4pumpedCL

I'm not an expert, but I think it's hard to compare dyno results when everyone is testing at different locations. There are so many variables that can effect the performance. Altitude and temperature being a few...Is it possible that some of these people with "faster" CLs are just in a climate that results in a higher dyno?

Aaron

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2001 CL-P, new project undergoing complete reconstruction. As of now: Custom CAI fabricated by SRD, Polarg M6 bulbs, 4 ProHopper Chrome hydraulic pumps with whammy tanks, 4 ProHopper dumps, 4 Optima marine deep-cycle batteries, 4 switches. Much much more to come...

1997 Accord coupe EX-L. Chrome suspension, Chrome motor, every bolt-on imaginable. One pump, 8 dump hydraulics with accumulators. Leather, Billet grills, 18" Neeper Shadows...etc..etc http://www.artofnoize.com/Cars/aaron.htm

1990 Toyota standard cab. Bodydropped 3". 17" KMC Nemesis', extensive suspension work. 4 wheel airbags.

tankmonkey

absolutely.

Technique

Ya, that's one. Another is the driver (even though it's an automatic). And the newest theory (see the "Is 76 really the best gas?") is the type of gasoline you use.

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Silver CL-S w/ Navi, Spoiler, Wheel Locks, Trunk Tray, 19169, 9005
Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1-S Proxes on 17X8 SSR Competition Wheels (47.2 lbs lighter than stock wheel+tire setup)
G-Tech (Full tank of gas, 60F, VSA off, SS) - 5.93 seconds
V-1 Hardwired, Comptech Sways on order

JZ

There is no doubt in my mind that difference of a few HP (or even 10hp) can be attributed to different dynos, different gear used to dyno, different temps/humidity etc, different gas, do they have fans blowing on the car or not, temp of the car. There are so many things that are different from dyno run to dyno run between different cars that I wouldn't lose sleep if your car has only 198hp vs 206 or whatever.

And that story about the stock CL beating the CL with the intake--I'm sure it's true, but do you really think that a "fast" CL that's putting 7-8 hp above what some others have dyno'd would PULL AWAY from a CL with an intake unless there is some problem with that car or the driver? All things equal, even if the CLS with the intake was weak, the increase from the CAI should at least level the playing field. That's why I said the guy should check his IMRC actuator b/c that little thing can sap a lot of HP and torque if it's not opening.

I mean, come on--we are talking about a THEORETICAL 7-8 hp advantage over other dyno'd CLS. 7-8 hp is not going to drop your 1/4 mile from 15 to 14sec.
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Black/black CLS
Comptech headers, springs, swaybars
Koni yellows
PIAA 19169 road lamps
Solaris Hi beams
Potenza RE730 225/45/17
Red AEM CAI
35% mirror tint next

[This message has been edited by JZ (edited 03-16-2001).]

TakeFlight

I don't know much about this but aren't you supposed to get two sets of results from a dyno? The first set of results are true results for the conditions where your car was tested. So, those numbers are accurate if compared to another car tested in the same conditions.

The second set of results are referred to as "corrected" results which can be compared to everyone else's "corrected" results no matter where it was done. They will be accurate because they have been "corrected" to account for different atmospheric conditions.

I know I've seen this myself when my friend got his '98 Camaro Z28 dynoed. He has made a comment to me that when he has visited this forum he noticed that nobody ever posts their "corrected" dyno results which means you really can't compare results with others on the forum. However, on the Z28 forum he visits, it's common place to post the "corrected" results for comparison sake.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S - San Marino Red / Parchment
non-nav - wheel locks - splash guards - PIAA 19169s
#26519

NYREP1

i think there is such a thing as a"fast car" a freind has integra gsr that frequently out runs type-r's and modded gsr's, and his car is bone stock

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2001 acura cl type-s
comming soon
2000 accord v6 sedan
1997 4runner
1992 camaro
1993 volvo 850
"Tell me kid, have you ever danced with the devil in the pale moon light"

JZ

But what do you call a fast car? Do you think that a TypeR with an exta 4 HP (and we're talking about a small 4cvl) will PULL AWAY from a stock R?

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Black/black CLS
Comptech headers, springs, swaybars
Koni yellows
PIAA 19169 road lamps
Solaris Hi beams
Potenza RE730 225/45/17
Red AEM CAI
35% mirror tint next

EricL

Yep, the WinPep has a SAE correction to compensate for air temp, humidity, and air pressure. I have looked through "some" of the dynos, and they will have a little note about the time, temp, and SAE correction.

I would have to look through the whole forum to comment on how many are not "corrected." You have a great point, and maybe Adam (Soopa) or someone could add a dyno FAQ with tips on getting great dyno data!

BTW -- I can think of an example that would account for a difference in dynos for the same exact car WITH "corrections". If the computer in the car adjusts power output in a way that is non-linear with respect to the dynos "correction", there would be a small difference from run to run. The SAE correction adjusts based on "pure" physics and math. Car engines and their current computers are not so perfect. I have seen graphs of one member's dyno, where he had it corrected, and each pull was higher than the last.

1. I could speculate on-and-on, but what would be the point. AS long as the current batch of engine computers do not have a "SAE" correct-to map, there is going to be differences with temp and other factors even after a dyno's SAE correction.

So, yes you are quite right and I think the dynos SHOULD be SAE corrected.

However, there will be differences from run-to-run *and* there will be small differences between cars that are tested.

Here are some differences that are not listed:

Gas used (what octane, winter or summer gas).

What oil was used (some good synthetic, or some not-so-hot multi-weight that was past its prime [viscosity agents not working well].

Where is the temp for the SAE corrections being measured (ambient, under hood, inside the air intake [where in the air intake])?

(I've seen some great people and hopeless people at work.) It must be the same for dyno operators.

Then there is the issue of dyno upkeep and age. Not being a DynoJet rep, I can't tell you how some of these are being maintained, or how old they are.

Finally, I think most of the members on this forum are rather sharp. When a couple of the members had funny looking torque curves, that didn't match the results of the other members (within a few percent), it lead to the discovery of problems in the MIRC actuator/system.

(Yep, rather long, and I probably opened more points for dispute, but dyno operators are not all Scientists in Level 3 Biohazard Labs.)



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2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI

• Mud Guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
• Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
• Zaino magic
• 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
• Sways, headers, CAI comming soon

tankmonkey

dear ericl:

this was a lucid, well-reasoned and thorough post indicating a great deal of consideration and reflection on your part.

clearly, it has no place on this forum and if you don't cease and desist these attempts at raising the literacy and conciousness level of this web population, we'll have no choice but to have you branded a heretic and stoned (note the double meaning when used on this forum) into submission by the other members of the group.

I trust you will take one for the team and refrain from any further enlightenment in the future. resistance is futile. assimilation is mandatory. have a nice day.

kind regards,

tank

Nashua_Night_Hawk

Yeah, monkey, all what you know is how to replace the "turn-signal fluid" and how promote the selling of your CLS powerband....

What a fucked-up brain you have? ...

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Black, Ebony, 3.2 CL Type-S.
- Acura NAV.
- 3M clear bra (full front bumper, and side mirros)
- Wheels locks.
- Mooonroof visor
- Splash guards,
- Winter mats,
- Trunk liner,
- Acura Spoiler.
- Valentine V1 Radar Locator.
- PIAA 19169 road lamps.
- 03/19/01: Injen Polished CAI

YuppieCL

it may also have alot to do with WHEN the car was built, and how OLD it is and how many MILES is has.

at 20,000 miles.... how much hp ya think a car (our car) loses? of course assuming "Break-in" went well and the car was treated well too.

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YuppieCL
'90 Accord LX
'01 3.2CL Type S
#6487, Satin Silver, Navi, Spoiler, Comptech springs, 35% Llumar window tint
PhotoPoint Pics!

tankmonkey

actually, it was the spare powerband after my muffler bearing warranty work...

but shhhhh... I don't want an over-zealous (but well-meaning and incredibly intelligent) moderator to close the thread because we're discussing forbidden topics.

I just wish folks around here weren't so quick to bash that which they don't understand...

just watch, though, someone will read that post and take the wrong idea from it and attempt to defend someone from what amounts to a *complement* couched in sarcasm... (but I know you won't do that, nashua! )