TitaniumCLS6MT

http://www5.snapfish.com/snapfish/th...28_4969910028/ (these are in order - you have to setup a snapfish account)

Here are the pics from my weekend project. I spent (1) 8hr day and (1) 20 hr day completing the clutch install. I wasted a ton of time making tools. There aren't any pics of the transmission dropped - it got pretty messy & ugly at that point. So I steered clear of the camera. (make sure you drain your tranny fluid - I spilled a ton of it on my nice garage floor ugh - thinking I could get by without changing it since it was already fresh). Tips: have your car as high as freaking possible on four stands. Use a well made engine hoist that allows you to swing the tranny around easily. The floor jack attachement would have come in handy too. I used ratcheting tie downs to hold the engine & trans while I dropped the trans slowly with the floor jack. Trans weighs about 85 pounds with fluid. Make sure you compress the pressure plate forks until they stop moving - this is done when removing the pressure plate and when re-installing the pressure plate. ** The compressor tool needs to have an open cavity to allow the disk alignment tool to remain in place. If you

This was f*#%ing difficult. Do not attempt this unless you know what the hell you're getting in to. I really wish I had a back up car so I could've done this slowly (clean every part, replace every seal & bearing etc). But I didn't so it was done quick & dirty. IMO the $1400 quoted by the dealer would be money well spent.

supplies: puller, prypar, 4ft cheater bar, 36mm axle nut socket, clutch fork compressor tool, engine support/hoist, floor jack & 4 car stands, every metric deep/shallow angle swivel /socket extensions etc, any other box end open end ratcheting metric wrench you can find, clutch spline alignment tool, trans fluid, degreaser. Probably some more...

The transmission seemed to come out better when tilting the back upward instead of downward like in the manual. If I tilted it down, it hit the frame by the firewall.

TitaniumCLS6MT

for the "If you...." above

If you don't compress the forks, you will damage the whole setup.

CL-Future

Ahhh, I have to join the site to view the pics?

Anywho you definitely get points for attempting and doing this on your own. I learned a while that having the right tools makes it a lot easier. I think I may have glazed my OEM disc trying to get out of a parking spot in this blizzard we just had so I'll need to have this done soon.

tr59210

can't access your photoalbum without registering...just host your photos on AZINE in your personal album and they'll be on the site pretty much forever. no worries about bandwidth, pictures getting taken down and what not.

TitaniumCLS6MT

TitaniumCLS6MT

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Not a job for the faint of heart.

+1 internet for taking pics along the way.

tr59210

you win 25 internets! Thats the highest number of internets you can win at once. be proud of what you have accomplished.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

I learned long ago, this type of work isn't worth my time & sanity.
But $1400!! That's nuts. 3 dealers by me quoted $800-$900. A Honda shop quoted me $700.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

My mechanic did this for $400 im glad i let him do it.

Gratz for a mission accomplished.

Did you use lock tite for flywheel ? Hows the car ? Did u replace resurfaced flywheel ? Bearings ?

TheWeez

Nice job doing it yourself. That's something I'd gladly pay my shop $300 or so to do.

phee

iTrader: (5)

just went through all this with my 3rd gear synchro rebuild. now i have to take it apart to rebuild reverse

TitaniumCLS6MT

i guess the labor rates dropped with the economy. the $1400 w/ parts was quoted to me a couple years ago. back then a honda shop told me $900 which was way better than the dealer.

$5-700 is a bargain

pb22

iTrader: (5)

why is your front mount not a hydraulic mount?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thats the Innovative mount.

TitaniumCLS6MT

I just replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, release fork boot, and throwout bearing. The flywheel was fine - just had to clean all the clutch dust out of it. The original pilot bearing turned smoothly without any play so I kept it in there too. The old throwout bearing dug some deep channels into the pressure plate forks.

Car runs great now. Shifts much better. After 170000miles, the old clutch was chattering bad. 3rd gear winds up smoothly to 85+ mph still.