6 Piston Caliper Mated to a 13" Rotor
06-14-2003, 02:25 PM
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6 Piston Caliper Mated to a 13" Rotor
Just letting you guys know that we now have a version of our 6 Piston big brake kit available for the Cl and Tl.
Here are the specs:
6 Piston Wilwood Caliper
13" x 1.1" Directional Vaned Heavy Duty 2 piece rotor (Rotor is available Cross Drilled/Slotted or just Slotted. They are also CAD plated to resist corrosion. They are also Cryogenically Frozen)
Aluminum hats and brackets that are anodized.
Goodridge Stainless Lines (DOT)
Ceramic Pads
Aircraft quality hardware
Basically, everything you need to fully convert the front over is included.
Just a couple notes to add. CAD plating is far superior to its Zinc counterpart that can actually get into pads and cause all sorts of problems. Cryo freezing, for those that don't know, hardens the metal. This doubles life expectancy while also producing a flatter and smoother surface which in turn creates a better contact patch with the pad. Most importantly, this kit will drop a significant amount of unsprung weight off the front end. About 10 pounds off each wheel actually. 20 pounds off the front end will help handling, steering feel, and overall performance.
If there are any questions or concerns any of you may have, let me know.
Sherwin
Here are the specs:
6 Piston Wilwood Caliper
13" x 1.1" Directional Vaned Heavy Duty 2 piece rotor (Rotor is available Cross Drilled/Slotted or just Slotted. They are also CAD plated to resist corrosion. They are also Cryogenically Frozen)
Aluminum hats and brackets that are anodized.
Goodridge Stainless Lines (DOT)
Ceramic Pads
Aircraft quality hardware
Basically, everything you need to fully convert the front over is included.
Just a couple notes to add. CAD plating is far superior to its Zinc counterpart that can actually get into pads and cause all sorts of problems. Cryo freezing, for those that don't know, hardens the metal. This doubles life expectancy while also producing a flatter and smoother surface which in turn creates a better contact patch with the pad. Most importantly, this kit will drop a significant amount of unsprung weight off the front end. About 10 pounds off each wheel actually. 20 pounds off the front end will help handling, steering feel, and overall performance.
If there are any questions or concerns any of you may have, let me know.
Sherwin
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6 pot rotors 
awesome. VERY cool. Dang more mods to do 
06-14-2003, 05:06 PM
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Originally posted by rondog
by the way, how much and do the calipers come in red?
by the way, how much and do the calipers come in red?
How about some purchasing/ordering information? What's available for the rear?
06-14-2003, 05:55 PM
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First of all guys, BE NICE. This is someone's(customer car 
) you are talking about. Everybody loves THIER car, and everybody has feelings 
Hers is an older pic of my car, since you all care
Now, to your questions. Entire front kits retails for $1700. That includes everything listed above. At this time, we are only carrying matching rear rotor s with stainless lines for the rear. We will be doing a larger set up in the future but it will mainly be for aesthetic reasons. By choosing the correct caliper in the front with the correct piston diameters, we have been able to keep the OEM pedal feel and improve braking power without throwing the bias off. We do this without the use of proportioning valves or residual valves.
Rondog, unfortunately, the calipers only come anodized black. Wilwood does not believe in making their products pretty, they believe in making them effecient. Black dissipates heat faster than any other color. You personally can paint them if you wish. Many of my customers have done so with good results.
Lou, why so sour?
) you are talking about. Everybody loves THIER car, and everybody has feelings Hers is an older pic of my car, since you all care
Now, to your questions. Entire front kits retails for $1700. That includes everything listed above. At this time, we are only carrying matching rear rotor s with stainless lines for the rear. We will be doing a larger set up in the future but it will mainly be for aesthetic reasons. By choosing the correct caliper in the front with the correct piston diameters, we have been able to keep the OEM pedal feel and improve braking power without throwing the bias off. We do this without the use of proportioning valves or residual valves.
Rondog, unfortunately, the calipers only come anodized black. Wilwood does not believe in making their products pretty, they believe in making them effecient. Black dissipates heat faster than any other color. You personally can paint them if you wish. Many of my customers have done so with good results.
Lou, why so sour?
06-14-2003, 06:03 PM
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Well I bought my Brembo and they are only 4 pistons and 12.4 which I love....I can only imagine how these might brake with larger rotors and more pistons I imagine greater brake torque...
.how much are the rear rotors crossdrilled????
I like the look very nice indeed and the rotors are vaned
this is definetly a worthy street setup with track possibilty...how much are your replacement rotors and pads when need replacing???
also do you provide the needed spoke clearance for a kit of this size...18" a must and pretty low offset 45 or greater Im assuming???
personally I love the Brembo crossdrilled better they look so awesome on the Porsche with them all around..Im waiting for a cosmetic rear rotor upgrade with Hawk pads
.how much are the rear rotors crossdrilled????
I like the look very nice indeed and the rotors are vaned
this is definetly a worthy street setup with track possibilty...how much are your replacement rotors and pads when need replacing???also do you provide the needed spoke clearance for a kit of this size...18" a must and pretty low offset 45 or greater Im assuming???
personally I love the Brembo crossdrilled better they look so awesome on the Porsche with them all around..Im waiting for a cosmetic rear rotor upgrade with Hawk pads
06-14-2003, 06:10 PM
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Originally posted by typeR
i like the 3K rotors on the 150$ wheels
i like the 3K rotors on the 150$ wheels
my thoughts exactly if you have $2K dollar brakes you gotta have wheels for about the same or more...thats is just plain
06-14-2003, 09:41 PM
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I can machine any rotor to look anyway. Thats the easy part Everything we do is designed on a CAD system to ensure a properly balanced design. Yes it actually does matter. We also offer CAD plating in gold to match your brembo rotors, but thats a totally different story.
Honestly, 4 piston or 6 piston does not mean better brakes. The size of the pistons in relation to the bore and stroke of the master cylinder is what is important. Most of the Brembo kits that i tested used calipers off high performance cars from Europe that did not work well with Japanese cars without a proportioning valve and some serious adjusting. Point being, bigger is not always better.
What is the offset of the factory wheel? Its a 17" right? My 13" will fit a 17" wheel, does not have to be 18". Offset also does not always explain very much, spoke design is also essential. To be honest with you, I have no idea what his offsets were either. I do know that the factory set up is not all that small, so most wheels should clear. Maybe a small spacer would be needed for a few applications, but i highly doubt more than a few mm's.
As for cost of replacements parts, well thats the kicker. These rotors will last you more than 3 times your OEM rotors for 2 reasons. First, by being larger, they will dissipate heat much better. Also by being 2 pieces, they will not crack or warp under load from thermal cycling. Second reason is that they are Cryo treated. This further hardens the metal to increase longevity. This also goes for the pads as well. But if you do by some bizarre chance need them, they are in the ballpark of $150 a piece with all the goodies (drilled/slottes, CAD plated, and Cryo treated) About $100 for just the blanks. They are also readily available from a few different vendors as well, so you will not be left in the dark. Pads are in the ballpark of $90 a set. They are also available in an abundant amount of flavors for you to choose from. From street to full race pad.
If anyone is in So Cali and has stock wheels, I could arrange a test fit and know for sure what will and wont work for you guys.
Sherwin
Everything we do is designed on a CAD system to ensure a properly balanced design. Yes it actually does matter. We also offer CAD plating in gold to match your brembo rotors, but thats a totally different story.Honestly, 4 piston or 6 piston does not mean better brakes. The size of the pistons in relation to the bore and stroke of the master cylinder is what is important. Most of the Brembo kits that i tested used calipers off high performance cars from Europe that did not work well with Japanese cars without a proportioning valve and some serious adjusting. Point being, bigger is not always better.
What is the offset of the factory wheel? Its a 17" right? My 13" will fit a 17" wheel, does not have to be 18". Offset also does not always explain very much, spoke design is also essential. To be honest with you, I have no idea what his offsets were either. I do know that the factory set up is not all that small, so most wheels should clear. Maybe a small spacer would be needed for a few applications, but i highly doubt more than a few mm's.
As for cost of replacements parts, well thats the kicker. These rotors will last you more than 3 times your OEM rotors for 2 reasons. First, by being larger, they will dissipate heat much better. Also by being 2 pieces, they will not crack or warp under load from thermal cycling. Second reason is that they are Cryo treated. This further hardens the metal to increase longevity. This also goes for the pads as well. But if you do by some bizarre chance need them, they are in the ballpark of $150 a piece with all the goodies (drilled/slottes, CAD plated, and Cryo treated) About $100 for just the blanks. They are also readily available from a few different vendors as well, so you will not be left in the dark. Pads are in the ballpark of $90 a set. They are also available in an abundant amount of flavors for you to choose from. From street to full race pad.
If anyone is in So Cali and has stock wheels, I could arrange a test fit and know for sure what will and wont work for you guys.
Sherwin
06-15-2003, 02:54 AM
#23
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those brakes look awesome.
i wont comment on the cl.
i wont comment on the cl.
06-15-2003, 03:08 AM
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Okay I have heard of CAD (Computer Aided Design). WTF is CAD plating?
I won't say anything more about that CL other than I saw a yacht with that EXACT same color scheme the other day.
So this will work with my 17" Centerline RPMs with a 42 offset?
I won't say anything more about that CL other than I saw a yacht with that EXACT same color scheme the other day.
So this will work with my 17" Centerline RPMs with a 42 offset?
06-15-2003, 03:28 AM
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Originally posted by CLSter
Okay I have heard of CAD (Computer Aided Design). WTF is CAD plating?
I won't say anything more about that CL other than I saw a yacht with that EXACT same color scheme the other day.
So this will work with my 17" Centerline RPMs with a 42 offset?
Okay I have heard of CAD (Computer Aided Design). WTF is CAD plating?
I won't say anything more about that CL other than I saw a yacht with that EXACT same color scheme the other day.
So this will work with my 17" Centerline RPMs with a 42 offset?
cadmium plating. it's a "rust proof" electroplating process.
post pics of your car.
06-15-2003, 08:05 AM
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I have the CAD plating on my KVRs. The Plating will only stay on--of course--for those areas NOT touching the brake pads. IT does look nice.
Originally posted by mattg
cadmium plating. it's a "rust proof" electroplating process.
post pics of your car.
cadmium plating. it's a "rust proof" electroplating process.
post pics of your car.
06-15-2003, 01:07 PM
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Originally posted by CL SLeePeR
Where's your shop at? HOw bout 13" rotors for the 1st gen cl?
Where's your shop at? HOw bout 13" rotors for the 1st gen cl?
06-15-2003, 01:20 PM
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Originally posted by CLSter
Okay I have heard of CAD (Computer Aided Design). WTF is CAD plating?
I won't say anything more about that CL other than I saw a yacht with that EXACT same color scheme the other day.
So this will work with my 17" Centerline RPMs with a 42 offset?
Okay I have heard of CAD (Computer Aided Design). WTF is CAD plating?
I won't say anything more about that CL other than I saw a yacht with that EXACT same color scheme the other day.
So this will work with my 17" Centerline RPMs with a 42 offset?
Centerline RPMs if I remember correctly are a very nicely designed wheel. First, they offer a lot of caliper clearance because of the spoke design. Secondly, they are forged. Nice choice
I cant confirm fitment just yet though, even though im pretty sure it will clear. Hopefully one of the local guys will pop by soon and we ll get all that sorted out.By chance, does anyone know the offset of those Katana wheels that are on our prototype car? I know they were 19s, buts thats all i know.
As for the rest of you, thank you for the comments. I really, really appreciate it. My car and my products get 100% of my energy and I do not cut any corners in anything that I do. I ll get you guys some more recent pics of the S once she is out of the body shop.
06-15-2003, 06:02 PM
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Docofmind Im a bit confused if the rotors come in all different configurations does that mean they come blank and get done by a shop...reason is cause my rotors Brembo said that the holes were strategically drilled by them for better heat dissipation...although most cars with stock Brembo brakes come with blank rotors 
...Im not questioning the integrity of the rotor I just want to know if these get cut by a machine at your shop or come like this from Willwood or are you a rep for Willwood
by the way its about time something is being done for the braking on the Cl-s
...Im not questioning the integrity of the rotor I just want to know if these get cut by a machine at your shop or come like this from Willwood or are you a rep for Willwood by the way its about time something is being done for the braking on the Cl-s
06-16-2003, 02:13 AM
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Originally posted by lou
Docofmind Im a bit confused if the rotors come in all different configurations does that mean they come blank and get done by a shop...reason is cause my rotors Brembo said that the holes were strategically drilled by them for better heat dissipation...although most cars with stock Brembo brakes come with blank rotors...Im not questioning the integrity of the rotor I just want to know if these get cut by a machine at your shop or come like this from Willwood or are you a rep for Willwood
by the way its about time something is being done for the braking on the Cl-s
Docofmind Im a bit confused if the rotors come in all different configurations does that mean they come blank and get done by a shop...reason is cause my rotors Brembo said that the holes were strategically drilled by them for better heat dissipation...although most cars with stock Brembo brakes come with blank rotors
...Im not questioning the integrity of the rotor I just want to know if these get cut by a machine at your shop or come like this from Willwood or are you a rep for Willwood by the way its about time something is being done for the braking on the Cl-s
Our rotors do indeed come as blanks where we then machine the slots and holes into them. If you read what i wrote about putting the rotors into a CAD system (NOT THE PLATING) to figure out exactly where to put the holes or the slots. This is not done for heat dissipation but rather to keep the rotor from becoming unbalanced.
Your bring up a good point though that I would like to clear up. Rotors that have the holes CAST in them vs. rotors that have the holes machined in them. Many people believe that the machined rotors with holes in them will lead to cracking where rotors that have the holes cast in them will not. THIS IS COMPLETELY UNTRUE. If you machine a rotor correctly and chamffer the holes, it is just as rigid as a cast counterpiece. Cross drills are not the reason rotors crack. OEM rotors crack because they are 1 piece. 1 piece rotors do not allow the rotor and hat to "breethe". What I mean by this is that during thermal cycling (the continuous heating and cooling of the rotor) the friction part of the of the disc and the hat part will get to two different operation temps. Has one expands and contracts more than the other, little spider web cracks begin to appear. The 2 piece design minimizes this. I have taken plenty of drilled rotors to the track and burned completely through them without any of them cracking. While on the other hand, I have seen many factory rotors crack from the exact process I mentioned above.
Also, I do not work for Wilwood. I only source calipers from them. Everything else is pretty much my own design
06-16-2003, 01:14 PM
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Do you cryo-treat the rotors after cross-drilling them? And do you have a mechanism to keep the rotor cool during the drilling process? And do the holes and slots work in conjuction to the vanes to aid in cooling? Thanks for your dedication to the CL, though I don't have one.
06-16-2003, 03:34 PM
#38
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Doc,
That is great!! I've heard great things about Wildwood brake products in the past, so that is great!
If you can work out some kind of group buy rate (similar to rotara price) I might be interested. Since I already feel kinda jipped from the previous EMC rotor group buys (people have problems with them warping). Let us know!
Thanks.
That is great!! I've heard great things about Wildwood brake products in the past, so that is great!
If you can work out some kind of group buy rate (similar to rotara price) I might be interested. Since I already feel kinda jipped from the previous EMC rotor group buys (people have problems with them warping). Let us know!
Thanks.
06-16-2003, 05:17 PM
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Originally posted by showgunz
Do you cryo-treat the rotors after cross-drilling them? And do you have a mechanism to keep the rotor cool during the drilling process? And do the holes and slots work in conjuction to the vanes to aid in cooling? Thanks for your dedication to the CL, though I don't have one.
Do you cryo-treat the rotors after cross-drilling them? And do you have a mechanism to keep the rotor cool during the drilling process? And do the holes and slots work in conjuction to the vanes to aid in cooling? Thanks for your dedication to the CL, though I don't have one.
Again, the slots and holes really dont matter. They can go either direction. The vanes however to make a difference. Thats why there is a left and a right. It uses centrifugal force to cool the rotor more efficiently.