View Poll Results: Performance Radius Rod Bushings Poll
Yes, I'd be all over this
6
60.00%
Maybe, depends on costs
4
40.00%
No, not interested
0
0%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll
Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll
#81
Yes, I agree. I guess what I was questioning was the vertical size of the Moogs vs the OEMs. From the bushing picture that richardparker provided above, it appears that the Moogs are slightly larger, vertically, as they would sit one their base. Which, inturn, would explain the increased size of the collar provided by Moog.
A picture of the Moog bushings vs OEMs, like richardparkers collar picture side-by-side, would prove/disprove the point I'm trying to articulate via text.
A picture of the Moog bushings vs OEMs, like richardparkers collar picture side-by-side, would prove/disprove the point I'm trying to articulate via text.
#82
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
With the comparison in the picture above it clearly shows they are all practically the same height. The Moog height was deceiving my perception at the other angles in previous pictures because of the flared lip.
Therefore, since I reused the OEM collar, which is shorter, when I replaced my OEM's with ES, they will be under additional compression in comparison to the increased collar lengths provided by Moog. Interesting.
brian6speed, which one are you going to try on your car?
Last edited by zeta; 09-01-2011 at 09:05 PM.
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CLSspeedx (09-14-2011)
#83
Senior Moderator
Yes, that is perfect, thanks.
With the comparison in the picture above it clearly shows they are all practically the same height. The Moog height was deceiving my perception at the other angles in previous pictures because of the flared lip.
Therefore, since I reused the OEM collar, which is shorter, when I replaced my OEM's with ES, they will be under additional compression in comparison to the increased collar lengths provided by Moog. Interesting.
brian6speed, which one are you going to try on your car?
With the comparison in the picture above it clearly shows they are all practically the same height. The Moog height was deceiving my perception at the other angles in previous pictures because of the flared lip.
Therefore, since I reused the OEM collar, which is shorter, when I replaced my OEM's with ES, they will be under additional compression in comparison to the increased collar lengths provided by Moog. Interesting.
brian6speed, which one are you going to try on your car?
#84
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The TL/CL RR collars share the same OEM part number. So, your OEM collars should be the same length as my reused CL-S6's. Now, with the modified RR durometer ratings currently available via the aftermarket, Moog engineers probably calculated, somewhere along the line, that an increased collar length was needed to get that sweet spot between performance and luxury.
Anyway, IMHO, this mod is one of the best ones to come along in awhile. I wish I could of experimented with the energy suspension LCA bushings discussed in the thread below; however, I just replaced them, so I will have to wait.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/front-lower-arm-bushing-compatability-possibility-830344/
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CLSspeedx (09-14-2011)
#86
3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
iTrader: (7)
I think they were 40 something at stores.
and 30 something off ebay.
I've been noticing my ride has gotton a bit more ruff hiting bumps and might be going back to oem to check out the difference.
so bad that it sounds like the dash is hitting the bumps not the tires
and 30 something off ebay.
I've been noticing my ride has gotton a bit more ruff hiting bumps and might be going back to oem to check out the difference.
so bad that it sounds like the dash is hitting the bumps not the tires
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CLSspeedx (09-14-2011)
#91
Senior Moderator
I have about 4k miles already on mine So far so good. I really like them Front end is much better.
#92
Pro
iTrader: (3)
I got a low thud/snap noise now and I'm thinking it's either the RR bushings or front bolt(s). The noise happens mostly at LOW speeds of between 0-30mph (backing out of the driveway - curb lip, humps in the road, etc).
endlinks are new, just installed about 2 weeks ago, but one of the Moog's rubber caps were split before even putting them on (only on the passenger side where I have the noise).
By the sounding of it, I'll be doing the RR bushings regardless...seems well worth it.
#93
Senior Moderator
Did you ever replace the OEM sleeves with the Moogs?
I got a low thud/snap noise now and I'm thinking it's either the RR bushings or front bolt(s). The noise happens mostly at LOW speeds of between 0-30mph (backing out of the driveway - curb lip, humps in the road, etc).
endlinks are new, just installed about 2 weeks ago, but one of the Moog's rubber caps were split before even putting them on (only on the passenger side where I have the noise).
By the sounding of it, I'll be doing the RR bushings regardless...seems well worth it.
I got a low thud/snap noise now and I'm thinking it's either the RR bushings or front bolt(s). The noise happens mostly at LOW speeds of between 0-30mph (backing out of the driveway - curb lip, humps in the road, etc).
endlinks are new, just installed about 2 weeks ago, but one of the Moog's rubber caps were split before even putting them on (only on the passenger side where I have the noise).
By the sounding of it, I'll be doing the RR bushings regardless...seems well worth it.
#94
Recently turned 18
So to recap...what would be a good list of what ALL to order to cure this mystery bump? Once I get back from Aghanistan I HAVE to do this. Sometimes the car sounds really bad, especially on DC streets.
Apologize if someone posted that list already.
Apologize if someone posted that list already.
#95
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I finally installed the Energy Suspension bushings. I dont know why I didnt do this 40k miles ago. My old, most likely OE bushings were doughing. Everything up front feels tighter and the car feels glued to the road more.
But, I do have to add that when I installed these I also put in new lower control arms, sway bar bushings, and MOOG sway bar end links. Still, the front end feels 100x better.
But, I do have to add that when I installed these I also put in new lower control arms, sway bar bushings, and MOOG sway bar end links. Still, the front end feels 100x better.
#96
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the feedback!
#98
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
richardparker was the only one who commented that reused the OEM collars with the Moogs and he stated, in little detail, that he had a problem.
fsttyms1 on the TL side used the slightly longer collars that came with the Moogs and he has had no problems and likes the improvement they added to his setup.
If you look at the pictures above that brian6speed supplied of all of the RR bushings they all appear to be the same size, so I'm not sure that reusing the OEMs with the Moogs would be problematic.
Last edited by zeta; 10-13-2011 at 07:06 AM.
#99
Pro
iTrader: (3)
Yeah, richardparker using OEM = back to clunking
Everyone else that I read did the replacement used Moog collars and all was good.
I'd stick with whatever collars some with Moog. I think the bushing material is what plays a role in the needed length of collar (in terms of compression).
Everyone else that I read did the replacement used Moog collars and all was good.
I'd stick with whatever collars some with Moog. I think the bushing material is what plays a role in the needed length of collar (in terms of compression).
#100
3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
iTrader: (7)
I had a problem with the moogs with the sleeves that came with them 1st. They would not tighten down enough.
So loose that after being tightend I could grab the front screw and move the radius rod.
So I went with a shorter sleeve to make it tight. I did make it tight but still kept getting knocking.
Went to new oem everything to the lock nut and it seams to be easyier over bumps but their is still a light knocking every once in awhile.
I'm leaning towards another issue perhaps is causing my noise.
I know I've been having a axle noise and I think my motor mounts are about due to be replaced.
On that note my next pieces I will get will most likely be a pair of axles and some mounts.
So loose that after being tightend I could grab the front screw and move the radius rod.
So I went with a shorter sleeve to make it tight. I did make it tight but still kept getting knocking.
Went to new oem everything to the lock nut and it seams to be easyier over bumps but their is still a light knocking every once in awhile.
I'm leaning towards another issue perhaps is causing my noise.
I know I've been having a axle noise and I think my motor mounts are about due to be replaced.
On that note my next pieces I will get will most likely be a pair of axles and some mounts.
#101
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I reused all OEM hardware with the Energy Suspension bushings.
#103
Senior Moderator
#106
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Thats how mine was. Only the two large washers on either side. Thats how my old Prelude and Civic was too.
#107
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If you installed them yourself, a noticeable increase in the stiffness of travel at the LCA should have been evident (over the OEMs) when making the connections. I noticed it right away. Then the drive really confirmed it.
#108
Pro
iTrader: (3)
When you get it aligned, if the caster falls into spec, then that is a good thing. Mine did not have any shims from the factory as well.
If you installed them yourself, a noticeable increase in the stiffness of travel at the LCA should have been evident (over the OEMs) when making the connections. I noticed it right away. Then the drive really confirmed it.
If you installed them yourself, a noticeable increase in the stiffness of travel at the LCA should have been evident (over the OEMs) when making the connections. I noticed it right away. Then the drive really confirmed it.
Just drove it and my RATTLE/CLANK/POP is GONE!!! So happy this was a cheap fix. I was unsure if it was one of the control arms (upper or lower) or the RR...but eventually I heard the noise more on acceleration or letting off the gas. So I went with the cheapest solution + gut.
And as everyone has said, I noticed a huge difference in stiffness/driving. Thanks zeta for the instructions + side notes. Worked perfectly.
EDIT: I used the Moog ones + Moog hardware.
#109
Pro
iTrader: (3)
Reporting back to inform anyone who changes them: BE SURE TO GET NEW RADIUS ROD BUSHING NUTS!!
I had a bad noise, when I had to hard brake twice, the wheel was rubbing the back of my wheel well + you could see the wheel sitting closer to the back of the wheel well while parked.
I jacked the car up, and as soon as I took off the splash shield the passenger side old nut, front-half bushing, AND center cylinder FELL TO THE GROUND! The RR shaft had worn a half-moon circle in the frame and it was slightly frayed (if that's the right word). Driver's side was slightly loose as well. I torqued them back and within the next few days, I bought brand new ones. The new ones have plastic at the end of the nut threading, old ones did NOT. Torqued properly, the new nuts should not be able to come off at all.
I had a bad noise, when I had to hard brake twice, the wheel was rubbing the back of my wheel well + you could see the wheel sitting closer to the back of the wheel well while parked.
I jacked the car up, and as soon as I took off the splash shield the passenger side old nut, front-half bushing, AND center cylinder FELL TO THE GROUND! The RR shaft had worn a half-moon circle in the frame and it was slightly frayed (if that's the right word). Driver's side was slightly loose as well. I torqued them back and within the next few days, I bought brand new ones. The new ones have plastic at the end of the nut threading, old ones did NOT. Torqued properly, the new nuts should not be able to come off at all.
#110
Quarantuning
iTrader: (4)
Installed!
Installed a set of energy suspension radius rod bushing earlier this week. What a difference they made. So happy I finally got them installed as I had them in a box for a month... I took pics of the install and old parts but they mysteriously vanished from my phone. I can tell you that my old bushings were totally deformed. The passenger side was almost flat as a pancake, and was starting to come apart. The inside of all the bushings were grooved out pretty deep as well. Also the outsides had changed shape too.
I only have 65k on the car but with the mods I have it was time to change them anyway.
The radius rod bushings are the weak link for sure. Overall the car feels better in just about every aspect. Most obvious was the improvement in braking. Without the front wheels moving around as much the brakes seem to grab with more authority. It might just be me but the suspension feels a tad bit softer. The suspension seems to soak up the bumps more rapidly now that the wheels are under more control.
Looking at the suspension geometry more closely from underneath during the install I can tell what a huge part these play in the overall dynamics of the way the car handles the road. Steering response is better, as well as take-off from a dead stop. With my mounts, dampeners, and stiffy mount this car just leaps forward with minimal wheel spin(need tires), and no wheel hop period. Its crazy. Doing this mod is a no-brainer. If you have even lightly moded your Cl these bushings are a must have.
I rarely come on here and post but I am just so happy with this mod, for 50$ (i got all new oem washers, nuts, and sleeves) you cant go wrong.
I only have 65k on the car but with the mods I have it was time to change them anyway.
The radius rod bushings are the weak link for sure. Overall the car feels better in just about every aspect. Most obvious was the improvement in braking. Without the front wheels moving around as much the brakes seem to grab with more authority. It might just be me but the suspension feels a tad bit softer. The suspension seems to soak up the bumps more rapidly now that the wheels are under more control.
Looking at the suspension geometry more closely from underneath during the install I can tell what a huge part these play in the overall dynamics of the way the car handles the road. Steering response is better, as well as take-off from a dead stop. With my mounts, dampeners, and stiffy mount this car just leaps forward with minimal wheel spin(need tires), and no wheel hop period. Its crazy. Doing this mod is a no-brainer. If you have even lightly moded your Cl these bushings are a must have.
I rarely come on here and post but I am just so happy with this mod, for 50$ (i got all new oem washers, nuts, and sleeves) you cant go wrong.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (01-30-2012)
The following users liked this post:
zeta (01-30-2012)
#112
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Installed a set of energy suspension radius rod bushing earlier this week. What a difference they made. So happy I finally got them installed as I had them in a box for a month... I took pics of the install and old parts but they mysteriously vanished from my phone. I can tell you that my old bushings were totally deformed. The passenger side was almost flat as a pancake, and was starting to come apart. The inside of all the bushings were grooved out pretty deep as well. Also the outsides had changed shape too.
I only have 65k on the car but with the mods I have it was time to change them anyway.
The radius rod bushings are the weak link for sure. Overall the car feels better in just about every aspect. Most obvious was the improvement in braking. Without the front wheels moving around as much the brakes seem to grab with more authority. It might just be me but the suspension feels a tad bit softer. The suspension seems to soak up the bumps more rapidly now that the wheels are under more control.
Looking at the suspension geometry more closely from underneath during the install I can tell what a huge part these play in the overall dynamics of the way the car handles the road. Steering response is better, as well as take-off from a dead stop. With my mounts, dampeners, and stiffy mount this car just leaps forward with minimal wheel spin(need tires), and no wheel hop period. Its crazy. Doing this mod is a no-brainer. If you have even lightly moded your Cl these bushings are a must have.
I rarely come on here and post but I am just so happy with this mod, for 50$ (i got all new oem washers, nuts, and sleeves) you cant go wrong.
I only have 65k on the car but with the mods I have it was time to change them anyway.
The radius rod bushings are the weak link for sure. Overall the car feels better in just about every aspect. Most obvious was the improvement in braking. Without the front wheels moving around as much the brakes seem to grab with more authority. It might just be me but the suspension feels a tad bit softer. The suspension seems to soak up the bumps more rapidly now that the wheels are under more control.
Looking at the suspension geometry more closely from underneath during the install I can tell what a huge part these play in the overall dynamics of the way the car handles the road. Steering response is better, as well as take-off from a dead stop. With my mounts, dampeners, and stiffy mount this car just leaps forward with minimal wheel spin(need tires), and no wheel hop period. Its crazy. Doing this mod is a no-brainer. If you have even lightly moded your Cl these bushings are a must have.
I rarely come on here and post but I am just so happy with this mod, for 50$ (i got all new oem washers, nuts, and sleeves) you cant go wrong.
#113
I think I might pick up a set since everyone is saying it makes a noticeable difference. I'll let you guys know how it feels after I install a set.
#114
Just want to make sure these are the right ones?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPSHOCAMS_____
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPSHOCAMS_____
#115
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
K9733 is the correct Moog part# for the CL-S.
You can save some money at ES, where a pair is $22.87 shipped. You will have to reuse all your OEM collars and RR washers. The manual states to replace the RR self lock nuts. You could always put some blue/red loctite on if that is easier.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
K9733 is the correct Moog part# for the CL-S.
You can save some money at ES, where a pair is $22.87 shipped. You will have to reuse all your OEM collars and RR washers. The manual states to replace the RR self lock nuts. You could always put some blue/red loctite on if that is easier.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
#117
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
Click on the link in post #114.
Click on the link in post #114.
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azeezp13 (02-06-2012)
#118
^
K9733 is the correct Moog part# for the CL-S.
You can save some money at ES, where a pair is $22.87 shipped. You will have to reuse all your OEM collars and RR washers. The manual states to replace the RR self lock nuts. You could always put some blue/red loctite on if that is easier.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
K9733 is the correct Moog part# for the CL-S.
You can save some money at ES, where a pair is $22.87 shipped. You will have to reuse all your OEM collars and RR washers. The manual states to replace the RR self lock nuts. You could always put some blue/red loctite on if that is easier.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
#119
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Personal preference.
The ES RR bushings above are for the Accord; however, they are compatiable with our CL chassis as well.
I had tried Moog LCA bushings about 24 months ago and had to replace them with OEM because they split.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-tires-wheels-suspension-54/simple-ball-joint-separation-740248/
Had I known that ES had some that were compatable with our LCA's, I would have tried them. This is discussed on the link below.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=830344
I believe either are equally suited for stiffening the front end suspension up. If you have 100K+ on the OEMs, then this is a nice inexpensive upgrade.
Last edited by zeta; 02-06-2012 at 08:48 PM.
#120
Thank brian6speed/civicdrivr, they had some on hand initially which sparked the curiosity.
Personal preference.
The ES RR bushings above are for the Accord; however, they are compatiable with our CL chassis as well.
I had tried Moog LCA bushings about 24 months ago and had to replace them with OEM because they split.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=740248
Had I known that ES had some that were compatable with our LCA's, I would have tried them. This is discussed on the link below.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=830344
I believe either are equally suited for stiffening the front end suspension up. If you have 100K+ on the OEMs, then this is a nice inexpensive upgrade.
Personal preference.
The ES RR bushings above are for the Accord; however, they are compatiable with our CL chassis as well.
I had tried Moog LCA bushings about 24 months ago and had to replace them with OEM because they split.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=740248
Had I known that ES had some that were compatable with our LCA's, I would have tried them. This is discussed on the link below.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=830344
I believe either are equally suited for stiffening the front end suspension up. If you have 100K+ on the OEMs, then this is a nice inexpensive upgrade.