranny...such as a cooler and misc.

 

no, it depends on the size of the cooler. you don't want to get a cooler that is TOO BIG
read about it all in the "extreamly useful topics" forum

 

with added capacity of the ATF cooler... do you add more ATF fluid than specs?

 

in the manual page 210

for normal conditions replace transimission fluid--120,000 miles or 10 years, then every 90,000 miles or 5 years

page 212

for severe conditions--60,000 miles or 3 years, then every 30,000 miles or 2 years

i believe i got 75k miles from the honda accord manual, but bottom line most people drive between normal and severe conditions so i think 75k or 4 years is a good time to change the tranny fluid.

the point im trying to make is this- the manual states that the tranny fluid should be changed at 60,000 or 120,000 depending on the conditions and the tranny extended warranty stipulates to follow the the maintenace schedule in the owners manual.

So there should be no reason to change the tranny fluid at 30,000 or even 45,000 miles UNLESS, the the color or charcteristic of the fluid is not what it is normally suppose to be, which to me sounds like WARRANTY WORK.

does this make sense??

sidemarker

 

Helllo nurse! whos the one on the far right?

 

The filler bolt can be a bitch. You need a good socket, and extension. Mine was very tight.

 

Hey Bro,

U know I really think that u can go with the biggest tranny cooler that B&M has, as long as it is not the racing cooler and be good. The B&M's have a bypass valve that only allows hot fluid through, so fluid will always stay at a constant warm, not hot, temp. So with tranny coolers and B&Ms, my opinion is the bigger the better.








Juker008

 

Yup, I wish I could tell u what kind of ammount to put in. I think that the cooler states the capacity of fluid it holds.










Juker008

 

Stick with Honda ATF, keep your sales receipt. I would not risk losing the 7 year/100k tranny warranty.

I had my dealer do a drain at 30k (not a flush). They MARKED the drain bolt with paint/dye. I guess if the tranny dies they'll see if I did any draining myself and debate any warranty work.


BTW, What brand cooler kit does Comptech sell? What are people buying, where, how much? I would like to get one.

 

24,000GVW, it is the largest one that B&M sells that has a bypass valve, next to the Racing tranny cooler (no bypass valve).







Juker008

 

The Comptech cooler is 11" wide, 5 3/4" tall, and 3/4" thick. It has a Canadian pattent stamped on the mounting flange. I blew in both ends and the air went right thru, so I guess there is no check valve. They "highly recomend Red Line High Temp ATF" in their install instructions.

 

Do u mean by-pass valve or check valve. If u are refering to the by-pass valve, it doesn't work like a termostat, it works more like a washer with a small hole in it. Once tranny fluid is up to operatin temp then it thins out and passing through the by-pass valve. No flame just inquiring .









Juker008

 

I do it every 15K, isn't any harder then an oil change

 

FYI ... www.hparts.com under "specials" section
z1 trans oil $2.89 /qt with shipping a case of 12 it was $3.35/qt deliverd to my door...

 

I haven't heard anyone mention a filter. Is there not a tranny filter?

 

Is there a good site to buy online or should I go to a local parts store?

Are there any negatives to having an extra large cooler?

 

I was just trying to see if the Comptech cooler that came with the SC kit, has what you were tlalking about. I thought if i blew in one end, and got resistance, it would have one, but if it's a bypass, I guess that wouldn't work.

Does anyone know if the Compteck has the bypass valve?

 

Could anyone describe where these two bolts are. I think i have found the drain bolt, but where is the fill bolt. Someone said on the top of the tranny, is possible to be seen under the hood, or under the car. Sorry i have no clue about this stuff. Pics would be awesome.

Thanks

 

The fill bolt can be found from the top of the car, right side of the engine bay, on the top of the trans, kind of under the throttle body, slightly rear of the trans fluid dip stick. it has the letters"ATF" on it. I haven't looked for the drain yet.

 

When I get home I will PM u the address. Cheapest place that I have found so far. Cheaper than MSRP, but not that outragiously low price that u find for other stuff. But I will get u the address later.








Juker008

 

Yes the CT one is made by B&M, but the radiator is stamped with some name or inital of the manufacture of the radiator. B&M then assembles the parts and makes a kit that it then markets. So the answer to ur question is yes the CT one does have a by-pass valve.







Juker008

 

Isn't the drain at the bottom of the tranny? Or is there another place to mount the drain hose???









Juker008