Second gen CL/TL throttle coolant bypass DYI
04-25-2009, 10:30 PM
#1
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Second gen CL/TL throttle coolant bypass DYI
I searched for a dyi for the throttle coolant bypass with no luck until I found this perfect dyi. It was not created by me so I thank UltraMagneticAL for it and post the original link:
http://www./forum/f13/...ictures-17930/
okay...this is pretty much a FREE mod. i know all you peeps out there like that...free engine upgrade....well this is pretty much an easy diy that adds about 2-5hp (i saw the dyno somewhere, but i forgot where).
There is a color code in the letters...red means you just totally disconnect those, blue you connect together somehow, and white is just a guide so you know where you are in the engine bay. Oh yeah, do this mod when your car has been sitting for a while, that way you don't spill hot coolant on yourself. You'll need needlenose pliers to remove the clamps and to pull some of the hoses off, and some coolant in case you spill too much.
I took the intake piping off so it would be easier to work with. Disconnect points A and B. The hose that came from A will connect to point C, and the hose that came from B, you just put aside. some hoses are easier to connect that others, so switch them around as you like just as long as you get point C to connect with point D.
Does the metal pipe at E look familiar? there's a coolant line that runs through there so i just moved it under the intake pipe. F is the main coolant line that runs back to the radiator. D is located just above F, near the block. The next picture illustrates that the best:
Once you get C to connect D using any combination of hoses, then you're pretty much finished. This is what the final layout should look like:
for your reference, the stock flow goes from A to B to E to D. Points A and B are input and output from the throttle body. we simply bypass those by adding the point C and connecting it to E. I have no clue how this mod adds power, but i know it does. I felt a slight gain after doing this, plus my gas mileage is slightly better. my engine temp gauge sits between 1/8-1/4 depending if it's cold or hot outside. normally it would of been at 1/4-1/2. so my guess is that the engine runs slightly cooler, thus adding more power. hell it works.
Again thanks UltraMagneticAL for this writeup.
http://www./forum/f13/...ictures-17930/
okay...this is pretty much a FREE mod. i know all you peeps out there like that...free engine upgrade....well this is pretty much an easy diy that adds about 2-5hp (i saw the dyno somewhere, but i forgot where).
There is a color code in the letters...red means you just totally disconnect those, blue you connect together somehow, and white is just a guide so you know where you are in the engine bay. Oh yeah, do this mod when your car has been sitting for a while, that way you don't spill hot coolant on yourself. You'll need needlenose pliers to remove the clamps and to pull some of the hoses off, and some coolant in case you spill too much.
I took the intake piping off so it would be easier to work with. Disconnect points A and B. The hose that came from A will connect to point C, and the hose that came from B, you just put aside. some hoses are easier to connect that others, so switch them around as you like just as long as you get point C to connect with point D.
Does the metal pipe at E look familiar? there's a coolant line that runs through there so i just moved it under the intake pipe. F is the main coolant line that runs back to the radiator. D is located just above F, near the block. The next picture illustrates that the best:
Once you get C to connect D using any combination of hoses, then you're pretty much finished. This is what the final layout should look like:
for your reference, the stock flow goes from A to B to E to D. Points A and B are input and output from the throttle body. we simply bypass those by adding the point C and connecting it to E. I have no clue how this mod adds power, but i know it does. I felt a slight gain after doing this, plus my gas mileage is slightly better. my engine temp gauge sits between 1/8-1/4 depending if it's cold or hot outside. normally it would of been at 1/4-1/2. so my guess is that the engine runs slightly cooler, thus adding more power. hell it works.
Again thanks UltraMagneticAL for this writeup.
04-25-2009, 11:27 PM
#3
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Coolant is running through the throttlebody, unless you live where it gets below 32 that is unnecessary.
It takes some heat out of the intake tract.
I meant to say I removed the metal pipe labeled E.
It takes some heat out of the intake tract.
I meant to say I removed the metal pipe labeled E.
04-26-2009, 12:15 AM
#4
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Thats a coincedence, I was planning on doing this tomorrow.
They do that so ice doesn't form in the tb when it is cold out. Ive also heard some shit about it being for emission but who cares.
They do that so ice doesn't form in the tb when it is cold out. Ive also heard some shit about it being for emission but who cares.
04-26-2009, 12:21 AM
#6
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Ill take some pictures when doing it, so people dont freak when they're looking at an H series tb.
04-26-2009, 12:21 AM
#7
Whats up with RDX owners?
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04-26-2009, 12:27 AM
#8
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04-26-2009, 05:24 AM
#9
6speed
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04-26-2009, 08:26 AM
#10
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I just wanted to be 100% sure of what I was doing before I took it apart.
I did it yesterday without removing the CAI in under 10 minutes, including putting in a new vacuum hose so I could remove the metal tube.
04-26-2009, 01:40 PM
#11
MP90 uninstalled
This is a good mod. Its similar to installing a Cold Air Intake. Looks like there is a little confusion on how it works so I thought I might clear it up a little for those of you who are interested.
The purpose of the coolant running through the throttle body is only to prevent ice from forming in it as stated by an earlier poster. I don't think it has anything to do with emissions and is only a safety measure. The ice could cause the engine to run like crap or, say you were cruising on the interstate for a few hours in -5 degree weather, the throttle plate could get stuck open and you would find yourself in a sticky situation. I don’t think it’s likely that it would happen unless you were in a seriously cold environment because there will always be thermal energy transferred to the intake since it is still in the hot engine bay connected to a 200+ degree block of metal near 1000+ degree headers but Honda and every other manufacturer does it to cover their ass from a lawsuit in case of an accident caused by it. I will tell you that if you think you will be driving in extremely cold weather you MUST remember to reconnect the hot coolant loop so you don't possibly kill yourself or someone else in the event the throttle body did get stuck open. Even in the South you could get in trouble if the temp went freakishly low.
Removing the loop stops the hot coolant from entering the throttle body and thus the throttle body stays much cooler, closer to ambient temperature. By staying cooler, the intake air charge is not warmed up as much from the transfer of thermal energy in the hot throttle body to the intake air charge passing through it like a radiator. The coolant that runs through the throttle body is about 200+ degrees so the throttle body will be much cooler without it.
Because air molecules expand when heated and contract when cooled, cooler air is more dense air. More dense air has more oxygen molecules per given volume. That translates to the air entering the combustion chambers to also be slightly more dense with oxygen. When the air entering the combustion chambers is more dense, the ECM can inject more fuel to react with the extra oxygen and thus you have a slightly larger explosion. It’s the same affect as driving in 40 degree weather vs. driving in 110 degree weather. When the air getting into the combustion chambers is colder you always make more power. You have probably noticed your car feels faster when you open it up on the winter nights vs. the hot summer days.
This is the same effect the Outlaw Engineering spacers provide. They limit the rate of thermal energy transfer from the engine block to the upper intake manifold so it stays cooler and does not warm the intake air as much as it passes through. The throttle body spacers with the Outlaw kit only serve to isolate the hot throttle body (with throttle body coolant loop connected) from the upper intake manifold so it doesn’t get much heat transfer from the hot throttle body. The coolant bypass eliminates the need for the throttle body spacer with the Outlaw engineering kit. Some people think there is still a gain from adding volume to the upper intake manifold with the TB spacer but that increased volume is so slight that there would be no increase in power in my opinion.
The purpose of the coolant running through the throttle body is only to prevent ice from forming in it as stated by an earlier poster. I don't think it has anything to do with emissions and is only a safety measure. The ice could cause the engine to run like crap or, say you were cruising on the interstate for a few hours in -5 degree weather, the throttle plate could get stuck open and you would find yourself in a sticky situation. I don’t think it’s likely that it would happen unless you were in a seriously cold environment because there will always be thermal energy transferred to the intake since it is still in the hot engine bay connected to a 200+ degree block of metal near 1000+ degree headers but Honda and every other manufacturer does it to cover their ass from a lawsuit in case of an accident caused by it. I will tell you that if you think you will be driving in extremely cold weather you MUST remember to reconnect the hot coolant loop so you don't possibly kill yourself or someone else in the event the throttle body did get stuck open. Even in the South you could get in trouble if the temp went freakishly low.
Removing the loop stops the hot coolant from entering the throttle body and thus the throttle body stays much cooler, closer to ambient temperature. By staying cooler, the intake air charge is not warmed up as much from the transfer of thermal energy in the hot throttle body to the intake air charge passing through it like a radiator. The coolant that runs through the throttle body is about 200+ degrees so the throttle body will be much cooler without it.
Because air molecules expand when heated and contract when cooled, cooler air is more dense air. More dense air has more oxygen molecules per given volume. That translates to the air entering the combustion chambers to also be slightly more dense with oxygen. When the air entering the combustion chambers is more dense, the ECM can inject more fuel to react with the extra oxygen and thus you have a slightly larger explosion. It’s the same affect as driving in 40 degree weather vs. driving in 110 degree weather. When the air getting into the combustion chambers is colder you always make more power. You have probably noticed your car feels faster when you open it up on the winter nights vs. the hot summer days.
This is the same effect the Outlaw Engineering spacers provide. They limit the rate of thermal energy transfer from the engine block to the upper intake manifold so it stays cooler and does not warm the intake air as much as it passes through. The throttle body spacers with the Outlaw kit only serve to isolate the hot throttle body (with throttle body coolant loop connected) from the upper intake manifold so it doesn’t get much heat transfer from the hot throttle body. The coolant bypass eliminates the need for the throttle body spacer with the Outlaw engineering kit. Some people think there is still a gain from adding volume to the upper intake manifold with the TB spacer but that increased volume is so slight that there would be no increase in power in my opinion.
Last edited by jproy; 04-26-2009 at 01:42 PM.
04-26-2009, 02:20 PM
#12
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I have the P2R Spacer & gaskets and wanted to do this also to make the intake air as cool as possible.
Great explanation jproy.
Thanks
Great explanation jproy.
Thanks
04-26-2009, 04:37 PM
#15
MP90 uninstalled
The outlaw kit came with the coupler also but it isnt necessary. There is enough length on the hoses to remove one of them and loop the other hose end to where you removed the other hose. CleanCL made me aware of this a few months ago. Like CleanCL said, I dont see ice ever becoming an issue but if it did I dont want you saying I didnt says so. Its why Honda did it in the first place.
04-26-2009, 05:00 PM
#16
Whats up with RDX owners?
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04-26-2009, 05:19 PM
#18
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Haven't taken a test drive yet. I may go out for a drive tonight if not Ill let you know tomorrow. Its in the 80s right now so it *should* make a slight difference.
04-26-2009, 05:51 PM
#19
which kit ??
the one frm p2r or the one frm outlaw engineering ??
look what i found "article "
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-t...dy-spacer.html
04-26-2009, 09:24 PM
#21
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Didnt notice much of a difference on the quick drive this evening. It was still 86* out though, so I wasn't expecting much.
04-26-2009, 10:37 PM
#22
which kit ??
the one frm p2r or the one frm outlaw engineering ??
look what i found "article "
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-t...dy-spacer.html
the one frm p2r or the one frm outlaw engineering ??
look what i found "article "
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-t...dy-spacer.html
04-27-2009, 04:41 AM
#23
6speed
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04-27-2009, 06:29 PM
#25
Whats up with RDX owners?
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So far no, but only put about 15 miles on the car since yesturday. Tomorrow is the real test.
04-28-2009, 04:17 PM
#28
Advanced
Just did this in my car (03 cl-s). I am pretty sure this is right. Please have a look and if you have questions i will answer them to the best of my knowledge. Anyone is welcome to add their thoughts or let me know asap if i did this wrong... hope not 
I detached both ends of the red dotted coolant line.
The red parts indicate where the coolant line ran that i took off.
Picture from the front of the engine with the bypass complete.
Make sure you plug in any electrical things you may have unplugged during the process. I tried starting my car at first and it stalled after 3 seconds.. i closed my eyes in shock and seen a blurry word.. looked like 'FAIL'
then i remembered i unplugged my map sensor. Plugged it back in and everything works. Will post if i feel any gains and will be watching my temp gauge.. should be a slight increase i hope.
I detached both ends of the red dotted coolant line.
The red parts indicate where the coolant line ran that i took off.
Picture from the front of the engine with the bypass complete.
Make sure you plug in any electrical things you may have unplugged during the process. I tried starting my car at first and it stalled after 3 seconds.. i closed my eyes in shock and seen a blurry word.. looked like 'FAIL'
then i remembered i unplugged my map sensor. Plugged it back in and everything works. Will post if i feel any gains and will be watching my temp gauge.. should be a slight increase i hope.
04-28-2009, 06:02 PM
#32
Advanced
You will probably notice it in warmer weather and more so on a dyno with numbers rather than on the street. took me only 10 minutes to do and with no extra parts. I have done this before on my integra and never had my throttle get stuck from cold temps here in Chicago.
04-28-2009, 07:37 PM
#34
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
It was about 90 here today and I noticed that the car felt like it had more power. Getting on i95 earlier i was able to beast it alittle more then usual. It could have been just one of those days where she ran good though. This car is very inconsistent.
04-28-2009, 07:50 PM
#36
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Mine seems a bit quicker, it was 95 here today.
I pulled the VSA throttlebody off today and felt no difference, I am not thrilled leaving it off but with it on the 71MM bored throttlebody is useless, I may be selling it.
I pulled the VSA throttlebody off today and felt no difference, I am not thrilled leaving it off but with it on the 71MM bored throttlebody is useless, I may be selling it.
04-29-2009, 12:29 PM
#38
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Yea probably, but two days in a row now, the car has been driving great. We'll see in the long term.
04-29-2009, 03:13 PM
#39
keep us updated, although i doubt i will be doing, even though im not worried about the throttle freezing. plus since no "real" differences can be felt. if it improves MPGs or longevity of the engine then ill do it.
faster warm up time is better for me cause the engine/tranny slams into reverse on a cold start.
faster warm up time is better for me cause the engine/tranny slams into reverse on a cold start.
04-29-2009, 08:38 PM
#40
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Lately Ive noticed that I've been driving hard on it, so getting a MPG figure from me isnt the best idea. But I averaged 26mpg mixed, and I beat the shit out of the car.