Shimmy at all speeds, not the tires. What then?
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Shimmy at all speeds, not the tires. What then?
So my 07 with only 55,000 miles has a steering wheel shimmy at all speeds but only when the steering wheel is neutral. So for example, youre holding lightly to the left, to perhaps account for the crest in the road, and as you then move it to the right to correct your direction of travel slighly, AS you move the wheel across its center position, it shakes at all speeds. But thats it. As you then land in the new position, slightly to the right, its solid. Or...if youre making wide s-turns. Wheel to the left solid, bring it across to the right and it shakes as you cross over center. Then when its to the right, solid.
Ive had the tires, which were defective changed. New Conti DWSes on and they are nice. Road Forced to well below tolerance level on the machine. Dealer "inspected" front end and axles and says they are OK, but we all know those inspections can be the dude taking one quick look and saying "no problem."
Anyone ever experience this and if so, cause?
Ive had the tires, which were defective changed. New Conti DWSes on and they are nice. Road Forced to well below tolerance level on the machine. Dealer "inspected" front end and axles and says they are OK, but we all know those inspections can be the dude taking one quick look and saying "no problem."
Anyone ever experience this and if so, cause?
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I should state the following:
1. Shimmy occurs when steering wheel is in slow motion, such as when correcting course going down a road or around sweeping curves. Hold steering wheel firm and no shimmy.
2. Shimmy occurs at all speeds over 15. But harder to feel the faster you go.
3. Shimmy is not affected by acceleration, deceleration, or when the car is in neutral. Its always present.
1. Shimmy occurs when steering wheel is in slow motion, such as when correcting course going down a road or around sweeping curves. Hold steering wheel firm and no shimmy.
2. Shimmy occurs at all speeds over 15. But harder to feel the faster you go.
3. Shimmy is not affected by acceleration, deceleration, or when the car is in neutral. Its always present.
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sounds like axles. bad inner cv joint. i had a similar type of "shudder" or shimmy accelerating out of turns from a stop as the wheel straightened it was fine. it was typically at low speeds say 15-40 mph. then again i had a vibration at hwy speeds as well. wheels and tires were RFB.
i also had a click upon turning in cold weather which went away after driving around a bit. this was a bad outer cv joint.
i had both my axles replaced...so far all is well. i had about 42k mi on my TL when all this was going on. replaced at 50k with OEM axles.
it sounds like axles to me.
i also had a click upon turning in cold weather which went away after driving around a bit. this was a bad outer cv joint.
i had both my axles replaced...so far all is well. i had about 42k mi on my TL when all this was going on. replaced at 50k with OEM axles.
it sounds like axles to me.
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Yea...I'm gonna lean toward axles too. I had a shimmy of that sort that was cured by a new axle and intermediate shaft on the passenger side. That was in addition to the classic 55 mph shake.
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Well..its getting worse.
Now I have a shimmy at highway speeds AND a nasty shudder. And its all the time, not just when turning the wheel, as described above. And its not JUST when Im accelerating...its all the time.
These tires have been road force balanced twice. And the shop manager did it, and hes one of the most reputable tire shops around. This is the second set of tires on the car in six months.
I have to say Im getting really frustrated. The car has 55K. Bone stock. I havent slammed a curb or a pothole. Nothing. The car rode really nice....I get four new tires (twice) and new brakes all around...and now it rides like a total POS. Not cool.
Now I have a shimmy at highway speeds AND a nasty shudder. And its all the time, not just when turning the wheel, as described above. And its not JUST when Im accelerating...its all the time.
These tires have been road force balanced twice. And the shop manager did it, and hes one of the most reputable tire shops around. This is the second set of tires on the car in six months.
I have to say Im getting really frustrated. The car has 55K. Bone stock. I havent slammed a curb or a pothole. Nothing. The car rode really nice....I get four new tires (twice) and new brakes all around...and now it rides like a total POS. Not cool.
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have you checked the tire pressure? re-torqued the lugs?? i know sounds pretty obvious...but you never know.
my TL had axles that went bad at 42k (like i said before). i was on stock suspension. and mine started acting out before i switched to new tires and then after. have you taken a ride with the tech in the car to have them feel what you are feeling?
my TL had axles that went bad at 42k (like i said before). i was on stock suspension. and mine started acting out before i switched to new tires and then after. have you taken a ride with the tech in the car to have them feel what you are feeling?
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The reason why I dont think its things like lug nuts or pressure is becuase its getting progressively worse. Today I thought it was flatspotting becuase the car sat for a day. But I drove it a good hour, on several different trips and it never went away. Just got worse.
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Im going back to wheel balance on this one.....
My tire shop did a good RFB. But I notice the guy mounted the wheels on the balancer from the front of the wheel, not the back. That front flange on OEM wheels is NOT the one that the wheel is centered on the car's hub with. It merely there for mounting the center ornament with the acura calipers on it. I have a sneaky suspicion this is my issue....that the wheels are balanced, but the centerline he balanced against is this ornamental flange and not the one that counts...the one that fits against the hub. I went through some Hunter materials online and it appears this can happen:
http://www.gsp9700.com/technical/4442T/4442T.htm
Since today's vehicles are more sensitive to road feel, it is critical to be aware of how the wheel mounts on the vehicle. Acceptable ride quality depends on accurately mounting the wheel on the vehicle hub. Step torquing lug nuts in a star pattern should be followed on every installation.
If the wheel is not placed on the vehicle using the same centerline that was used on the balancer, the wheel balance, runout, and force variation will not be duplicated.
Im getting these re-done soon and will report back.
My tire shop did a good RFB. But I notice the guy mounted the wheels on the balancer from the front of the wheel, not the back. That front flange on OEM wheels is NOT the one that the wheel is centered on the car's hub with. It merely there for mounting the center ornament with the acura calipers on it. I have a sneaky suspicion this is my issue....that the wheels are balanced, but the centerline he balanced against is this ornamental flange and not the one that counts...the one that fits against the hub. I went through some Hunter materials online and it appears this can happen:
http://www.gsp9700.com/technical/4442T/4442T.htm
Since today's vehicles are more sensitive to road feel, it is critical to be aware of how the wheel mounts on the vehicle. Acceptable ride quality depends on accurately mounting the wheel on the vehicle hub. Step torquing lug nuts in a star pattern should be followed on every installation.
If the wheel is not placed on the vehicle using the same centerline that was used on the balancer, the wheel balance, runout, and force variation will not be duplicated.
Im getting these re-done soon and will report back.
Last edited by RkFast; 09-05-2012 at 01:07 PM.
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