Advice on spring installation....

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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 12:03 PM
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Advice on spring installation....

Guys, I am hoping that my back has stopped hurting me by this Friday, if so I am going to replace my stock springs with the comptech ones on my 2k2 CL-S! Anyways, what I need to know, after studying the FAQ at TL.COM on how to do it, does our backseat come out the same way? If not, can you tell me the steps on how to remove the back seat to get to the bolts?

Also, what tool did you guys use to remove the joint where the steering knuckle I believe is?

Thanks guys! Can;t wait to install em!

I hope the ride is like stock!
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 12:49 PM
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Re: Advice on spring installation....

Originally posted by SilverBullet
Guys, I am hoping that my back has stopped hurting me by this Friday, if so I am going to replace my stock springs with the comptech ones on my 2k2 CL-S! Anyways, what I need to know, after studying the FAQ at TL.COM on how to do it, does our backseat come out the same way? If not, can you tell me the steps on how to remove the back seat to get to the bolts?

Also, what tool did you guys use to remove the joint?

Thanks guys! Can;t wait to install em!

I hope the ride is like stock!
The back seat comes out the same way...
1) Get in back and push against the front of the bottom cushion and lift, to undo the clips..for both sides.
2) Undo 4 bolts that hold the back cushion in place. Use of an extension for the middle two bolts will make it easier to remove.
3) Remove the back cushion top first (leaning it towards the front). Note: Two ppl make this process exponentially easier.

The Joint? I just smoked it...
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 01:54 PM
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SilverBullet...

I did my install last month. A few suggestions:

1) read this it'll give you the instructions you'll need for removing the seats and springs

2) invest in a knuckle joint remover. In the directions from A-Tl.com it says to "bang" on the knuckle to knock it out. Really bad for the joint. The knuckle joint remover can be purchased at any car shop. It looks like a metal "U" about 5 inches wide. There is a screw at the bottom of the "U" that helps separates the knuckle from the A-arm. No banging, no hammering, just tighten the screw enough to pop out the knuckle.

3) get floor stands. you need a very stable working environment. Any rocking might knock your car on top of you...no fun. If you want to be extra safe get an extra set to be placed else where, just in case.

4) get a good hydraulic lift. Our "manual" hand jack does not go high enough for the floor stand to go underneath your car.

5) make sure you use the correct jack points.

6) give yourself an entire day...
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 02:18 PM
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2) invest in a knuckle joint remover. In the directions from A-Tl.com it says to "bang" on the knuckle to knock it out. Really bad for the joint. The knuckle joint remover can be purchased at any car shop. It looks like a metal "U" about 5 inches wide. There is a screw at the bottom of the "U" that helps separates the knuckle from the A-arm. No banging, no hammering, just tighten the screw enough to pop out the knuckle.
Yeap, also called a 2 jaw puller.
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 03:10 PM
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Originally posted by EricS
Yeap, also called a 2 jaw puller.
Bang it out.....do you really need it?? How many times are you gonna swap out your suspension!?!
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 03:28 PM
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I will go to autozone to see if they have one then. I have jack stands, and also a hydrolic jack that I can lift the car up on. Not a problem there. Just that knuckle joint is the only thing I was worried about. I have done this on Nissans, but they didn;t have that joint. Thanks for the link and advice!! I plan to start on it Friday evening and I have Saturday to finish it if needed.

Originally posted by chikai
SilverBullet...

I did my install last month. A few suggestions:

1) read this it'll give you the instructions you'll need for removing the seats and springs

2) invest in a knuckle joint remover. In the directions from A-Tl.com it says to "bang" on the knuckle to knock it out. Really bad for the joint. The knuckle joint remover can be purchased at any car shop. It looks like a metal "U" about 5 inches wide. There is a screw at the bottom of the "U" that helps separates the knuckle from the A-arm. No banging, no hammering, just tighten the screw enough to pop out the knuckle.

3) get floor stands. you need a very stable working environment. Any rocking might knock your car on top of you...no fun. If you want to be extra safe get an extra set to be placed else where, just in case.

4) get a good hydraulic lift. Our "manual" hand jack does not go high enough for the floor stand to go underneath your car.

5) make sure you use the correct jack points.

6) give yourself an entire day...
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:01 PM
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Originally posted by moomaster_99
Bang it out.....do you really need it?? How many times are you gonna swap out your suspension!?!
Ummm, it's your dang upper ball joint. Real easy to screw up, and it WILL affect your ride quality when it goes bad. Also, why would you want to risk missing with the hammer and hitting inside your wheel well? Do it right and spend the 10 bucks or so on the proper tool for this job.

[edit]Just a pic for Silverbullet, to illustrate how they look/work. Here's a 3 jaw puller when I was removing my lower ball joints from my MR2:

[/edit]
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:05 PM
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Originally posted by EricS
Ummm, it's your dang upper ball joint. Real easy to screw up, and it WILL affect your ride quality when it goes bad. Also, why would you want to risk missing with the hammer and hitting inside your wheel well? Do it right and spend the 10 bucks or so on the proper tool for this job.
Cuz you dont need it....but i mean if you want to go and get one...by all means use it.
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:12 PM
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well you run a greater risk of messing it up, and the part is more than the tool.

You don't NEED an alignment after you lower your car. You don't NEED to change your oil & air/oil filters. You don't NEED an AEM bypass valve. You don't NEED to put gas in the car...well I guess that you do
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:13 PM
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do you have a strut compressor?
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:14 PM
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Originally posted by EricS
well you run a greater risk of messing it up, and the part is more than the tool.

You don't NEED an alignment after you lower your car. You don't NEED to change your oil & air/oil filters. You don't NEED an AEM bypass valve. You don't NEED to put gas in the car...well I guess that you do
Oh....you mean that part....I leave it on........sorry about the confusion....BTW, you guys sure do tear apart a suspension just to get at one part...
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:19 PM
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Originally posted by mattg
do you have a strut compressor?
U mean spring compressor yes I do.
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:26 PM
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Originally posted by moomaster_99
Oh....you mean that part....I leave it on........sorry about the confusion....BTW, you guys sure do tear apart a suspension just to get at one part...
Ah ok Entire 17yr old suspension & brake system totally rebuilt Bring on the autocross!

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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 04:54 PM
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do you really need to pop out the ball joint at all???
Because I have done the install by myself like at least 6 times because of lets see...H&R OE (too high), GC coilover, Tokico Struts, and finally H&R Sports...btw I have never popped the ball joint out and was able to fish the strut assembly out without any incident, you just gotta use a jack to move the suspension up or down when you fish it out though, but doesnt take more than 5 minutes to fish it out....
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 07:12 PM
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damn, I got the wrong one. I got one that looks like a fork...ugggggg! Back I go tomorrow.

Originally posted by EricS
Ummm, it's your dang upper ball joint. Real easy to screw up, and it WILL affect your ride quality when it goes bad. Also, why would you want to risk missing with the hammer and hitting inside your wheel well? Do it right and spend the 10 bucks or so on the proper tool for this job.

[edit]Just a pic for Silverbullet, to illustrate how they look/work. Here's a 3 jaw puller when I was removing my lower ball joints from my MR2:

[/edit]
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 07:14 PM
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Originally posted by SinnedTL
do you really need to pop out the ball joint at all???
Because I have done the install by myself like at least 6 times because of lets see...H&R OE (too high), GC coilover, Tokico Struts, and finally H&R Sports...btw I have never popped the ball joint out and was able to fish the strut assembly out without any incident, you just gotta use a jack to move the suspension up or down when you fish it out though, but doesnt take more than 5 minutes to fish it out....
OH? Please more detail on this. I rather not remove it if possible.
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 08:29 PM
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just use the directions in acura TL.com but just dismiss the ball joint part and when your fishing your strut assembly out, it might seem slightly stuck, so when this happens just keep turning the assembly like a screw (since the design of the springs) and place a jack on the bottom of the brake rotor and move the suspension up or down to fish it out...easy as cake...you will see when you are doing it...self-explanatory
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 09:49 PM
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Originally posted by SinnedTL
just use the directions in acura TL.com but just dismiss the ball joint part and when your fishing your strut assembly out, it might seem slightly stuck, so when this happens just keep turning the assembly like a screw (since the design of the springs) and place a jack on the bottom of the brake rotor and move the suspension up or down to fish it out...easy as cake...you will see when you are doing it...self-explanatory
Thanks Sin, I will give it a shot Friday!! :P
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Old Jun 26, 2002 | 11:06 PM
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Lookee there, even the Helms manual doesn't say anything about popping that ball joint out when removing the strut assemblies. Sorry bout not telling ya that earlier, I assumed the TL guys had actually went by the manual

Everyone needs one of these books Good luck with the springs!
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Old Jun 27, 2002 | 08:02 AM
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Originally posted by EricS
Lookee there, even the Helms manual doesn't say anything about popping that ball joint out when removing the strut assemblies. Sorry bout not telling ya that earlier, I assumed the TL guys had actually went by the manual

Everyone needs one of these books Good luck with the springs!
Thanks! Heheh maybe you should drive down to help me out Fri evening! Your so close! :P

Hehe j/p, I am sure I will be fine.

Can you give me the TORQUE specs on the bolts on how tight to get them for the strut towers and lower bolts? I could use those out of that manual when I tighten them back up. Thanks man.
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Old Jun 27, 2002 | 08:14 AM
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Also make sure you line up the upper and lower mounting plates on the strut, spring assembly. If you don't do this when you go to install the assembly, the top bolts won't line up with the the bottom. The shop I had hired to do my install could't figure this out so I had to bring over the Helms manuel and show them. Use a straight edge to line these up while the spring compressor is still on. It will make life a lot easier.
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Old Jun 27, 2002 | 09:43 AM
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upper bolts that attach where the strut tower bars are 30 for the big ones and about 20 for the smaller ones that actually hold the strut bar....where the strut meets the fork is about 40, and where the fork meets the lower control arm is 50 lbs, the rear are basically the same...about 35-45 depending on bolt size in the back would be sufficient...
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Old Jun 27, 2002 | 06:20 PM
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Originally posted by SinnedTL
upper bolts that attach where the strut tower bars are 30 for the big ones and about 20 for the smaller ones that actually hold the strut bar....where the strut meets the fork is about 40, and where the fork meets the lower control arm is 50 lbs, the rear are basically the same...about 35-45 depending on bolt size in the back would be sufficient...
Thanks Sin!
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