3.5L conversion! need infos!
3.5L conversion! need infos!
hey sup guys
ive been wanting to do teh famous 3.5L conversion for a while and it's time to do it now (gathering infos and parts)!
i picked up a J35A1 block from an odyssey tonite.
what i need to know is:
1. what is the difference between Odyssey and TL-S pistons.
2. is it possible to bore the cylinders and get different pistons? what would be the improvements/benefits? also what would it be good to get a mdx manifold? improvements?
3. with the 3.5L block, type-s heads/pistons/cams/throttle body and intake/headers/pulley/cat-back, what kind of numbers should i expect (hp/torque) ??
thanks a lot for your time!
@cUr@-TL
ive been wanting to do teh famous 3.5L conversion for a while and it's time to do it now (gathering infos and parts)!
i picked up a J35A1 block from an odyssey tonite.
what i need to know is:
1. what is the difference between Odyssey and TL-S pistons.
2. is it possible to bore the cylinders and get different pistons? what would be the improvements/benefits? also what would it be good to get a mdx manifold? improvements?
3. with the 3.5L block, type-s heads/pistons/cams/throttle body and intake/headers/pulley/cat-back, what kind of numbers should i expect (hp/torque) ??
thanks a lot for your time!
@cUr@-TL
Let's see.....
The stock Odyssey block with Type S heads will cause valve clearance problems (we had a customer already do this and bent his valves). There is a 7 Thousands difference on the wrist pin for the pistons between the two. I am unsure on if the difference is in the pistons or in the rod itself.
We do have a set of 10.2:1 forged JE pistons sitting here on the shelf for an MDX block, though.
Anything is possible if you have the time and money to make it happen.
We have tried to have rods made for the MDX blocks since Honda/Acura made a mid year change in the rods to a powdered metal format that is impossible to shot-peened and have been unsuccessful at doing so.
As far as power, you will probably be around (guessing since all cars are a little different) the 210-220WHP and 240-250WTQ with the set up you are talking about.
Dean
The stock Odyssey block with Type S heads will cause valve clearance problems (we had a customer already do this and bent his valves). There is a 7 Thousands difference on the wrist pin for the pistons between the two. I am unsure on if the difference is in the pistons or in the rod itself.
We do have a set of 10.2:1 forged JE pistons sitting here on the shelf for an MDX block, though.

Anything is possible if you have the time and money to make it happen.
We have tried to have rods made for the MDX blocks since Honda/Acura made a mid year change in the rods to a powdered metal format that is impossible to shot-peened and have been unsuccessful at doing so.
As far as power, you will probably be around (guessing since all cars are a little different) the 210-220WHP and 240-250WTQ with the set up you are talking about.
Dean
typeR's 3.5 motor is an Odyssey block; must be the pistons. I know his are custom.
You said you have 10.2:1 pistons for the MDX block. Even with this lowered compression you still think you'd achieve 240-250 in torque?
You said you have 10.2:1 pistons for the MDX block. Even with this lowered compression you still think you'd achieve 240-250 in torque?
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If I were to rebuild for a forced induction application I would be too concerned about displacement. I would be more concerned about handling boost well. You can easily make up for 0.3L with just 1 PSI boost more.
Build the engine to handle 25 PSI and then you have a real beast.
And then the subsequent drivetrain parts left on the road.
Build the engine to handle 25 PSI and then you have a real beast.

And then the subsequent drivetrain parts left on the road.
Originally Posted by DeansblackCLS
Let's see.....
The stock Odyssey block with Type S heads will cause valve clearance problems (we had a customer already do this and bent his valves). There is a 7 Thousands difference on the wrist pin for the pistons between the two. I am unsure on if the difference is in the pistons or in the rod itself.
We do have a set of 10.2:1 forged JE pistons sitting here on the shelf for an MDX block, though.
Anything is possible if you have the time and money to make it happen.
We have tried to have rods made for the MDX blocks since Honda/Acura made a mid year change in the rods to a powdered metal format that is impossible to shot-peened and have been unsuccessful at doing so.
As far as power, you will probably be around (guessing since all cars are a little different) the 210-220WHP and 240-250WTQ with the set up you are talking about.
Dean
The stock Odyssey block with Type S heads will cause valve clearance problems (we had a customer already do this and bent his valves). There is a 7 Thousands difference on the wrist pin for the pistons between the two. I am unsure on if the difference is in the pistons or in the rod itself.
We do have a set of 10.2:1 forged JE pistons sitting here on the shelf for an MDX block, though.

Anything is possible if you have the time and money to make it happen.
We have tried to have rods made for the MDX blocks since Honda/Acura made a mid year change in the rods to a powdered metal format that is impossible to shot-peened and have been unsuccessful at doing so.
As far as power, you will probably be around (guessing since all cars are a little different) the 210-220WHP and 240-250WTQ with the set up you are talking about.
Dean
is there a difference between the odyssey (j35a1) block and the mdx block????
also you're saying that i'll have to get customs pistons? how much are they? what's the difference between regular TL-S pistons? (or rods)
thanks!
also you're saying that i'll have to get customs pistons? how much are they? what's the difference between regular TL-S pistons? (or rods)
thanks!
The 300cc extra might give a torque blip at like 3-4K RPMS, but that's about it. Horsepower is a functional of flow (intake manifold, heads etc.) and combustion-chamber efficiency. The shape of the curve will depend on rod/stroke and cam-profile.
If I were to build a 800-900hp CL-S, I'd stick with 3.2L. It's quite easy actually!! Time to buy a block!!!
If I were to build a 800-900hp CL-S, I'd stick with 3.2L. It's quite easy actually!! Time to buy a block!!!
ok..
all that stuff is confusing me (
)
here's what id like to know:
i have an odyssey block (j35a1), what kind of pistons do i have to get, will TL-S heads fit, would a port and polish job help, and will TL-S cams fit?
to make a long story short, tell me what i need to have the best all-motor setup with the block i have now.
thanks again!
all that stuff is confusing me (
)here's what id like to know:
i have an odyssey block (j35a1), what kind of pistons do i have to get, will TL-S heads fit, would a port and polish job help, and will TL-S cams fit?
to make a long story short, tell me what i need to have the best all-motor setup with the block i have now.
thanks again!
Originally Posted by scalbert
If I were to rebuild for a forced induction application I would be too concerned about displacement. I would be more concerned about handling boost well. You can easily make up for 0.3L with just 1 PSI boost more.
Build the engine to handle 25 PSI and then you have a real beast.
And then the subsequent drivetrain parts left on the road.
Build the engine to handle 25 PSI and then you have a real beast.

And then the subsequent drivetrain parts left on the road.

instead of going for bigger displacement then adding J32A2 heads and lower plenum. And his block should handle 25psi easy if he consider going custom turbo in the future
But for now 10psi with e-Manage and IC.
Originally Posted by @cUr@-TL
ok..
to make a long story short, tell me what i need to have the best all-motor setup with the block i have now.
thanks again!
to make a long story short, tell me what i need to have the best all-motor setup with the block i have now.
thanks again!
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Use the 3.5L block and crank... get custom rods (shorten the rod length)... increase the bore... and make sure everything is light-weght. Then get CL-S heads (ported & polished) and get ITB's and some cams... you'll make 340-350whp IMO
I guess if you truely wanted to be "all motor" ITBs and cams etc would be the only option... but damn that's a lotta cash to throw out for the same whp that could be achieved with an Intercooled S/C setup. Not to mention ITB and aggressive cams might kill the "daily-driver" factor of the CL-S.
ITB sound mean as hell though.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
^ Too bad his transmission, driveshaft assembly, etc. won't be able to handle 25psi easy

He ordered custom auto tranmission with LSD that will handle at least 500HP (crank)
then if he needs it more they (Dr. Evil) will do
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
The 300cc extra might give a torque blip at like 3-4K RPMS, but that's about it. Horsepower is a functional of flow (intake manifold, heads etc.) and combustion-chamber efficiency. The shape of the curve will depend on rod/stroke and cam-profile.
If I were to build a 800-900hp CL-S, I'd stick with 3.2L. It's quite easy actually!! Time to buy a block!!!
If I were to build a 800-900hp CL-S, I'd stick with 3.2L. It's quite easy actually!! Time to buy a block!!!
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Use the 3.5L block and crank... get custom rods (shorten the rod length)... increase the bore... and make sure everything is light-weght. Then get CL-S heads (ported & polished) and get ITB's and some cams... you'll make 340-350whp IMO
ITB! hell no! i want a daily driver

so with short rods, increased bore and ported/polished type-s heads and also with type-s cams i should have a good setup? what kind of pistons do i need? do i have to replace the intake manifold?
also do you think my tranny can handle the amount of hp/tq i'll have?
thanks
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