I will be trying this soon. Thanks for the advice, and I def. didn't want my wife pumping brake pedals...the Pep Boys vac kit sounds crucial.

Just bought an '04 with 74k miles...baby downgrade- from my 350z...but my wife has an '09 and we love it. I appreciate that the only option is "Nav" or "No Nav". I don't appreciate taking a 14k car and adding AC, Auto, etc. and it comes to 30k anyhow.

The air filter was waay dirty, the cabin filter was probably never changed! Oil is ok, but I think I will be seafoaming it and changing to Mobil 1 syn for safe measure. I'll be finding a DIY on the AT tranny fluid, and replacing front brake pads. Then slapping on 20's hopefully, with all the damn savings. As if I didn't have enough to do...

 

sorry for asking but, - before bleeding, make sure master cylinder is at max and begin to bleed 1 at a time. do you have to refill the master or does it not drain as much where you don't have to refill until you're done bleeding?

 

What I've been doing is one caliper at a time....bleed until fresh brake fluid color comes out; which means having to go back to fill the fluid reservoir as often as I bleed.

I find it quick and easy to have another person help with this DIY.

 

Is it necessary to use the honda brake fluid? I always thought that any old brand of brake fluid is fine. For other fluids like coolant, tranny and power steering its necessary to use honda. But not brake fluid.

I hope so because i just bought 3 pints of fluid from autozone called gumount dot 3. It doesn't say heavy duty though. That ok?

 

Ok i just tried to my my drivers front and had problems. First i tried using the 30 dollar vacuum pump. I turned the bleed valve and nothing but air bubbles comes out. Then i got my roommate to do the traditional pump the brake method but the pedal just gets super stiff like its supposed to. But i open the bleed valve and the pedal stays super stiff. Then i even tried having her pump and use the vacuum and still it stays stiff. I feel like an idiot cause this is easy to do but i can't figure out whats going on here. Oh and that vacuum sucks for this job.

 

Did you uncover the brake fluid fill cylinder?

 

Yes i did. Such little fluid would come out that like a quarter inch of fluid took minutes, and it came out like bubble bath.

 

You got sludge in them brake lines? Or is there a kink in the lines? Try the front passengers bleed valve.

 

The little fluid that came out did not look to have any sludge in it. Only thing i can think of is maybe my roommate just did not press the pedal hard enough to really push fluid out. Doubtful though.

 

Well i completed the brake flush in spite of the lousy vacuum pump. Basically the problem was the classic pressure loss around the bleeder valve threads. They recommend to use plumber's tape to make the whole system air tight. I had none so i just put up with the slow-air-bubble suction.

So the cup filled up with dirty fluid that was really just very dark more than dirty. I had to let the cup sit for a few minutes while the air bubbles went away to really see the condition of the fluid. After about 3 full cups the fluid was clear or yellowish, clean fluid.

It just took long time and lots of hand pumping that stupid vacuum. And at the end of usage the damn thing broke and i can't find the missing part. The real benefit to that pump is to empty fluid from all the resevoirs.

The brake pedal feels a little stiffer, definitely enough to notice a difference. At first i was hoping its not placebo effect. But i don't think it is.

So what's next?! Coolant flush is on my list. I'm also curious about that seafoam cleaning, gotta read up on it.

 

How long does the brake fluid last? I had my brake fluid changed out by an auto shop and after 6 months the dealership reported that the fluid is dirty again when I took my car in for the recall. Is that normal or should I have it done right at the dealership?

 

I had my done at the Acura dealership during my last service appt. I believe the rule of thumb is every 3 years regardless of mileage. Someone can jump in and correct me if I'm wrong on that.

 

Bleeding the brakes is straight forward. But how do you get all the fluid changed including the anti-lock computerized space shuttle device which also handles the brake fluid.
I believe some of the better scanners will allow for the ABS to cycle or pump but how does one do this without a scanner ?

Thanks, Kap

 

According to the maintenance journal it states every 3 years regardless of mileage. I had it done on my 06 tsx at a little over 3 years with 100K+ miles. The acura dealer pressure bled the abs and regular brakes then put in new fluid. I also had the manual transmisssion fluid changed.

 

folks I am planning on putting new rotors, pads and maybe also bleed the brake fluid this weekend. I have 2 questions:

-I bought a mityvac vacuum pump for the bleed process (coming in the mail) and I am a bit confused about the process. Some readings I made talk about creating a vacuum with the pump then loosening the nipple a bit to let old fluid and air bubble out. Others talk about having brake fluid in the vacuum pump! Which is Which.

-My rotors and pads are dead but my brake doesn't feel mushy, do I really need to bleed the brakes? I have a 2005 and the brakes were serviced at the dealer only once some 60k miles ago, the car has 90k now.

thanks for the input folks.

 

I have the hand pump version of the Mityvac. Attach the clear hose to the pump at one end; and brake caliper bleed valve with the other end. Create a vacuum with the pump, then release the bleed valve. As you do this secure the hose at the valve with one hand because as the brake fluid comes out, it can loosen up the attachment. You'll notice the brake fluid come out quick at first, then start slowing down. Close the bleed valve when the fluid starts slowing down; then pump again. Repeat the process until the brake fluid becomes clear or a light tea color. Don't forget to pour fresh brake fluid into the brake reservoir!
I didn't put brake fluid in the hand pump container.

Brake fluid bleed and replacement for normal driving conditions is about every 30,000miles or 3yrs.

 

I'm not sure of the specifics of that pump, but the logic behind putting some clean fluid in the pump bottle/reservoir is that if the brake system has suction (pulling out of the brake hand/auto pump), it'll be pulling fluid out and not air. You don't want air in the lines, obviously.

For me, the only time I'd put any fluid in the pump container to begin with is if the pump had a tube that led to the bottom of the reservoir -- I'd put in fluid to just above the level of the opening of the tube. But if the pump container just "drops" the fluid into the container, adding fluid to that container is useless.

Make sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay NEARLY FULL. Don't run it down below where you can't see the level in the translucent reservoir!

 

yep, thanks folks. that makes sense. Now to my next question as I want to be 100% ready for this:

what kinda grease did you guys use on your shims and pads. The manual mentions Molykote M-77 which is apparently a copper based lube. Some in this forum suggested a lithium based lube which from my readings is good if it is in contact with rubber parts (our brakes have no rubber). Others suggested a silver or aluminum anti-seize.
The consensus is that we need a lube/anti seize that can sustain high heat. Any idea ?

 

I used Permatex Ultra disc brake caliper lube.

 

+1.

 

if I am right the "permatex ultra disc brake caliper lube" is a silicone based lube...so its advertised max operating temp is 550F (which is usually higher than what it is in reality). Some dude at another forum said he tested a similar silicone based lube (sil glyde) in an oven and it started being runny then bubbling at less than 250F ! But I guess I am just being anal here about a little thing.

 

ok to finish the lube/brakes/pads saga for now. I went to napa and the guy I talked to said that they didn't have any copper based lube (the Acura recommended brake lube M-77 is copper based ) but had an aluminum based (1600 degrees F resistance) which I decided against for lack of info, and a silicone based (600 degrees F ) called sil glyde that I got. Then I was driving next to the stealership so I stopped by and they had the molykote M-77 copper based. So I got it: a little tube for 18$. On my way back i went again to NAPA to return the sil-glyde and an older dude said that they actually had a copper based brand for $10 AND a new ceramic based one for $15 or so that has some 2200 degrees F resistance.
Anyway, so I kept the stealership product since i wasn't planning on driving back for a return, but the napa ceramic based lube looked good.

 

Thanks need to do this too will try it on the weekend.

 

I have a 2005 Acura tsx and want to bleed the brakes, how much brake fluid is required to fully flush the system ?

 

I always thought you bleed the wheel furthest away from the master first and then work your way in..Could have changed good luck....

 

2 bottles (Honda/Acura Brake Fluid) was plenty for my last job.