ooze48

I have been waiting about 4 weeks for a local guy to order and then install my Tein SS/Ingalls Rear Camber kits. I'm tired of waiting and have decided to attempt the install myself even though I've never really done anything like this. I am going to his shop soon to pickup my stuff.

I have done a ton of reading and have compiled a document with as many suspension/tein install tips as I could find, however almost all of the document has come from JTso's postings (thanks JTso!). There are 2 versions that anyone is welcome to d/l:

PDF: http://home.ptd.net/~rmirro/TSX/TSX-...stallNotes.pdf
WORD: http://home.ptd.net/~rmirro/TSX/TSX-...stallNotes.doc

I have some questions about some of the tips I read:

1. Some people sprayed everything with silicone lubricant as they install it. I'm assuming "everything" meant all parts of the coil over assemby ONLY (such as on the washers, rubber bushings, collar, etc) but am not sure. Is it recommended that I use silicone lubricant?

2. If yes, do I spray it on just the parts of the coil over that get assembled or do I put it on everything including the nuts/bolts that connect to the car?

3. If yes to #1 or #2, is silicone spray the best thing to use? I've also heard silicone grease and teflon tape mentioned. Is either of those better than using a spray?

4. Should I put some sort of anti-seize stuff on all nuts/bolts that I remove/remount to the car?

5. Do I need to apply some sort of rust proofing spray to part of (or the entire) tein coilover?

6. When I adjust the ride height on the Tein SS, the instruction state to be sure spring seats are locked when I'm done. Is this easily apparent when they become locked or is it just a matter of tightening the bottom spring seat thing into the upper spring seat as tight as it will go?

7. The 04-05 service manual (page 18-26) mentions that a new dampnening fork mounting nut upon reassembly of the front suspension. Is this true? I though the only nut that had to be replaced is the top nut on the damper shafts?

8. I never used a torque wrench before. The service manual states I need to use a hex wrench to hold the top of the damper shaft when I install those new top nuts (1 for each damper). How do I use a hex wrench AND a torque wrench at the same time (I'm assuming a torque wrench is like a ratchet/socket).

Thanks!

ooze48

Are my questions too long or too lame?

I'm gonna cover the entire car in silicon if no one answers.

xizor

too many questions but quickly, i used silicone spray on the rubber OEM topmounts that you reuse. anti-seize isn't a bad idea, I didn't use it on bolts, might help in the long run. rust proofing on the threads is also a good idea. locking is a just a matter of tightening the top to the bottom, its pretty obvious. You don't really need a new mounting nut, I reused my top nuts as well. And you can't torque the tops w/ the hex wrench, at lesat not w/ a normal one. You can tigthen it till the washer slips on the rubber, you wont go over the limit

ooze48

Awesome, thanks for clearing that up!

I wasn't sure how important torquing is but figured it must have some effect on things if someone went thru the trouble of listing torque settings for a particular nut. Assuming most people have a normal torgue wrench, I'm guessing most people don't torque the top nut. If they can get away with it, I hope I can too. I guess I just have to tighten it as much as I can and hope it's on tight enough?

CJams

Dammit xizor! I've never seen a tsx covered in silicon! That would have been cool!

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

My


1. Some people sprayed everything with silicone lubricant as they install it. I'm assuming "everything" meant all parts of the coil over assemby ONLY (such as on the washers, rubber bushings, collar, etc) but am not sure. Is it recommended that I use silicone lubricant?
-----I don't spray anything. Why would you need to?

2. If yes, do I spray it on just the parts of the coil over that get assembled or do I put it on everything including the nuts/bolts that connect to the car?
-----Again.....I see no need for any lub of any kind, unless your bolts are rusty. Also, some high-temp grease or anti-seize on the lug studs is not a bad idea.

3. If yes to #1 or #2, is silicone spray the best thing to use? I've also heard silicone grease and teflon tape mentioned. Is either of those better than using a spray?
-----If stuff was rusty, I would use a penetrating lube. Usually this is a specific stuff that says 'penetrant' on the can. Only use for losening.

4. Should I put some sort of anti-seize stuff on all nuts/bolts that I remove/remount to the car?
-----Just the wheel studs

5. Do I need to apply some sort of rust proofing spray to part of (or the entire) tein coilover?
-----No, there is an oil applied from the factory. You may want to do a seasonal cleaning down there to prevent crud buildup and control surface rust.

6. When I adjust the ride height on the Tein SS, the instruction state to be sure spring seats are locked when I'm done. Is this easily apparent when they become locked or is it just a matter of tightening the bottom spring seat thing into the upper spring seat as tight as it will go?
------Tighten the two green collars together. There is not 'click' or specific 'lock setting.' Just make them tight. And you don't need to kill them either. On the TSX, they are highly unlikely to ever come loose on their own.

7. The 04-05 service manual (page 18-26) mentions that a new dampnening fork mounting nut upon reassembly of the front suspension. Is this true? I though the only nut that had to be replaced is the top nut on the damper shafts?
------Don't worry about that. You won't need to. In all honesty, you can reuse the damper nuts too.....but the Teins come with new ones so use those.

8. I never used a torque wrench before. The service manual states I need to use a hex wrench to hold the top of the damper shaft when I install those new top nuts (1 for each damper). How do I use a hex wrench AND a torque wrench at the same time (I'm assuming a torque wrench is like a ratchet/socket).
-----You can't. But don't worry, just tighten the nut like normal. It does not have to be really tight, and it is not under a load that would cause it to losen itself. Just don't over tighten it. Maybe feel how snug you make the bolt where the shock goes into the fork, and make it the same tightness.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

You have to be careful with that.....I imagine you might have done this to preven potential noise or squeaking, but you can mess yourself up here.

There needs to be no lube here....there is no movement of the spring against the rubber. Notice how there is no lube there from the factory?

Many silicone sprays are very slippery when wet, but once they dry they can become gummy and actually promote squeaking or noises or sticking of rubber on metal/glass/plastic.....

Also, silicone and petrolum sprays create a dirt magnet. Honestly, if you really feel a burning need to use silicone, use a DRY Type rather than a WET type.

ooze48

I don't know. I was thinking there can be no noise if everything is dripping in lube. Seriously, I haven't taken my stock suspension out or received my tein ss kit yet so I can only imagine how all the pieces fit together on the coilover. I was guessing there might be moving parts that may need to be lubed. Plus others mentioned using silicone so I thought maybe they know something I don't.

I'll try to refrane from getting carried away lubing everything because you're right, I don't want to create a dirt magnet.

Thanks for all the tips!

afici0nad0

excellent instructions

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Resurrection!

No, there are no moving piece that need to be lubed.

You are already off on the wrong foot. Message forum mechanics breed misinformation based on assumption and what is perceived to be common sense. In reality, there is no such thing as common sense. Very few of us are professional mechanics and are therefore not even well enough equipped to make an educated guess. So, go to the forums for general information, but do not take what you read here to be fact until you can personally verify it.

Follow instructions to the letter. If you have a problem, contact the manufacturer. This is the #1 way to do any job. I can tell you right now, the suspension will not call for lube anywhere. Don't refrain from getting carried away; just don't lube anything at all!

anthongy817

MrHeeltoe, is it ok to use synthetic grease on the shaft of the coilovers that is covered by the boot?

I did it to my KYB AGX shocks on my prelude and it fixed the squeeking, I do not know if it goes for the Tein SS though.

I used the red Mobil1 Synthetic grease.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

I would not normally see the need for it, but it is worth a try if it remedies a noise. Let me know what happens! I will support you on this.

Marcus

anthongy817

Awesome. I'll give it a try over the coming weekend. I'll report back regardless if it fixes the squeak or not.

aaronng

Just wanted to bump this up. My friend just bought a set of Tein SS for his Accord Euro, and it came with a spray bottle of "Tein Rust Proof". Does that mean that the threads need to be rust-proofed from time to time?

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

It would probably benefit him to a degree, but if you are not in a place where rusting happens on a regular basis then don't really worry about it.

Marcus