im thinking of buying the vortec aftercooler for my cl and have someone make a custom pipe to make it fit the comptech supercharger.i think there is room to do it if the battery is relocated to the trunk.i mean the s2000 has it and its not a big unit.what do you guys think is it possible.if you look at the vortec aftercooler its really not that big and it would give big benefits as dropping the intake charge of air.ok scalbert,allmotor what do ya think take a look at it for the s2000 and let me know.

 

I am in the process of ordering my supercharger and wondering if it is possible to do a custom intercooler ,, let me know if you here anything about it .................................

 

Ok,

Finally got in touch with Comptech about this.....It seems that it could be possible by turning the S/C about 180 degrees on the jackshaft--basically so that the outlet faces the front of the car--and then make custom piping to an intercooler/aftercooler.

Comptech has thought about doing one for the 6Speeders, but it is still in the "thinking" phase, so it could be a while if they decide to do one and market it.

Thanks
Dean

 

Why go with a Vortech Intercooler?

 

well id like to get an aftercooler and vortec has a small one that works well.id buy one from comptech but havent heard anything yet.its just the fabrication involved to make it work well so its expensive considering the aftercooler is 1400 bucks alone and id have to have custom tubes made to fit and relocate the batt to the trunk

 

Im all about More Power ( insert manly grunt here ) but w/ FWD - Do you think there is a point where you have to stop and say " OK, this is a wee bit overboard?"

 

ill wait and see who makes an aftercooler within the next sixth months.i always want more horespower as the goal is one day have a 400whp car 6speed so i figure by 1year from now it might be possible as long as more mods come out for our cars.

 

I would hold out until you can control the timing and fuel better as with the potential Comptech piggy back computer or similar. Or even a stand alone DFI.

Lower the charge temp would allow you to run about 5 - 6 PSI boost with basic FPR tuning but you would be limited still.

 

My SC kit arrived today! If there is room under the blower itself, a custom made air to water intercooler could be sandwiched between the bottom of the black blower itself and the cast funnel that attaches to the intake manifold elbow. Add a pump and a heat exchanger and your good to go. Another way woud be to fabricate an adapter to turn the cast elbow, that attaches to the intake manifold, to face the back of the car, then install an air to water intercooler like the Vortec, or this one http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/pwr6dix10le3.html, in the back/right side of the engine bay.

scalbert, how's the cold start injejector mod working? What does the DFI in "stand alone DFI" stand for? Are you thinking if we lower the charge temp, we could go to 5-6psi w/o the piggy back? I'm going to do the install in stages like you did. If I remember correctly, you were able to install the fuel pump, fuel preasure regulator, and the ESM unit at seperate times while continuing to drive the car between each stage, is that right?

 

Unfortunately the extra injector isn't 100% but close. It seems to be working great then all of a sudden for a single pull the knock is present (albeit very minimal). Then five minutes later in a similar situation there is no knock at all. It is very strange. But a little knock is still too much so it looks like the original pulley will be going back on.

At this point I would be hard pressed to say that at 5 - 6 PSI of intercooled boost would yield no deto; I think there would be some. This is too unstable to be 100% knock free at those boost levels from what I have seen. I wish I could pin-point the variable to control.

As for the install, yes I did it in stages all with the car driven during the day; three nights to be precise.

The first night I did everything fuel related. The next night I did electrical, but the new alternator bracket and pulley went on during this step (it is an alternator so it can fall into electrical ). The last night was the rest of the install.

 

I know you have a lean spot, but I wonder, if temporarily, you retard the base timing to see if that would help enough to stop the knock.

 

we need an ecu upgrade before any mods steve is right the car leans out to much at vtec and without an ecu piggyback to control timing and fuel were dead in the water.the best thing you can do now in the meantime is buy an aem stand alone computer and have it dyno tuned.i called aem and it works for our car they just tell you to buy a different connector to hook it up.yes its expensive figure 900.00 for the computer and another 500.00 for dyno tune but im sure you would get great results.im going to wait for comptech to develop hopefully a ecu upgrade.

 

The question is how to pull back timing. I have tried numerous tricks to fool the ECU into pulling back timing with limited success. But we have no way to directly control the advance used since here are six individual ignition control signals...

 

that is correct steve coil on plug pack so we cant adjust timing.were stuck between a rock and a hard place.i thought about if we had an ecu upgrade along with an aftercooler we could run 7 pounds boost no problem .also je piston can make us forged pistons so we could even go 9 pounds boost with stock bottom end but im not ready to go that far yet.i will get to 400whp one day maybe a year from now or sooner hopefully.i figure the magnusson mp62 screw type blower we have is still very efficient at 10 pounds of boost but we would have to lower our compression ratio to 9to1 to handle it.wow could you imagine a cl running 10 pounds of boost!!!!!!

 

This will work to pull timing, http://www.jandssafeguard.com/.



If the AEM EMS works on our cars, we should be able to go to 6 psi now. The AEM EMS, and cooling the charge, should take us to 10 psi.


If the charge is cooled and you tune on the edge of rich 11-12:1, the stock pistons should be ok. There are alot of B-series motors running 10 psi with stock internals, (high comp ratio), without intercoolers, tuned "safe", w/o problems. The safest way would be to have both the J&S Safeguard and a stand alone,...$$$$$$$

For now, I'm sticking with the standard Comptech setup, but if their piggy back is more than$300-$400, I'd rather buck up and go to a stand alone.

 

Why is everyone waiting for Comptech's Piggyback, just go another route...

 

I agree, but I'm in no hurry yet. It's probably going to take me a month to get what I allready have put together.