Sims

well after doing some reading around on here I opted for just modding my airbox, and getting a K&N Filter, instead of dishing out $300 for a CAI or Icebox.

So anywyas, I took out the resonator - and no you DONT have to remove the front bumper to do this. Took me all of 20 minutes to get it out after getting the wheel well liner out of the way. Threw in the K&N and was good to go. Noticed a definite butt dyno difference. Nothing monumental but seems to rev a bit smoother/quicker and shift at a bit higher mph.. anyhow.. considering the cost I'd say it was well worth it.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

That's how I run.

Titand19

you my friend are a pioneer

GreenMonster

I'd really be interested to see what this runs on the dyno...

CT's cold air box dyno numbers are well known, but no one has ever run the numbers on the K&N w/o the resonator vs. the stock setup...

<--- has K&N, just has to get motivated to remove the resonator... Joe from Warwick showed me the trick to get it out w/o removing the bumper...

Sims

Go for it, was very simple.. 1 bolt.. 2 plastic body plugs - then 3 bolts on the resonator.. done.

as a side note mine was full of bugs and leaves.

cltypeSLOW

i have the resonator removed and a piece of aluminum dryer hose fitted to a PVC coupling which is jammed into the airbox. the end of the hose is aimed right out in front of the radiator to get a direct shot of cold air through the bumper opening. it sounds kinda ricerish , but i think it serves great function. plus you cant see any of the piping or any of that anyways cause i have it hidden in the bumper.

IMO its better than the CT box cause your getting air from outside the car and not inside the bumper. ill try and post pics up if anyone wants to see

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

ross help me install the "ghetto box" on my car. personally it's a great idea and way to save some cash (to spend on other mods).

Louie11

I did this mod 5 years ago. Never posted pics so here yea go. I did finally get rid of it and now have a "ram air " comptech ice box.

Sun Diego CL-S

^:rofl.

so i take it that it's cost effective.

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

Did that ribbed air tube ever make a whistling sound like those ribbed straws do when you blow through them? Just curious.

Louie11

I don't think so, But I never let anyone drive my car so I don't know what it really sounded like from the outside. The tubing is from JL audio for making flexible ports for ported enclosure boxes with tight dimensions. I don't think they would want whistling in their sub boxes. The sound is agressive like a aem intake. If you put your hand in front of the hole you can actually feel sucking from the engine. You feel the most gain when moving and in the summer months since you are getting the coldest air possible and it's being forced instead of scavenging for it.

SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

I'm all over this mod. I was thinking about doing this when I took my Weapon-R off and put the stock air box back on minus the resonator. Great picts, too. I'm curious though if the plastic that normally blocks where the opening is a removalbe plastic plate or is it one piece and you have to cut it out of the plastic insert?

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

The insert is all one piece, you'd have to cut it out

TallyCL-S

Just curious, was water entering that area ever a concern? Also, why did you opt for the Comptech CAI instead of keeping this setup, did you notice a difference?

TallyCL-S

+1 for pics

Lord Helmet

I've had the Injen as well as the K&N+resonator delete and honestly, after doing the swap, I almost want to say the K&N setup felt a little better. It could all be in my head though. Considering where the fresh air is coming from out of the stock airbox, I would imagine it's just as good. BTW, I had the K&N setup AFTER the Injen. I traded another member straigh across when I was trying to sell the car.

Stealth CL

did you guys take off that tube that sticks straight down too? cuz i did. along with the u shaped tube in front of the box.

Lord Helmet

I had everything below the airbox removed.

Louie11

I was never conerned with water. I would of had to submerged my front bumper to ingest water. Just the splashing of rain could never make it up the pipe and past the filter.

As far as butt dyno I noticed a difference. I will hopefully be dynoing again next month. The only thing I have changed since my last dyno is the "ice box " and "thermal block spacers". The spacers don't really give any hp it just helps keep the hp you had. So it should be a good test to see if the comptech is better than my setup. I think it should, now if it's going to be a substantial amount is another story. The comptech just has a smoother flow of air.

Stealth CL

me too, you take the filter out, and nothing else is below it....i was just curious if others did the same or just removed the box in the well.

Sims

I just took out the box and left the "downtube" thingy

cltypeSLOW

the downtube curves back up though doesnt it?

Sims

I honestly didnt really pay to much attention to that part. looks like one tube goes forward and one goes down (that use to go to resonator)

All Mine

I took every thing out, and have just a cone filter attached to the IM snout.

Just kidding. I actually have the resonator removed with K&N filterrrrr

TallyCL-S

It looks like it goes forward, but it really goes back up. Today I removed all of it, super easy, took honestly 8-10 minutes w/o ramps. I used 3" x 4" rubber sewer hose seal to replace the rubber part that connected the OEM U-shaped tube to the air box and ran rv sewer tubing to connect the stock air box to the front area with the tube. I have it hung on the inside via zip ties (a little ghetto, but the zip ties fit perfectly between the ribs of the tubing). I am going to contemplate a bypass type valve because I am worried about water getting sucked up, perhaps a ring-type-ish filter higher up in the tubing.

cltypeSLOW

LOLOLOLLOLOLOL you know i have actually seen someone do that to a civic

zigzagzig

anybody have a link to a DIY for the resonator removal without front bumper removal? I did a couple searches and I came up with dead ends. The original website that had the DIY is out of order it seems. Also, has anyone come up with a solution to the humming noise?

BigLizard

CLS Front Bumper Removal DIY

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183710

check that out and you might find this to be easy to remove the resonator...

or if you have small hands, just remove the tire and fender well and you'll see to bolts...remove those...10mm i think for all three...(12mm usage maybe) the last bolt is a pain because you have to situate yourself so you can get the feel for taking it off...unless...you want to go the other route and remove the bumper.

TallyCL-S

-Turn the driver's side wheel all the way to the left.

-Under the front right of the car, in front of the wheel, there is one bolt and two of those plugs you need to undo.

-In the wheel well, undo some of those plugs that hold the liner in place, there are 3(maybe 4) that can come out. Pull the liner out from the bumper, it won't come completely out, but it will give you more than enough room to get to the three bolts holdin the resonator.

-One bolt is in the front of the resonator(it runs parallel to the body of the car), you can feel it with your hand under the bumper or you can just put your head under to see it. A 10mm socket will remove all the necessary bolts.

-The bolt on the back of the resonator can be seen from peeking in through the exposed wheel well.

-To get to the top bolt, just feel the top of the resonator and undo it.

-Once all of the bolts are undone, just pull the resonator out. If you want to take the U-tube thing out, just pull it straight down after the resonator is out.

It may seem intimidating, but it is a piece of cake once you are down there. It took me a max of 10 minutes to remove all the plugs and have the resonator out and I am not very mechanically inclined.

TallyCL-S

Damn 5 minute time limit owned me. To get the little plastic plugs out, I used a flat-head screw driver to ease them out, didn't break one.

BigLizard

Those plastic pieces suck...I broke a whole bunch....lol

TallyCL-S

lol, just slide the flathead into the sides and pull them out :-P

BigLizard

I know that now...didn't know that 5 months ago...

zigzagzig

so is the general consensus that if you leave the u shaped tubing underneath, the resonance is minimal? and if the resonance is unbearable, is it just the opposite set of directions to reinstall the resonator?

TallyCL-S

I have my u-tube removed and I really don't think resonance is too much of an issue (at least for me it isn't, I like the sound).

Sims

Personal preference for leaving it or not.. I think if your gonna take the the U shape tub out you should probably put a hose to the front of the car or something for cooler air.. Mine soudns fine with the U think still in there. maybe a bit louder at higher RPMS but nothing crazy. And TallyCL-S did the same thing I did to remove it.. I took off my tire though =P

cltypeSLOW

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183972

zigzagzig

ok i just took out the resonator, but the u-tube thing seems to just hang there. The tube just fits semi-snug into the rubber gasket leading to the airbox. It looks like it'll bang around when going over bumps, so I'm going to keep it up there with some fishing line or something i guess...

zigzagzig

update: the fishing line idea doesn't seem to be a good one considering movement would probably eventually cut it, so I don't know what other people did. Just fit it into the rubber gasket as far up as possible and forget about it?

zigzagzig

Also, I should have thought of this before I took the tire off, but the strut decompressed so now my dumbass is trying to figure out a way to get the tire back on without having to call a friend to help. Any ideas?