paint pens... how to use them
#1
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paint pens... how to use them
i recently got my acura paint pen in the mail. i used the color side to fill in the chipped area and started using the clearcoat side about 30 minutes after. the clearcoat side was working but it was also taking off the paint that was just applied. is there any methods like dotting or something to keep the clearcoat side from taking off the paint? thanks.
#2
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paint pens... how to use them
i recently got my acura paint pen in the mail. i used the color side to fill in the chipped area and started using the clearcoat side about 30 minutes after. the clearcoat side was working but it was also taking off the paint that was just applied. is there any methods like dotting or something to keep the clearcoat side from taking off the paint? thanks.
#3
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im not sure if this will help at all but imma try.
I paint model cars with real car paint. its the same system you are using, its called two stage paint, one is the paint then two is the clear. If you do it in this way its supposed to work pretty well. But first wash your car down and use dawn soap to clean the scuffed area (to remove all wax and oils from fingers and such) Then dry. Paint on the scuffed area and then let sit for 30 minutes, then apply the clear, because the paint and the clear got to bond, so don't let the paint dry over night or for an hour, maxium 30 minutes. Then put on the clear and then let dry for atlease 24 hrs.
Now here is the tricky part. Make sure you got these tools
2000 grit sand paper
3M swirl and scratch remover
Wax (your preference)
terry cloth
When the stuff is dry, turn on a hose and then let water run around the painted area, lightly meaning LIGHTLY, run the 2000 grit sand paper to the area, until you see a slight hazing between the painted area and the surrounding area. Then dry it off and then use the 3M swirl remover stuff, add enough on the terry cloth and then in a horizontal or vertical movement, rub at it for 1 minute, you should move at a rapid speed to create friction to it works better. Then your car should look like it was never scuffed.
I learned this stuff on a car website, I donno where it is anymore but someone on the TSX forum put it on, and I tested it on my buddys car which was scratched bad, and it worked great, but becareful with the sanding, too much can make it loose the gloss and no matter how much 3m stuff u use, the paint will look dulled out from the sanding.
But lastly, if it seems that if when you clear is taking off the paint, it could be that you are not having enough clear flow from the paint pen and in result the tip is scratching off the paint. I would get a dosposable cup or something, and then milk the pen with enough clear or paint, and you a fine brush to paint it on, then it would be safer and can be a bit finer.
Good luck!
Peter
I paint model cars with real car paint. its the same system you are using, its called two stage paint, one is the paint then two is the clear. If you do it in this way its supposed to work pretty well. But first wash your car down and use dawn soap to clean the scuffed area (to remove all wax and oils from fingers and such) Then dry. Paint on the scuffed area and then let sit for 30 minutes, then apply the clear, because the paint and the clear got to bond, so don't let the paint dry over night or for an hour, maxium 30 minutes. Then put on the clear and then let dry for atlease 24 hrs.
Now here is the tricky part. Make sure you got these tools
2000 grit sand paper
3M swirl and scratch remover
Wax (your preference)
terry cloth
When the stuff is dry, turn on a hose and then let water run around the painted area, lightly meaning LIGHTLY, run the 2000 grit sand paper to the area, until you see a slight hazing between the painted area and the surrounding area. Then dry it off and then use the 3M swirl remover stuff, add enough on the terry cloth and then in a horizontal or vertical movement, rub at it for 1 minute, you should move at a rapid speed to create friction to it works better. Then your car should look like it was never scuffed.
I learned this stuff on a car website, I donno where it is anymore but someone on the TSX forum put it on, and I tested it on my buddys car which was scratched bad, and it worked great, but becareful with the sanding, too much can make it loose the gloss and no matter how much 3m stuff u use, the paint will look dulled out from the sanding.
But lastly, if it seems that if when you clear is taking off the paint, it could be that you are not having enough clear flow from the paint pen and in result the tip is scratching off the paint. I would get a dosposable cup or something, and then milk the pen with enough clear or paint, and you a fine brush to paint it on, then it would be safer and can be a bit finer.
Good luck!
Peter
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You've gotta leave the first coat of paint on for much longer (wait till it dries completely) before you try putting the clear coat on. I would even suggest waiting an entire day (24 hours) before you put the clear coat on. Even still, the clear coat may remove the underpaint.. I never understood the paint pen, its much easier to use than a normal bottle of touch up paint, ill give it that, but i dont think the results are 'good' by any means.
J.
J.
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I bought the paint pen and two different pro autobody guys I talked to gave me the same advice on how to use it - throw it out and buy the regular touchup paint. Make an applicator from a paper match by cutting a point on it with a razor. If you already have the pen, you can bleed a little paint out and onto a clean surface and then use the match to apply. I tried that and it worked well. The pen tends to blob up too much, you can get a much more precise application with the match trick. Go slow and use a few very thin layers of colour and clear rather than one thick layer of each.
I was told that the TSX paint is actually a tri-stage paint job (on the Indigo Blue Pearl anyway). A base coat of blue, a layer of purple/metallic and a top clear coat (that actually has a bit of tint to it as well). So it's pretty hard to get an exact match with touchup paint, but you can get pretty close if you take your time and work carefully.
I was told that the TSX paint is actually a tri-stage paint job (on the Indigo Blue Pearl anyway). A base coat of blue, a layer of purple/metallic and a top clear coat (that actually has a bit of tint to it as well). So it's pretty hard to get an exact match with touchup paint, but you can get pretty close if you take your time and work carefully.
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I recently noticed a chip (a deep one at that) right on the lip of my hood. I can see the metal and it looks like it's starting to rust!
Now I have the life time rust proofing warrenty, but would it cover that? Would the same rules apply in terms of doing it myself? It's a deep chip. should I take it to a professional? What to do?
Now I have the life time rust proofing warrenty, but would it cover that? Would the same rules apply in terms of doing it myself? It's a deep chip. should I take it to a professional? What to do?
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#8
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PinkyTSX, I think it depends on whether you want to just fix the chip so it won't rust or you want to make it invisible. Making it dissappear probably requires the services of a pro, unless you're really good at doing it yourself (in which case you wouldn't be asking...). But with careful work you should be able to fix it up so that it isn't too noticeable and rust won't spread.
My advice would be to just touch it up. No sense driving yourself crazy over rock chips, you're almost assured to get more anyway. If the damage gets really bad over time then repaint, but in the meantime - stuff happens. Fix it the best you can and enjoy driving.
My advice would be to just touch it up. No sense driving yourself crazy over rock chips, you're almost assured to get more anyway. If the damage gets really bad over time then repaint, but in the meantime - stuff happens. Fix it the best you can and enjoy driving.
#9
Check out this article from Autopia on repairing chips and scratches: www.autopia.ws/articles.php?articleId=27. (Autopia access may require registration, I forget.)
This is a professional technique clearly explained for the layperson. As mentioned in a previous post in this thread, it requires sanding out the chip before painting, and leveling the repaired spot after painting with very fine wet paper (like 1500 or 2000 grit, available at auto supply stores). Sanding unblemished paint around the repaired chip is scary, but after a polish with a fine swirl remover everything looks great again. It takes a little effort getting the tools together the first time (do it yourself sanding pencils), but after that it's fast and straightforward.
FWIW, I practiced this first on my old car so I wouldn't practice on my new TSX!
This is a professional technique clearly explained for the layperson. As mentioned in a previous post in this thread, it requires sanding out the chip before painting, and leveling the repaired spot after painting with very fine wet paper (like 1500 or 2000 grit, available at auto supply stores). Sanding unblemished paint around the repaired chip is scary, but after a polish with a fine swirl remover everything looks great again. It takes a little effort getting the tools together the first time (do it yourself sanding pencils), but after that it's fast and straightforward.
FWIW, I practiced this first on my old car so I wouldn't practice on my new TSX!
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