Control arm bushing worn out
#1
Control arm bushing worn out
Hey all, i have a M/T 2004 tsx with 84k miles that has to have the front lower control arm bushings replaced as well as the front sway bar bushings/links. My mechanic quoted me $920 including labor because he has to replace the entire control arms and not just the bushings itself. The price seems very high to me... what do you all think? Is this something i can do myself? I am pretty mechanically inclined but i've only ever replaced wear and tear items like brakes, fluid changes, etc.
#2
Cman,
That price quote honestly sounds about in line for a dealership's rate. Replacing the front lower control arms is not a simple job and can take anywhere from 3-6 hours so naturally the dealership will capitalize on the job's complexity.
Take a look at this general procedural outline to judge whether or not you possess the mechanical aptitude necessary to tackle the job:
To install:
*diagram courtesy of acurapartswarehouse.com; all rights reserved
That price quote honestly sounds about in line for a dealership's rate. Replacing the front lower control arms is not a simple job and can take anywhere from 3-6 hours so naturally the dealership will capitalize on the job's complexity.
Take a look at this general procedural outline to judge whether or not you possess the mechanical aptitude necessary to tackle the job:
- Raise and safely support the vehicle.
- Remove or disconnect the following:
- Front wheels
- Damper fork from the damper and lower control arm
- Flange nut, while holding the joint pin with a hex wrench
- Stabilizer link from the lower control arm
- Cotter pin and nut from the lower ball joint
- Lower control arm from the knuckle using a suitable separator tool
- Flange bolts and lower control arm
To install:
- Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following steps and torque specifications:
- Lower control arm flange bolts: 14x1.5mm bolt to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm) and 12x1.25mm bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm)
- Lower ball joint castle nut: 58–65 ft. lbs. (78–88 Nm)
- Stabilizer link-to-control arm flange nut: 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm)
- Insert the damper fork into the damper lower end so the aligning tab is aligned with the slot in the damper fork. Use a new damper fork mounting nut
- Lower damper fork mounting bolt: 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm)
- Upper damper fork mounting bolt: 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm)
- Check and adjust the front wheel alignment
*diagram courtesy of acurapartswarehouse.com; all rights reserved
#3
Hmm thank you Techtalk, that actually looks doable. I was looking at aftermarket replacement parts on rockauto.com. From what i've read, Moog, and Beck Arnley are good quality parts. Everything i need only comes out to like $200. I'd just need to buy or rent a ball joint remover tool. If i can do this myself i'd save $700.... although i might just drive a lot less and wait until winter passes since this project would require a lot of research time. And by the time i get the parts / knowledge i need... i think it'd be too cold. Not to mention lots of reserved time for those "wtf!!" moments that eat up time.
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crx_91si (03-20-2012)
#4
Cman,
That price quote honestly sounds about in line for a dealership's rate. Replacing the front lower control arms is not a simple job and can take anywhere from 3-6 hours so naturally the dealership will capitalize on the job's complexity.
Take a look at this general procedural outline to judge whether or not you possess the mechanical aptitude necessary to tackle the job:
To install:
*diagram courtesy of acurapartswarehouse.com; all rights reserved
That price quote honestly sounds about in line for a dealership's rate. Replacing the front lower control arms is not a simple job and can take anywhere from 3-6 hours so naturally the dealership will capitalize on the job's complexity.
Take a look at this general procedural outline to judge whether or not you possess the mechanical aptitude necessary to tackle the job:
- Raise and safely support the vehicle.
- Remove or disconnect the following:
- Front wheels
- Damper fork from the damper and lower control arm
- Flange nut, while holding the joint pin with a hex wrench
- Stabilizer link from the lower control arm
- Cotter pin and nut from the lower ball joint
- Lower control arm from the knuckle using a suitable separator tool
- Flange bolts and lower control arm
To install:
- Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following steps and torque specifications:
- Lower control arm flange bolts: 14x1.5mm bolt to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm) and 12x1.25mm bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm)
- Lower ball joint castle nut: 58–65 ft. lbs. (78–88 Nm)
- Stabilizer link-to-control arm flange nut: 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm)
- Insert the damper fork into the damper lower end so the aligning tab is aligned with the slot in the damper fork. Use a new damper fork mounting nut
- Lower damper fork mounting bolt: 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm)
- Upper damper fork mounting bolt: 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm)
- Check and adjust the front wheel alignment
*diagram courtesy of acurapartswarehouse.com; all rights reserved
#5
Team Owner
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Age: 36
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I just had the bushings replaced too, but didnt have to replace the control arms. Cost me 400 to do everything. Guy was nice enough to relubricate the rear sway bar bushings/replace my burnt out tail lights and throw in a free alignment.
#6
Someone stole "My Garage"
Most balljoints can be popped out with a mini-sledge (2-4lb). Loosen but don't remove the castle nut entirely. Jack up/load the suspension with a sturdy floor jack (not the spare tire jack in your trunk!). Then once the suspension is loaded, whack the area that is holding the balljoint (don't hit the balljoint or its associated arm or castle nut! Hit the other piece that is surrounding the joint!). It can take a few, or many, hits with the mini-sledge, but it should pop out and it won't damage the joint in the process!
I replaced the rear upper control arms with an adjustable camber kit this weekend. My car has seen 8 years of snow and salted roads and I was fearing the worst, but on both L and R sides, the above method removed the balljoint with fewer than 7 hits!
I replaced the rear upper control arms with an adjustable camber kit this weekend. My car has seen 8 years of snow and salted roads and I was fearing the worst, but on both L and R sides, the above method removed the balljoint with fewer than 7 hits!
#7
im stilll confused to why you need a whole ned control arm and not just the bushings? unless there cracked..unlikley so if you think your skilled enough then replace the bushings yourself and save about 800 dollars. i think there trynna make you pay for a new arm with bushings to make money so they just dont have to replace the bushings.
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#8
it's a car-drive it
had the annual NC state inspection done yesterday-it passed
included with the invoice was honda multi-point inspection sheet
they did not say anything about it but on it-under comments was
compliance bushings starting to tear/crack with a may require future attention
need some opinions on this
when I last had it serviced at another acura dealer less than 3,000 miles they said they were in excellent condition.
included with the invoice was honda multi-point inspection sheet
they did not say anything about it but on it-under comments was
compliance bushings starting to tear/crack with a may require future attention
need some opinions on this
when I last had it serviced at another acura dealer less than 3,000 miles they said they were in excellent condition.
#9
We had a 2002 Honda Civic that needed the lower control arm bushing replaced awhile back. Not too long after the repair of the entire lower control arm, we upgraded to a 2007 TSX. Our mechanic informed us the lower control arm bushing of the TSX was the same as the Civic and it needed to be replaced also. It does appear that the recommended Honda/Acura repair is to replace the entire lower control arm. He said it was a faulty design. It does handle quite a bit better now.
Henry
Henry
#10
You all have me wanting to check my bushings now. I have changed similar parts on our 97 accord so it's nothing new really. I found that looking around on youtube helps too. I've learned a few tricks.
#11
You mechanic said that you'd need the entire control arm replaced is because Acura does not sell the bushing on its own, only as part of the whole control arm. You can get aftermarket bushings though.
To those who have replaced the bushings - what prompted you to do this? Ie how was the car behaving that you decided to go with this repair?
To those who have replaced the bushings - what prompted you to do this? Ie how was the car behaving that you decided to go with this repair?
#12
If you look at the parts blowup above, acura does sell the bushings (8, 9, and 10 in the pic). It is probably quicker for them just to change out the lower control arm to fix the problem.
#13
it's a car-drive it
You mechanic said that you'd need the entire control arm replaced is because Acura does not sell the bushing on its own, only as part of the whole control arm. You can get aftermarket bushings though.
To those who have replaced the bushings - what prompted you to do this? Ie how was the car behaving that you decided to go with this repair?
To those who have replaced the bushings - what prompted you to do this? Ie how was the car behaving that you decided to go with this repair?
Last edited by nj2pa2nc; 01-03-2012 at 03:17 PM.
#14
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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I've had the front compliance bushings AND the front stabilizer (sway) bar end links on my '04 TSX replaced -- at the dealership, at a total cost of right around $1,000 (yikes!).
-- The bushings were replaced this past August; the car had just over 108,000 miles on it. The tab was about $725, about $100 of which was for a full alignment. I'm 99% sure only the bushings were replaced, not the control arms. (There was some doubt beforehand about whether an alignment would be necessary, but once the links had been replaced the determination was made: alignment needed. Whether it really was needed, who knows? The paperwork for the job includes a printout of the before/after measurements, and the numbers are pretty much identical. I'll admit that I'm not knowledgeable enough to know the significance of very small changes.)
-- The end links were replaced in September of 2010, when the car had a little less than 95,000 miles on it. The charge was about $275.
FYI: I'm the car's original owner. Delivery date: 10/22/03. Current mileage: about 112,750. Despite having to shell out money for repairs like these, my level of satisfaction with the car remains high. That satisfaction is also despite the HVAC/radio display going dark for the second time just this past week. The first time it happened the car was just over 3 years old and still under warranty, so the fix (replacement of a circuit board, after considerable center-stack disassembly) didn't cost me anything. The problem turned out to be so common that Acura extended the warranty for dealing with it -- to 7 years or 110,000 miles. Actually, the mileage limit might be 100,000; I'm not positive. Regardless, my car no longer qualifies for an under-warranty repair, so I've got to hope the dealership's service manager can get me some goodwill assistance.
-- The bushings were replaced this past August; the car had just over 108,000 miles on it. The tab was about $725, about $100 of which was for a full alignment. I'm 99% sure only the bushings were replaced, not the control arms. (There was some doubt beforehand about whether an alignment would be necessary, but once the links had been replaced the determination was made: alignment needed. Whether it really was needed, who knows? The paperwork for the job includes a printout of the before/after measurements, and the numbers are pretty much identical. I'll admit that I'm not knowledgeable enough to know the significance of very small changes.)
-- The end links were replaced in September of 2010, when the car had a little less than 95,000 miles on it. The charge was about $275.
FYI: I'm the car's original owner. Delivery date: 10/22/03. Current mileage: about 112,750. Despite having to shell out money for repairs like these, my level of satisfaction with the car remains high. That satisfaction is also despite the HVAC/radio display going dark for the second time just this past week. The first time it happened the car was just over 3 years old and still under warranty, so the fix (replacement of a circuit board, after considerable center-stack disassembly) didn't cost me anything. The problem turned out to be so common that Acura extended the warranty for dealing with it -- to 7 years or 110,000 miles. Actually, the mileage limit might be 100,000; I'm not positive. Regardless, my car no longer qualifies for an under-warranty repair, so I've got to hope the dealership's service manager can get me some goodwill assistance.
#16
Pro
I'm not sure how difficult it is to remove the bushings, I have seen in the past that people had to actually burn them off using a acedaine torch so maybe it is easier to just get a lower control arm. I was reviewing the prices on the lower control arms and both sets at one online store are almost $300. Even if you factor in labor this should not run over $600 total so to the OP, yeah the mechanic is quoting you too much (or at least I think he is).
If you have the skills you should be able to do this in your driveway. Just be sure to get a good balljoint separator.
What prompted you to have this looked at? Is the alignment off in the car?
If you have the skills you should be able to do this in your driveway. Just be sure to get a good balljoint separator.
What prompted you to have this looked at? Is the alignment off in the car?
#17
I have a 2006 TSX with about 73k miles and the dealer just told me I need the control arm bushings replaced as well. I'm wondering if it's a little early for that. What do you guys think? Also, what can happen if I keep driving on it?
#18
Intermediate
You really want to replace the control arm bushings. You can buy the bushings separately from Acura. You will just need to take the control arms off and then take them to shop with a press, so the old bushings can be pressed out and the new ones installed. Then remount the control arm, put everything back together and your DONE. When I had mine replaced at the dealer at 115k while under warranty, even they even sent the control arms out to have the new bushings installed. You will be amazed at how much tighter the steering and suspension feels.
#19
Cruisin'
Went in for an A1 service on my wife's 08 TSX w/ 69k and ask the service manager to look at the compliance bushings based on what I had read on this forum. He said they were dry-rotted, but not pushing out and it could wait. I asked if my Acura extended warranty covered it. After checking with Honda/Acura he said yes. I went ahead and paid the $100 for alignment based on his recommendations.
#20
Went in for an A1 service on my wife's 08 TSX w/ 69k and ask the service manager to look at the compliance bushings based on what I had read on this forum. He said they were dry-rotted, but not pushing out and it could wait. I asked if my Acura extended warranty covered it. After checking with Honda/Acura he said yes. I went ahead and paid the $100 for alignment based on his recommendations.
#21
it's a car-drive it
The acura dealer I went to in NC told me the bushings were starting to crack and needed to be replaced. That was 2 years ago. When I took it to a acura dealer in Pa and a Honda dealer in NJ for service they both told me replacement was not needed.
#22
Drifting
anyone know the width of that front side lower control arm bushing? Like one of these? 2.555" or 2.830"
#23
Drifting
i found another kit that has these sized.. I bet one of these will work for that bushing.. 2.88", 2.50", 2.78", 2.82", 2.90"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FWD-Front-Wheel-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Adapter-Puller-Pulley-Tool-Kit-US-Shipping/151534096962?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37428%26meid%3Dcec312b94d424082992bacf78ff3eb00%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D262450161592#rwid
the other one above was this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pc-BEARING-RACE-SEAL-DRIVER-Master-Tool-Set-1-565-to-3-180-Wheel-Axle-Set/171657264928?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37428%26meid%3D042ec97fae634c4488560cc23d27ef88%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D371652682874
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FWD-Front-Wheel-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Adapter-Puller-Pulley-Tool-Kit-US-Shipping/151534096962?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37428%26meid%3Dcec312b94d424082992bacf78ff3eb00%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D262450161592#rwid
the other one above was this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pc-BEARING-RACE-SEAL-DRIVER-Master-Tool-Set-1-565-to-3-180-Wheel-Axle-Set/171657264928?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37428%26meid%3D042ec97fae634c4488560cc23d27ef88%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D371652682874
#24
Drifting
ahh crud.. this is 1st gen!! my bad..
#25
Replace control arm
If u r semi mechanical and watch Anybody could replace very symbol an Acura CL would take less than an hour a side and thats installing diralast axles too pb blast all the bolts u need to take off hour or sonbefore and while your in there to Ball joints he’ll check your axles and your upper control arm and if your struts are old replace them to cuz only 4 more bolts to remove them then u have whole new front end while job for ffirst time 2-3 hours they sell kits and rock auto has lots off certain websites sell name brand oarts at carzybwhole sale parts I got set of 4 Gabriel ultra struts for 6$ a piece brand new moog Upper control arm with ball joint for $23 a piece move lower control arm ball joint for $26 and bought a bottom Control arm with lower ball joint when tie rod kit with front wheel bearings for $60 at rock-bottom from a reputable brand brand new front end better than OEM for under $100 just got to do your research Couldn’t imagine spending $900 on that fuck regular Mechanic will do that for you for $100 I don’t bother with the bushings waste of time I live in New England everything gets rusty I like my shit to look new and then coat them in rust Resistant spray just my two cents I’m sure many agree on this form I still can’t believe the steel I got on the struts do your research
#26
Better yet
If you don’t have tools and you’re not that mechanically inclined do not attempt this he will cause more damage than harm and then I have to pay somebody extra to try to put together the mess that you made with all the parts laying around you might strip bolts that are rusty round off bolts but the procedure is simple it’s pretty much three bolts if you think it’s over your head call good friend grab a 12 pack and ask him what he wants or than a day I paid $150 to get two axles installed and I felt like that was overpriced from a garage mechanic I only bring my cars to garages or dealerships if I need repair brake lines Rusty brake lines timing belts and valve adjustment then again replacing my spark plugs on my Lexus ES 338 was one of the hardest jobs I ever had to do and I would pay next time for someone to do that that’s why I’m Honda Acura for life even though I have a J series time in belt soon to come along with valve adjustments I have good friends anyways you probably fix your problem because this is a three-year old thread I can’t wait to get the Milwaukee right angle wrench an impact gun and I’ll be working on everything tired of busted knuckles CL Dash S 6sp Going to be one of the nicest ones out there
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