air conditioning question...

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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 02:24 AM
  #1  
davematthews-CL-S's Avatar
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From: houston, tx, usa
air conditioning question...

maybe i'm the only lucky one with this problem: the a/c is on, nice and cold, i floor the petal and the are coming out becomes just air, no cold. i just had the air conditioning clutch replaced because the car was making noises at idle, but i'm still having the "no cold" problem. anyone else?

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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 02:35 AM
  #2  
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From: San Rafael, CA USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by davematthews-CL-S:
maybe i'm the only lucky one with this problem: the a/c is on, nice and cold, i floor the petal and the are coming out becomes just air, no cold. i just had the air conditioning clutch replaced because the car was making noises at idle, but i'm still having the "no cold" problem. anyone else?
</font>
In my experience (with the CL and others), when you "floor it", the A/C compressor will be "by-passed" or "dis-engaged" so as to not take away power. When you "release" the accelerator, the A/C should go back to normal cooling ...



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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:02 AM
  #3  
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Speaking of air conditioning, does anyone know what the horsepower loss is when running? I've always wondered due to how much more sluggish the car is when it's on.

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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:45 AM
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The a/c compressor is not made to run at high revs. It is deactivated after certain RPMs.
This is normal and common in many cars.
Having said that, you should always turn the a/c off before diong some spirited driving.

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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 10:39 AM
  #5  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Red Rider:
Speaking of air conditioning, does anyone know what the horsepower loss is when running? I've always wondered due to how much more sluggish the car is when it's on.

</font>
In the old days, the general rule of thumb is 10 hps for the A/C. It is not a small loss, but again this loss is at WOT. Therefore you would not notice it during normal driving.

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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 01:31 PM
  #6  
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sled dog is right, depending on the car. my licoln continetal would not give up the AC no matter how hard I pressed it. Priority in that car was passenger comfort, whereas our car is more performance oriented. I can't even express to you how much my old car died with the AC on.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by lead_sled_dog:
Originally posted by davematthews-CL-S:
maybe i'm the only lucky one with this problem: the a/c is on, nice and cold, i floor the petal and the are coming out becomes just air, no cold. i just had the air conditioning clutch replaced because the car was making noises at idle, but i'm still having the "no cold" problem. anyone else?
</font>
In my experience (with the CL and others), when you "floor it", the A/C compressor will be "by-passed" or "dis-engaged" so as to not take away power. When you "release" the accelerator, the A/C should go back to normal cooling ...



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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 02:37 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Beach-CL:
The a/c compressor is not made to run at high revs. It is deactivated after certain RPMs.
This is normal and common in many cars.
Having said that, you should always turn the a/c off before diong some spirited driving.

</font>

Wrong. The A/C comp is capable of turning at max engine rpms all day. It is not deactivated due to any rpm. It does disengage momentarily during WOT to eliminate parasitic drag on the engine and allow more engine power to propel the car.


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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:02 PM
  #8  
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"The A/C comp is capable of turning at max engine rpms all day."
Really?
I don't know where you got this info. but you can go ahead and do that if you car allows it.

The first thing to go will probably be the clutch engaging and disengaging at high RPMs if allowed, not to mention other moving parts inside.
This is not an alternator we are talking about.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tom2:

Wrong. The A/C comp is capable of turning at max engine rpms all day. It is not deactivated due to any rpm. It does disengage momentarily during WOT to eliminate parasitic drag on the engine and allow more engine power to propel the car.


</font>


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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:02 PM
  #9  
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Beach-CL:
"The A/C comp is capable of turning at max engine rpms all day."
Really?
I don't know where you got this info. but you can go ahead and do that if your car allows it.

The first thing to go will probably be the clutch engaging and disengaging at high RPMs if allowed, not to mention other moving parts inside.
This is not an alternator we are talking about.



</font>


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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:22 PM
  #10  
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From: New York
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Beach-CL:
"The A/C comp is capable of turning at max engine rpms all day."
Really?
I don't know where you got this info. but you can go ahead and do that if you car allows it.

The first thing to go will probably be the clutch engaging and disengaging at high RPMs if allowed, not to mention other moving parts inside.
This is not an alternator we are talking about.



</font>
Okay, try this:

Put your car into SS mode with your a/c off. Now bring the rpms up close to redline and hold them there (in whatever gear you choose).

Now turn on the a/c.

Wow, it worked! For some strange reason, the a/c compressor will engage at a very high rpm.

Sorry, but your theory is shot down, bud.



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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:32 PM
  #11  
Beach-CL's Avatar
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
"Now bring the rpms up close to redline and hold them there (in whatever gear you choose)."

Yeah right! You try that on yours kid.

Your sig. will soon read:

proud owner of a Hundai
dead 99 M3
dead CL-S

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tom2:
Okay, try this:

Put your car into SS mode with your a/c off. Now bring the rpms up close to redline and hold them there (in whatever gear you choose).

Now turn on the a/c.

Wow, it worked! For some strange reason, the a/c compressor will engage at a very high rpm.

Sorry, but your theory is shot down, bud.

</font>


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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:34 PM
  #12  
JRock's Avatar
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LOL

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">. i just had the air conditioning clutch replaced because the car was making noises at idle,</font>
Hmm I wonder if that's the noise I'm hearing. Maybe not though, since the A/C isn't on when I hear the noise in my engine block area.

-J

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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 03:50 PM
  #13  
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From: New York
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Beach-CL:
"Now bring the rpms up close to redline and hold them there (in whatever gear you choose)."

Yeah right! You try that on yours kid.

Your sig. will soon read:

proud owner of a Hundai
dead 99 M3
dead CL-S



</font>
Okay, whatever. I now see that I'm dealing with somebody that is totally ignorant about cars. Did you ever stop to think that ANY car should not have a problem running just under redline? Even sustained running.
If yours does, then you have not maintained it properly/have really high mileage/or just have a piece of shit for a car.

Do you know why engineers even put a redline on the tach? Do you think that they just choose the redline at random? (Hmmmm, this S2000 should have the redline at 5000 rpm, nah, let's make it 9000 rpm)

By the way, if my M3 died, I'd get another. And learn how to spell "Hyundai" if you're gonna use it in your post.

But back to the topic-- You're severely misinformed about automotive a/c compressors. Instead of trying to make yourself look intelligent, next time try doing a little research about the subject before offering bullshit advice.

You'll look less like a fool than you do now, bud.



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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 04:01 PM
  #14  
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Thought we were talking a/c here. I don't see any redlining in the initial post.

I am sooo sorry for missing the "y" on Hyundai, gee kid, it's time to remove that stick up you butt.

You have a very nice car in the M3 hope you enjoy it for a long time.


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tom2:
Okay, whatever. I now see that I'm dealing with somebody that is totally ignorant about cars. Did you ever stop to think that ANY car should not have a problem running just under redline? Even sustained running.
If yours does, then you have not maintained it properly/have really high mileage/or just have a piece of shit for a car.

Do you know why engineers even put a redline on the tach? Do you think that they just choose the redline at random? (Hmmmm, this S2000 should have the redline at 5000 rpm, nah, let's make it 9000 rpm)

By the way, if my M3 died, I'd get another. And learn how to spell "Hyundai" if you're gonna use it in your post.

But back to the topic-- You're severely misinformed about automotive a/c compressors. Instead of trying to make yourself look intelligent, next time try doing a little research about the subject before offering bullshit advice.

You'll look less like a fool than you do now, bud.

</font>


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Old Jun 29, 2001 | 04:05 PM
  #15  
Tom2's Avatar
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From: New York
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Beach-CL:
Thought we were talking a/c here. I don't see any redlining in the initial post.

</font>
Yeah, that's right. But YOU said the the a/c will shut down during high rpm. I just told you to try turning it on at high rpm to see what happens......

Like I said, you're misinformed. Don't try to be a know-it-all, unless you actually know something about the subject that you're offering advice.



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Old Jun 30, 2001 | 01:21 AM
  #16  
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From: houston, tx, usa
poop

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