artbran

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys what parts do i need to change the clutch in my car?

Clutch disk
bearings
and some other random things here and there

can anyone give me a full list?

artbran

iTrader: (2)

I know i need the Clutch disc, the Pressure Plate, The Release Bearing, and Pilot Bearing.

What else is there??

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

The clutch KIT from Acura has what you need. But you also need a flywheel. You can not reuse, or resurface the 1 you have.

artbran

iTrader: (2)

I called Acura and they told me that they resurface them when they can but not always. When they cannot they replace them.

dalostpinoy

how many miles is on the clutch? is it already starting to slip? why not just go with an aftermarket flywheel/clutch kit?

JBlueCLS6

iTrader: (2)

And do you know of one that actually performs better then our OEMs that is readily available?

We don't really have anything but OEM (Comptech is no better) to swap CURRENTLY. I was looking at Spec but apparently thats just a repainted OEM Pressure Plate.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

On a CLS 6MT you can not, Same with a TL 6MT. Maybe other cars, but not this 1. It's dual mass.

artbran

iTrader: (2)

there are 76k i think... Anyway, as for the clutch, its not slipping yet but its at the end of its life. I have to let the pedal out about 3/4 way out before it it touches the flywheel. Not only that I had to get new axles and tires so i just want to get it all taken care of at once.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

You pretty much nailed the parts, Pressure Plate, throw out bearing, disk, pilot bearing. I do think there is a slight tolerance to resurface, but if it's beyond the specs in the manual, then the flywheel has to be replaced. If that's the case, then you could possibly be a guini(?) pig for this flywheel.

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/Mer...y_Code=clultraL

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com

Much cheaper than compechs and I like the nitrocarburizing process they do to the inserts.

I'm not sure your clutch is bad though. I know they all release towards the top of the pedal. If it's not making noise or slipping, I'd let it go till it craps out, can't really hurt anything.

Allout

Isn't that flywheel for an auto since it's 01-03?

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

I'd have to say it's for the manual, it's possible they assume it applies to the 01-02 model as well.. someone should enquire if these are available. about two years ago, i sent them a complete flywheel and pressure plate, disk. they may have taken the measurements and are fishing for a demand. who knows???

Allout

Agreed - Worth a call.

CL-S 6MT

Can only Acura replace our clutches? or did anyonehave a local mechanic do it?

jont

does anybody know a better hi performance then comp has to offer?

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

whats the stock weight of our flywheel?

dalostpinoy

29.5lbs stock and less then 10lbs for the Comptechs

Allout

Comptech lists a 18.1 lbs. reduction with their setup. Total stock assembly = 42.6 lbs. vs 24.5 lbs. for Comptech.

resedaruss

iTrader: (1)

Just a note for those who noticed differences in the CLS clutch when they got their car.

I just had my clutch replaced with another OEM one. Now I'm betting Acura must have redesigned the CLS clutch. As everyone knows, reviewers in magazines back in 2002, 2003 were complaining that the CLS clutch was quirky to engage. I noticed the same thing when I first bought mine although I got used to it in short order.

After my new clutch (the complete kit, new flywheel and all) was put in a few weeks ago, the clutch was no longer grabby at the floorboards. Now it works like the clutches I've had in other cars. It works very much like the clutch on my buddy's corvette--very smooth and gradual in its engagement.

When other people (like the guys at the car wash) drive my car now, they don't stall it any more when they first get into it.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Well it's possible the clutch the factory uses is not the same as the replacement Acura part.

CLS6SpeedNupe

I want to supercharge this spring but my stock clutch is very weak under pressure. Right now what are my options as far as aftermarket clutches?

Paclark01

There really isn't anything available on the market yet (to the best of my knowledge). There have been posts on the forums from Heeltoe, and another company was mentioned named Competition Clutch. I believe Competition Clutch is still in the R&D phase, but Marcus at Heeltoe has someone available to make complete clutch kits. The minimum order qty is 5 and the price is around 1350.00 for a clutch kit. Do a search for more info since I probably missed something.

jont

so is there a clutch that grabs better then comp tech?
i have noticed thhat comp cluth is to touchy from 1st through 3rd. after that it is smooth and powerful.

6peedSleepR

same here... in WOT as soon as I shift to 2nd all i get is Revv and no reaction..

JBlueCLS6

iTrader: (2)

Man I seriously hate that... I can get that to happen in 3rd too....

BTW did you install the pullies I sold you?

CLS6SpeedNupe

Its good to know im not the only one with this problem

NightRider

Although the flywheel is lighter on the comptech clutch, as mostly stated, it does not give performance benefit. It is not rated at any higher power load than the factory OEM. Had to replace the clutch in my 6MT Legend awhile back, when it really starts to go, you will definitely notice. A local mechanic can replace the clutch for you, not a whole lot different than many standard MT Jap cars. I would take it to someone who at least has experience with H/A though.

6peedSleepR

yEA I got them in.. I just really cant tell yet being so cold out I can never get any traction.. even with the New YokoHama AVS tires I mounted.. (summer tires)

artbran

iTrader: (2)

update on it. while all aftermarket (random websites out there) places wanted about $300 for the disc and pressure plate, acuraautomotiveparts.org has a kit (disc and pp) for $250

50 dollars is 50 dollars that i can spend somewhere else!

artbran

iTrader: (2)

Took the car to the mechanic and they changed the clutch. Got a call from them right away when they got the tranny off along with the clutch. He said that i was lucky that i got the car in when I did. One of the plates/packs on the flywheel side was cracked in half and when he put the disc down, the pack fell off.

Right before i got the car in, if i was shifting under 3000 rpm, the clutch would disengage normally but it was hard to get it out of first second and third and was also hard to get them into them 3 gears. If i was above 3k and put the clutch in, it would not disengage at all. It was not fun.

I will admit though there was another reason i sent the car to the mechanic. The other day my CV locked up as i was going around a turn and put my car into a curb at 30 to 35 MPH. It bent my steering rack and fucked the gears up inside of it. Sooo that was replaced. $600 for the entire rack. But thats $200 cheaper than the stealership.

Anyway, the steering is amazing now with all new fluid and everything. It turns sooo easy with less resistance than before the lock up. Oh and as you can guess i hit with the wheel and as weird as it is, there was no damage to the wheel. It has some curb rash (not much! about 2 inches). They checked the wheel too and its straight also. I also had them change the fluid in the tranny with the new Honda MTF. And I can tell everyone that it it shifts so smooth now.

As for my flywheel, they took it off and checked it for cracks and heat damage. It came out that the flywheel was still straight, not warped, and no heat damage. They didnt need to resurface it or anything. I am not getting any vibrations either from it.

As for the clutch feel. Its nice and solid. Catches about maybe 1/10 of the travel if that.

So:

-Having a CV joint lock up and put you into the curb: a shitload of fear and what the hell is happening
-Total price of parts: $1000
-Total Cost of labor: $850
-Seeing your clutch fall apart: WOW

-getting your car back from the shop with everything done to it and it steering and clutching like new or better:

PRICELESS!




btw, i was quoted 970 for the clutch and the rack with no new Honda fluid... so $850 with fluid was good to hear.

CL-S 6MT

Lots of things going on, so let me get this straight, I was told that the flywheel needs to be changed with the clutch it cant be reused.. is that a myth? Also how much was the labor for the clutch?

artbran

iTrader: (2)

I spoke with a lot of Honda/Acura guys at various dealers around the country about the flywheel and replacement of it. They say that they check it for problems every time that they change clutches. If and only if there are problems (cracks, heat damage, or anything like that) then they change them but if there is no sign of that, then they don't change it. They do however take it off and check it to make sure that there is no warping in them and see if they are balanced or not and also thickness of the plate.

I heard that you need to change it too but i had the shop that i went to check it out the same way and they told me that it was fine and that it was not warped, cracked or messed up in any way.

Oh and about 5% of the guys that i spoke with told me that they always change them even if its not needed. The other 95% said that they check them and DON'T change them if they don't need to be changed.



labor for the clutch itself came out to $300 or $400. I dont have the bill in front of me but total, with parts and everything, it came out to be $600 something.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Did they use the special tool for the PP removal? I'm wondering cause the service manual makes it sound like if you don't you'll fubar the clutch/tranny in a heartbeat.

I'm in that 5% that would have changed the flywheel. I'd rather spend a little more $ now then have an expensive problem later.

Also you drove the car on a bad clutch for a while right? Did that damage anything else?

CL-S 6MT

I mean my car does have 107k, the clutch slips a little, dosent grip as well as it did, come summer i will get it done. where did you get the clutch?

artbran

iTrader: (2)

They said that they did everything by the book. Whether they used a tool or not i dont know, but i'm guessing that they did as it was done right and nothing is wrong with it.

The clutch disc was worn out and had a crack in it. The flywheel was in ideal shape they said. The PP was just black from the clutch dust. No burns or anything. If i drove on that clutch anymore than what i did, the pack that was cracked would have fallen off and screwed everything up; the flywheel, pp, and all the bearings he said.




go to acuraautomotiveparts.org and look up the clutch for our car. you will see that they are only like $250 for the PP and the Clutch Disc.

http://acuraautomotiveparts.org/acur...s=&view=normal

Its $235.34 for the PP and the disc. Or Part #9
and $27.30 for the Pilot Bearing which is Part #7
finally:

http://acuraautomotiveparts.org/acur...s=&view=normal

and $33.16 for the release bearing which is part #2

fsttyms1

I installed mine without the special tool. I just worked my way around with the bolts. slowly until they were seated all the way. I have 18k or so on it now and it works just fine

Allout

You did it right.

The tool compresses the pressure plate evenly without damaging it. Doing it the way you did works equally well. You just have to have patience.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

Which of the two clutches is it? Because for part #9, there are two that show up with different part numbers. I went ahead and ordered the sencond one, but really hope not to have to return it when I take this car apart this weekend.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

I just ordered the UR flywheel. I'll be the guenea pig for this one. I'll be sure to let you know how it feels. I really didnt want to be the guenea pig for that $1500 clutch set you guys have going on. I'll wait to see how everyone likes it, and when needed, go with that if the results are good.

Allout

Does it use the stock pressure plate and friction disk?

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

I guess I'll find out the hard way.