ceagles1000

Got my ball joints and front struts done on my 2001 Acura CL S type. The day after they were fixed my warning light
/!\, ABS and VSA all came on. I researched on this forum everyone said it was the speed sensor. I had the mechanic look at the car he said the ABS code was coming up and it was probably the speed sensor. He said one of them was stuck on the spindle and he couldnt get it off when he was doing the ball joints, so he disconnected it then reconnected when he put it back together. Long story short, he supposedly fixed it yesterday. He didnt charge for labor but charged $120 for the part. Seems like I got ripped off because every where online I look the part is like $40 or so. Also all the came back on. I drive on the highway for like 15 miles straight and they all come on. When driving in the streets they dont come on. Advice please?

ceagles1000

I called two dealerships they both said $50 each. I called the mechanic to tell him the lights were on. He said to bring back in. This will be the 4th time he looked at it. I really think he is giving no effort because he isnt charging labor. Maybe Im wrong. I asked him why was the part so expensive. He said its a big piece. I said its just a speed sensor though it should be cheap. He said no its not the speed sensor its the abs sensor. I said whats the difference. He said they are two different parts and the speed sensor wasnt touched.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

he could have messed up one of the ABS sensors that senses the wheel movement since he was right in that area.

the one that he said was stuck, was probably the culprit

ceagles1000

I would think so too but it didnt fix it. Who knows what this guy did, I feel like I am getting ripped off. Maybe he didnt do anything. He also said he took them off and cleaned and greased them up. The dealership said greasing them up could of broke them too. And he said the speed sensor is what he changed and its $50 not $120

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The speed sensor is in the transmission and there is only one. You have four ABS sensors, one on each wheel.

ceagles1000

ok so the part on the wheel is the abs sensor. thats what he fixed. its $50 from the dealership. I seen places online sell for 20 or 30. he charged $120. he basically charged me for labor and just said thats what the part cost

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yea he's making u think u got a deal. he either replace it with a faulty one and it's still misreading. Or he could have used a new one and then used a cleaner that isn't abs sensor safe hence why it's malfunctioning.

OR he could have installed it incorrectly..

also.. I dunno if abs is like SRS system which needs to be reset in a certain way when a problem arises in order to wipe the slate clean.

if I were you i'd jack the car up, take the wheel off and look to see where the sensor is, it's condition, and to see if anything seems out of the norm.

this guy obviously doesn't know what he's doing, and has no interest in being honest with you.

if he does work for you again don't pay him. say ur going for a test drive then u'll pay... and just don't come back... fuck him

ceagles1000

thanks for your opinion. Also light doesnt come on when I first start it or even driving in the streets. It comes on after driving 10 mins on the highway - then it stays on. So I dont think reseting will do anything.

And yeah can you believe it. Acting like he is doing me a favor - no problem I wont charge you labor Ill take care of it. Then he charges 140 for a 40 dollar part.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

w/e man that's a SMALLL price to pay to know he's a caniving bitch as most mechanics are.

when I had my ford probe with a motor swap no one in the whole province knew wtf they were doing and I was getting gyped 100, 200, 400 everywhere I went.

hell it cost me 900 to have a place set my coilovers in the car perfect with proper toe, camber and caster. and all they did was take their time and made some custom bolts.... THAT'S getting ripped off.

lol but we live and we learn... and that's why forums like these are invaluable to people like us.

not only does this forum save me time, concerns, stress, sleep and money. But it allows you to really understand the differences between ur car and the rest of them. and MOST importantly it allows you to make informed decisions (something you simply cannot do without a massive resource such as Azine)

rush

iTrader: (1)

i totally agree . its not totaly bolted down i got jipped the same way till i sarted doing my own work the most expensive part is patience and tools NOW

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

yea man and that's exactly what brought me to the forums... getting screwed by ppl wanting a quick buck...

now i got more money, more knowledge and less problems.


whoever said more money, more problems... definitely wasn't a car enthusiast

ceagles1000

Today during my ride to work the light went off and stayed off. Not sure what to do. Do I change the other speed senor or not? Maybe Ill just wait. Once it stays on I can get a code. Not sure. It could be a loose wire or maybe a wire has a cut in it or something and its causing a short.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i still say he sprayed something on it that wasn't abs sensor safe and now u are getting intermittent codes...

but hey if it stays off the good for you... and good for ur wallet.

just make sure u find a different honest mechanic.. or just do it urself from now on unless ur pulling the motor or building the trans... which is what i do.

ceagles1000

I dont know what he did the first time - when he did the struts and ball joints. But the lights came on the next day after the job - always on the highway.

Anyway the first time I brought it back - he reset it and said it would be ok. It wasnt and I brought back. Then he said he took them out and cleaned/greased them up and put them back

dave586270

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like he just charged ya to put it in. Plus your paying his mark-up. Same thing you're gonna find at any shop. I've had the light pop on after work as well. Usually just something dirty or left unplugged. I've always just cleared the codes and driven the car to clear it. Depending on what codes trip they will turn themselves off if the problem isn't detected again when the car is started and the system runs through everything.