Help! Electrical problem (My Fault)

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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 06:30 AM
  #1  
LoveMyTL-S's Avatar
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From: St. Cloud, FL
Unhappy Help! Electrical problem (My Fault)

A little background info first:

I had bought the "Up Window" module in the first group buy. Was excited to get it. Installed it and it didn't work. I went out and bought a multimeter to check the voltages. Yesterday it wasn't so hot outside so decided to trouble shoot my original install. I checked the first wire and nothing. I'm no electrical guy and decided at this point to stop. So I put everything back together.

Later I was going to go grocery shopping, turned the key and went to use my wipers, because it had rained. Nothing! Oh shit! What did I do?? I must of shorted something. I tested some other things and have noticed that now my windows, review mirror, rear window defroster, moon roof and instrument panel don't work. My first thought was to check the fuses. I did and they all look fine, under the hood and inside the cabin. This bites!! Is there some relay module that perhaps I shorted out?

I'm thinking of taking it into the dealership today. Any advise? Other than never ever ever do any electrical work on my car............
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 06:51 AM
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cybereclipse's Avatar
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From: The 818z
what is this "UP WINDOWS" mod and is it connected to any other modules relays or linuar actuators???
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 07:00 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by cybereclipse
what is this "UP WINDOWS" mod and is it connected to any other modules relays or linuar actuators???
The "UP Winow" module has five wires that are connected into the drivers door wiring harness. One wire actually goes to the window buttons console and the other 4 directly into the harness behind the door speaker.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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Check one of the interior fuses, I think a 7.5 on the second row down, towards the engine. When installing the green wire, you probably shorted it. Happened to me.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 08:09 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by moda_way
Check one of the interior fuses, I think a 7.5 on the second row down, towards the engine. When installing the green wire, you probably shorted it. Happened to me.
I did check that fuse. It was good. That one fuse would control all those areas? I'm thinking it doesn't.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 08:36 AM
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Even though the fuse looks fine, try the following:

1. Look at "map" of fuses, and locate the fuse that controls the above things that you say aren't working anymore.
2. Pull fuse, inspect, and swap with a known-good one (or a replacement if you have one handy).
3. Test to see if the things work again. If they do, the fuse you pulled was bad even though it looked like it was fine. If they don't then did you hear another 'pop' sound when testing? If so, you still have a short. If not, then you might need to look at getting a professional to diagnose the short.

Be aware though... labour rates for electrical diagnosis are often 20-40% higher than regular shop rates (at my dealership I believe I saw it posted as $84 regular, $112 electrical)
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:05 AM
  #7  
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From: St. Cloud, FL
Originally Posted by curls
Even though the fuse looks fine, try the following:

1. Look at "map" of fuses, and locate the fuse that controls the above things that you say aren't working anymore.
2. Pull fuse, inspect, and swap with a known-good one (or a replacement if you have one handy).
3. Test to see if the things work again. If they do, the fuse you pulled was bad even though it looked like it was fine. If they don't then did you hear another 'pop' sound when testing? If so, you still have a short. If not, then you might need to look at getting a professional to diagnose the short.

Be aware though... labour rates for electrical diagnosis are often 20-40% higher than regular shop rates (at my dealership I believe I saw it posted as $84 regular, $112 electrical)
Okay, I'll try that. Thanks for the tip. Ouch on the labor cost. I have an appointment with the dealership tomorrow morning. Hopefully it's only the fuses and I can correct the problem myself.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:15 AM
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More than likely fuse #21 in the underdash fuse box is blown. As mentioned, remove the fuse and test it for continuity with your meter. All of your described inop functions are on the circuit protected by this fuse.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by poltergeist
More than likely fuse #21 in the underdash fuse box is blown. As mentioned, remove the fuse and test it for continuity with your meter. All of your described inop functions are on the circuit protected by this fuse.

THAT'S THE ONE!!!!

Definitely replace anyway.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 10:43 AM
  #10  
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From: St. Cloud, FL
Originally Posted by poltergeist
More than likely fuse #21 in the underdash fuse box is blown. As mentioned, remove the fuse and test it for continuity with your meter. All of your described inop functions are on the circuit protected by this fuse.
Awesome, just to be safe I'll replace that fuse. Thanks for your expertise! I'll post on here how it goes.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 12:20 PM
  #11  
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From: St. Cloud, FL
Well, I drove over to Autozone during lunch and bought a whole set of fuses. Good to have. Checked fuse #21 and guess what! It was blown!! Dayum you guys are good. Replaced the 7.5A fuse and everything came back on! What a relief!!

Now to call the dealership and cancel my appointment.

Thanks again guys, they forum is invaluable
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