My transmission is leaking again. The first time, they said the transmission was overfilled and replaced the clutch since it was soaked with oil.

I don't think you can overfill this transmission because the fill hole is usually on the side and doesn't let you fill in more oil than you're supposed to have.

What does everyone else think?

Thanks

 

Well I know that my '79 Toyota Wagon had that hole on the side that you are talking about....and once I had to have it opped off because it was making a "rattling-chain" like sound - it just needed the tranny fluid. And yes it was impossible to overfill since it just ran out the hole when it was happy happy

 

hmmmm i'll have to take a look but i havne't noticed anything.

 

I found one post with the same problem: http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=91024 (I get my car serviced at Los Gatos Acura too.)

 

I'll be damned, the tranny infestation from 01-02 must be leaking into the 6 speeds at local meets.

 

I accidentally posted to the thread you refrenced. The fill hole on these cars is on the top of the trans. THere is a check hole on the side but it could easily be overfilled if the check plug was not removed when the trans was filled.

 

I scheduled a service visit Monday morning so I'll update this when I get more information.

My 2nd gear notchiness and sloppy clutch engagement did go away after they fixed it the first time. The clutch problem is back now but 2nd gear isn't always notchy but its starting to happen more.

 

I was the one who started the post regarding my 15K trans leak on my 6sp. Here's an update:

Currently, I have 32,000 miles on the car. I brought the car into Los Gatos Acura for the 30K service. LGA told me to bring the car back for a trans check (since there's dye in the fluid for later diagnosis) at 30K, so I did. They found the same problem ... oil leaking/seeping around the trans housing, but not heavy enough to cause dripping. Upon closer inspection, it turned out to be a faulty rear main engine seal, not the transmission itself. The rear seal was replaced, the car test driven, and lo and behold ... no more oil leak. This is probably the same scenario that you're experiencing, so I'd definitely have the service tech check the rear main engine seal. Good luck.

 

The new oil on it looks clear so I'm not sure if its engine oil since its been about 6k since the last change.

 

I opened up the check screw last night. Just a couple drops came out at first but I let it drip for an hour or so and ended up with about a cup of extra oil in there. I guess if it was filled from the top and the check screw was put back on as soon as oil started coming out it could get over filled a bit. It takes a really long time for the oil to drip down to the right level. I took the car for a quick drive and didn't notice the shift quality being a whole lot different. Maybe a little better. I'll have to see how it does in the morning.

 

Dumb question -- does the check screw come with a crush washer that needs to be replaced, or a regular washer?

 

Yeah it has an aluminum washer similar to a drain plug. The screw is tiny (10 mm head). It's directly above the drain bolt which has a 1/2 square drive hole in it. It's on the front of the trans on the driver's side.

 

I've been tempted a few times (during oil changes and such) to check the level, but since I don't have any 10mm crush washers around I was hesitant...


I just re-looked at page 13-9 in the Helm manual and it says that the drain bolt, the check bolt, and the fill bolt all have washers that should be replaced after unscrewing (steps #3, #6, and #7).

 

I just re-used the old one. On my oil drain plugs I usually replace them after they've been on and off a few times. Probably best to replace but I've never had a leak with a re-used washer.

 

I'd be very cautious about reusing a crush washer. The crush washer allows you to torque the bolt down properly without causing any undue stress on the bolt threads. Reusing a crush washer eliminates the ability to prevent that stress as you torque down a bolt. Over time (especially if one reuses crush washers a lot), the threads "weaken" and one day, you'll find that you cannot turn the bolt freely by hand; you'll encounter minor to major resistance. And once this happens... you'll either need to buy a new trans casing, or if you have the right tools, re-thread the existing hole and purchase a slightly larger bolt to fit the new hole.

 

Haven't noticed any leaks yet. But I'll be keeping a closer eye on it now.

 

gasket?

 

Here's my update: The dealer said that there was excess oil in the transmission breather(?) so it leaked out. They cleaned everything off and made sure the levels were right. It was probably overfilled since ChadT mentioned that it takes a while for excess oil to come out of the check hole.

Clutch engagement is better now and 2nd gear hasn't been notchy yet.

 

Roleez.... relax re. the bolt man ... I found the oil drain bolt 'issue' unnerving a while back... Yet we are not talking Korean or Malaisian quality here ... as long as we do not over-torque it by too much - the bolt and the washer should last a lifetime of a car, i.e. anywhere from 3-8 years roughly, right ?

As for worst case... I think twice in my life I broke the bolts by over-torquing them... please relax - no need to replace the case or the oil pan... a simply 'tool' in Pep boys or the like will UNSCREW the remainder in the thread. It is truly an INGENIOUS device for dumbAsses such as myself .. i.e. imagine a sharp-edge screw, yet with the completely OPPOSITE thread and the momentum... you stick one in your drill... and drill that sucker out!! It's hard to imagine, until you look at it.. but the thing that works is that by spinning the drill clockwise.. the screw actually turns COUNTER-CLOCKWISE... And which 'sizes' I got about for 10 different bolt sizes - you better believe it ... So we are OK.. even if such an unthinkable feat happens...
Perhaps someone else could describe this in more technical terms... If anyone needs exact spec/name.. I shall dig it out.. and let them know.

$.03

 

While I agree that these are minor issues, I do respect any crush washers and replace them when they are used once.

Sure, there are plenty of stories about people re-using crush washers indefinitely, but this does go against the engineer's intent on why the crush washer is included. Crush washers protect the drain pan threads (or in this case the transmission case threads) from deforming during bolt tightening.

The crush washer deforms when the bolt is torqued up, simple as that. It's designed for one time use.

Once you strip the threads, how are going to get to Pep Boys with a leaking transmission case or oil pan?

Your $0.03 that you spent on your opinion could have been more effectively used to buy a crush washer instead of haggling with retrieving broken bolts or repairing/replacing drain pans.

 

Slimey... are all the good ID names were taken ? how about SlightlyOverTorquedWasher ? Relax man... I WRITE SPECS to scare shitless dudes as yourself . There is nothing stands for experience. To give you an example... I am a watch buff... and there is always an arugument of whether 'service' the watch.. per original spec.. or not... I say.. do it when it NEEDS servicing.. only because there is no guaranteed factory environment.. and techs can mess things up.. more then they service...
do whatever works for your psyche ... you want to change them - change them... i and my other pals will change them the 2nd or 3rd time around... because we trust our judgement. Also.. should I not have overtorqued that time.. I would never know re. the tools... - why don't you just say.. thank you.. that I could save you an hour or two.... as we all do here... by sharing ... Peace...

$.03 - especially for you .

 

I'm all for replacing crush washers but their purpose is to provide a seal. They are not a torque limiting device. The only bolts on a car that have crush washers are ones the have to seal when tightened. There are many bolts that screw direcly on to the trans case and engine block that don't use crush washers. (Grounds for instance). Crush washers do deform when they are tightened. This is so they will conform to the surface and provide a seal. The torque value will not change due to re-using a washer. It may not seal as well and should be replaced but if the correct torque value is used the bolt and threads will not be adversely affected.

 

My misunderstanding then. :o I thought that they were used to prevent problems on the threads of the bolt's receptacle on places that undergo frequent bolt removal and retorquing.

Still, they're pretty cheap and apart from inconvenience of keeping a few on hand, I'll keep changing them when I remove these bolts.

 

Yes better safe than leaky. There are some bolts that stretch when torqued to their limit. These will definitly cause problems if not replaced. Usually on heads/rods etc.