My problem isn't a constant nuisance but it seems to show up when the outside tempature is above 85 and I'm in town(stop and go). It is idleing high when and I have to force the brake to keep it stop. When I release it my car is VERY jerky. RPMs are normally 800 and won't go below 1200 when it acts up.

Today I noticed that it was slowly accelerating on its own and changing gears with my foot completely off of the gas. It stoped just shy of 4th hear or 50 mph.

My transmission has been rebuilt. New timing and serpentine belts. Also, both throttle bodies and sensors with it.

Any ideas are welcome. THX

 

Idle air control valve on the fritz ,

 

That's the first thing i replaced. Followed by another one that came with a new throttle body.. its be reset several times.

 

Check this thread out on the 2G TL side. It sounds familiar to your issue?

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ura-tl-980676/

 

THX for the link. They said to keep you coolant full and mine was 1/2 full between min and max so i topped it off. Hope that get it.

I just filled it up a few months ago. What could cause it to loose it that fast?

 

^
There also is the 'Throttle body bypass' modification that you can consider. Not sure of your location, or whether it will help with your issue, though. The factory made it this way to keep the TB warm / hot during winter driving up north. The link below shows a DIY to give you an idea:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ss-dyi-723533/

 

I topped of the colliant a week or 2 ago and it has ran fine until today. I have been keeping an eye on the levels daily.today has been stop and go with several 2-5 mile trips to and from. It was idleing a little high until on my final stretch home. As stated above my car has been acting like my throttle isn't fully releasing and giving it the slightest amount of fuel when I release the pedal. It seems to reset itself if I come to a complete stop until I release the pedal again.

 

I looked into this but during the winter months it get below 32°.
Unless i can switch back and forth depending on the season.

 

^
It may be prudent to take a can of carb cleaner and spray down the inside of the throttle body, around the valve and rod, to free up any built up debris that may have accumulated?
The presence of debris may keep the TB valve from fully closing; thus, causing the car to 'creep' at high idle?

 

Haven't looked at that yet. It is less than 3 months old but worth a shot. I did find this though and cleaned them out...EGR ports?



Left port clean..right side is almost completely clogged.

 

If the TB'(s) are 'new' then debris build up may not be a part of the issue. However, check to see if the throttle cable adjustment may be to tight? Who knows, maybe when they installed the new TB they made the adjustment to tight?

 

I haven't been driving much but It has still acted up a few times. I plan to disassemble the intake and clean it.

Also I've made sure my cooliant has stayed at max. Could I flush out the old and add new cooliant? It might not be working as well. My tempature has always been fine.

 

EGR ports could be cleaner...but I would also check the IAC valve. that thing can get clogged up and not freely rotate back and forth to allow air past the butterfly valve. i.e. not freely control the idle speed.

Felt it most when I left off the gas: car will drop down below the idle speed and slow crawl back up to normal idle. engine has to be at operating temp.

 

I cleaned all 6 egr ports. I haven't disassemble the intake yet but plan on it. As for the the IAC, it is new along with my TB, TBS and other sensors that go with the TB.

I wish it would throw a code or stay a consistent problem then I might figure it out. My mechanic has messed with it off and on for a solid month now.

 

Since you mentioned you took apart a few things up here, Have you checked for any vacuum leaks? I believe the OBDII reader will show up with weird fuel trim values if this were a culprit.