rear swaybar problem/question

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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 10:10 AM
  #1  
slobeatz's Avatar
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Littering and.....
 
Joined: May 2004
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From: Albany, NY
rear swaybar problem/question

On Sunday I decided I would re-apply lithium grease to the bushings for my comptech swaybar. I proceeded to remove the bushings, add lithium grease and re-install. When I re-installed the last bolt I managed to over-tighten it and the head sheared off. I went and bought a bolt remover, but ended up shearing that off as well.

Needless to say, I ended up hammering out the bolt, which took the welded nut off as well. I replaced the nut and bolt with a grade 5 nut and bolt and a grade 8 lock washer. Do you guys think that a grade 5 bolt and nut will be able to stand up to the force of the sway bar?
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 05:57 PM
  #2  
buddylie's Avatar
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Check the heads of the other bolts - if theyre grade 5 bolts, they should have a 3-pointed star pattern. If its a grade 8 bolt, itll have a 6-pointed star pattern. If it had a grade 8 bolt, I would stick with that and replace out your grade 5 bolt
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #3  
CarbonDetails's Avatar
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Originally Posted by buddylie
Check the heads of the other bolts - if theyre grade 5 bolts, they should have a 3-pointed star pattern. If its a grade 8 bolt, itll have a 6-pointed star pattern. If it had a grade 8 bolt, I would stick with that and replace out your grade 5 bolt
x2. If you have a grade 5 change it out for a grade 8. I would not be get overly worried just change it out when you have free time.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #4  
slobeatz's Avatar
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Littering and.....
 
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From: Albany, NY
Sounds good. The only reason I went for the grade 5 was because home depot only had grade 8 in 1 inch lenghts, which I think would be too long. I'll have to check out lowe's instead. Thanks for the help!!
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:55 PM
  #5  
curls's Avatar
Someone stole "My Garage"
 
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
I wouldn't personally worry too much about it... I've driven without a rear sway bar for a few days (while sourcing a new left endlink to replace a seized one)... it just makes handling kinda under-steery, but that's it. If you snap the grade 5 bolt (do you auto-X?), then replace it with the grade 8 one. Otherwise leave it unless you're under there doing other work anyhow.
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