At 10,000 miles dealer fixed it under warranty the shaking on the steering wheel, 20,000 miles same thing, around 35,000 again so we decided to get Power Slot rotors with Hawk pads and same problem. Is this a design problem ? Heating on the rotors ? We had a 2003 Acura TL-S and had the same problem.
We had 5 other Hondas before and never had a problems with rotors.

 

My 05 tsx has the same symptoms at 50,000 miles. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can enlighten us.

 

Rudy222: Many people complain about the problem, some say they get aftermarket rotors and pads and problem gets fix but I did that and still have the same problem.

 

Wow, thats interesting. I replaced my brakes withe Power slot rotor + HPS Hawk pads too however, my brakes are great and smooth.

Could the install be the issue for you because I don't have the braking shudder after I replaced my OEMS out.

 

I, too, replaced the OEMs at about 30k miles with Power Slot rotors and Hawk ceramic pads. Have not had a problem since. Did you follow the bedding instructions? Maybe the install was not quite right.

 

Well, it's obvious that if you replace oem with up graded parts we would have a much better chance to get rid of the problem. I've noticed that Healtoe has superior replacement brake parts. I have no choice but to give that a try.

 

Guys I don't think the install can be the problem, dad did it, he has been working on cars all his life. We changed pads before on other Hondas, the problem here is the rotor, now that I remember we did change pads and rotors on a 95 Accord and it was fine. Also I noticed I get more vibration under braking on summer days cause the heat.

Rudy222: What are you planing to get ?

 

It's a common issue with the 1st gen TSX and 7th gen Accord. There is a TSB for this.
We purchased our '07 TSX used from the dealership with 22k miles in January 2009. I took it in back in February of this year for the vibration and dealership wouldn't cover it under warranty because they said they put new pads on and resurfaced the rotors before we purchased the car. I didn't argue with them about it, but if the issue is reappearing less that 20k miles later I'd say there's an issue. I've now got Acura CS working the dealership to have the TSB performed under warranty. If they won't, I'll put aftermarket pads and rotors on the front. I've already got aftermarkets on the rear.

 

Seems like the Power Slot Rotors are what most of the guys are using. I'll probably go with those. I doubt I could find anything better.

 

desmonsm : Like I said before this problems appears every 10k miles even with the Power Slot rotors and Hawk pads, same thing with the 03 TL that we had. My moms 08Civic has close to 10k miles and so far brakes are fine.

 

42k miles on my '06 MT and nary a problem - but I don't beat on it like a rented mule either.

 

racking brake UP slotted rotors check on heeltoe they are heat treated so they wont warp ive had them on for about 30k miles and I work them hard and still no warping..what a great product

 

If you want to drop a little coin and be done with this issue, go for the racing brake product

 

109,000 miles on my 06 tsx with original brakes and rotors

 

With my 88 Civic HB and my 93 Accord went close to that mileage.
With the 03 TL-S and the 04 TSX the problem with the brakes started at 10,000 miles.

 

I bet you anything if you switched to a HT-Spec Stage 0 kit with Racingbrake ET300 pads and BED THEM IN PROPERLY you will not have any more issues.



An HT-Spec Stage 1 would be more consistent over time and the rotors would probably be the last you ever buy for your TSX.

 

i have the same problem ive done the same fixes the race style rotors will help they are better than oem but it sounds like you have the same problem I do I ve been told I have a lead foot and I admit it I go through brakes and rotors quick on any car ive owned if your doing alot of stop and go driving and braking hard like sitting in traffic your rotors wont last long

 

You need new pads man. There is no reason to replace the rotors frequently if the pads are correct for the usage.

And please dude, use some punctuation.

 

I took the rotors couple of days ago to get them machine, so far its good, lets see how long they last.

 

looks like it was typed on his phone

 

 

The original front rotors became warped on my 04 TSX almost a year ago at about 60k (I live close to work). I lived with it for a few months since I recently replaced the pads and the rotors were ok at that time.

From what I've read, it seems to be a common complaint, usually due to warped rotors. I wanted a lower chance of having this issue repeat. And I wanted improved stopping power without buying a pricey BBK.

I elected to replace all of the original rotors and pads with StopTech slotted and cross drilled rotors and matching StopTech pads. I was going to go with Hawk HPS Z pads, but after a few PMs with Excelerate, I elected to go with cheaper StopTech pads.

Got everything 2 days after ordering and put everything on the car that weekend!

The result? Vastly improved stopping power over original parts (of course), with none of the squeaking commonly complained about with brake upgrades and an amount of brake dust on my wheels that I can live with. Plus, the slotted and cross drilled rotors look sweet!

This past weekend, I drove to Glendale, AZ (about 700 miles RT from San Diego) in 112 degree temps with varying elevations. My new brakes performed great. A little more brake dust over OEM pads, but nothing too dramatic, even in these harsh conditions.

Only wish I had switched to this brake setup years ago!

 

I tried Racingbrake rotors with hawk hps pads and that didn't work. Marcus explained to me that the hps pads were still heating up too fast and unevenly depositing material on the rotors. I just switched to racingbrake et500 pads. I told the shop to bed them in using marcus' procedure, but they must not have because my brakes were still shuddering when I picked the car up. I went out last night and bedded them in good with about ten 70-10 stops and now they feel great!

 

Yup the bedding process used by most shops is really inadequate on the the racingbrake rotors!

 

I hope someone or acura can find a fix for this problem.

 

how many of you guys tighten your wheels using an impact gun instead of a torque wrench? Ive seen too many cars have wheels over tightened that cause the rotors to warp after such little mileage, so check to see if your wheels are properly torqued.

 

no kidding? how does tightening the nuts too much cause the rotors to warp? I rarely tighten my own lug nuts, but I usually try to get them pretty tight and I don't use a torque wrench to do it.

 

http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/r...dia_wheels.asp

You basically are stretching that area if you are over tightening, and it affects the whole piece, not just the small area around the stud holes.

The most notable ive seen this is a case of my neighbor, though he has an oil tanker (mercury grand marquis.) He brought it to the local tire place 5 times in the last year because his brakes ended up wobbling, and each time they just went happy with the impact gun (along with 2 sets of rotors). The last visit, they turned the second set of rotors and we specifically asked that they torque each wheel with a torque wrench and not an impact gun. We have not had to go back and its been nearly 4-5 months, when that 5 visit span were about a month a part.

 

im having the same issue with my brakes.. i've had them resurfaced numerous times.. ive always torqued them to 95ftlbs so i know its not that never used impact gun.

 

i have always wondered, may the vsa have an impact on this?...whenever i break hard while traveling at speets over 40 i feel it, and even at low speeds i feel a shake while going over a moderate bump that travels up to the break pedel. just a hunch...

 

I usually drive with
VSA off. I talked to a tech at my local sports shop and he said that he had noticed issues with the bushings in the control arms(?) at the front of honda suspensions. He mentioned that when the bushings wear out that it can lead to a shudder under pressure. Any legitimacy to this claim?

 

most of the stock stuff on the tsx is junk, just like all other cars in the same price range..my moms rotors on her 2007 camry are warped at 47k milkes...if the car company put on quality aftermarket stuff like racingbrake rotors and stuff the price of the car would have to be about $5-7k higher which wouldnt be too good for sales lol

the best way to do the brake in procedure is follow marcus' instructions and do it on a road that usually doesnt have a lot of traffic near a highway and do it late at night like 12/1am and then hop on the highway and just cruise to let your brakes cool

 

wheel torque on our TSX is 79.6 lbs .. basicaly safe to say 80 lbs .. 95 is way too much. you're nearing truck tq ratings. Most new truck are 100.

 

Simply replacing the parts with aftermarket ones is not good enough. You need to get the right parts to have the right results.

Thanks for noticing. We formulated our HT-Spec brake kits to get the sort of results that different drivers are looking for!

It doesn't cause warping of the brakes. I can deform the wheel and hub and cause a shake, but it is repaired with a simple losening and re-torque of the wheels. Warping is a permanent condition which in brakes is caused by heat.

Honestly 90% of the time what you are experiencing with your brakes is NOT warping. It is pad material buildup.

Resurfacing only temporarily fixes the issue and in fact can make it happen worse the next time. The issue is with inadequate pads braking down under excess heat. Resurface 10 times, and as long as you use the same pads you'll have a shaking issue.

 

I had issues with rotor warp until I went with RacingBrake Rotors sold by Mr. Heeltoe. No issues since. I highly recommend them and Mr. (Marcus) Heeltoe; he will help you with the info you are looking for.

 

So, when I take my car in the the dealer to have my brakes looked at under warranty for this same problem, do I ask them to change the pads instead of turn the rotors? I have 80k and it's a CPO car I bought at 54k..presumably the pads were new at that time..I guess the oem pads are no good?

 

No, you won't get a permanent fix at the dealer. They are only going to put the same stuff in as they are taking off. You'll need to buy improved product on your own, unfortunately.

 

i got my brakes done at the dealership. warranty covered the tsb. i got new front brake pads and resurfaced rotors. i'm currently at ~40k miles. i'm in a lot of stop/go traffic so heat is a major issue for me. if the new pads last even half as long, i'd be happy - at that point i will be upgrading to aftermarket rotors/pads.

 

I just got back from the dealer who won't cover my pads or rotors, even after I had him pull up a TSB for brakes stating to change pads and resurface rotors. When I requested a goodwill fix (car is still under cpo warranty) he said he would file a claim with the District Service Manager...so if that fails, I am thinking Brembo blanks with some good ceramic pads.

 

Could someone please direct me to the brake TSB or what number it is?

thank you very much