For starters, I'm not a very car savvy person in the sense of mechanics so I'm going to describe what's been going on to the best of my ability.

A week ago I was pulling out of a parking lot and out of nowhere I couldn't accelerate. The car would not go faster than 15 mph. So I called up the roadside assistance and they brought my car to the dealer where I bought it. They told me it was the clutch and that it wouldn't be covered by the warranty because it was a "wearable" part. So they ended up replacing the clutch for the nice sum of $1600.

This seemed weird to begin with though because everyone I described the problem to seemed to think it was the drivetrain. Especially since I had no signs the clutch was gonna go...it just happened very very suddenly. And on top of that everyone had trouble believing I had burned out the clutch because I don't put any stress on the car in that respect. However, I bought the car with 75,000 miles on it so it's not too unlikely the person before me could have done something. None-the-less I got the car back yesterday...a week after the initial incident.

So everthing seemed normal at first...clutch felt a little different of course, but the problem seemed to be fixed because the car was actually moving now. That was before I started running into two new issues.

1. I'm having trouble accelerating at higher speeds. I was driving around getting used to the clutch and noticed something didn't seem quite right. So I started experimenting a little. At one point I had the car going 60 mph in 4th gear and I pressed the pedal to the floor and the tachometer was merely creeping at the speed of a snail towards 4000 rpms. Shouldn't the tachometer be flying past 4000 when you do this?

2. In second and third gears the car will subtly jerk after the clutch has been released and while accelerating. This is not the 1st gear jerking problem (all though I experience that too) that has been discussed before on these boards. But rather, the car is jerking lightly after completely releasing the clutch.

The problem is both these things happen inconsistently...so if I take it in I'm sure they'll drive it around the block and give me the keys back. I was thinking I should ask the guy to come sit in the car with me so I can show him.

Biggest problem is I'm almost at the mileage where the warranty runs out. So I need to figure something out fairly quickly.

Let me know what you think!

And it's a 2004 incase you're wondering.

Thanks!!

 

please tell me that you properly broke in the clutch in the first 500 miles of city driving after getting the car back.

that means, no heavy exceleration, no dumping the clutch, alot of easy use.

if you didn't, you may have not properly broke in the clutch and could be looking at a new clutch.

otherwise, what you're describing could be that they didn't properly install the new clutch. if the cable for the clutch is too loose or too tight, that can prevent the clutch from properly engaging.

Did they resurface the flywheel? that could also explain what you're experiencing. so you have an uneven surface that you're trying to break in a new clutch on, it won't be right.

it would be similar if you had warped rotors w/bad pads and replaced only the brake pads. you would still experience braking problems because of the uneven surface of the rotor.

 

I generally don't put any stress on the car. I usually don't go past 4000 rpms while driving. I don't live in the city, so I'm always driving on back roads (not sure if that makes a difference?). But the car seemed slower so that's why I starting experimenting with it. They didn't say anything about breaking the clutch in...just that it would feel different.

I don't know what dumping the clutch is so I assume I'm not doing it. I don't know what a flywheel is...would this be indicated on any of the papers they gave me if they performed such work?

 

dumping the clutch is when you rev up the motor and just take your foot off of the clutch. this is one way of taking off when racing.

the flywheel is what the clutch is mated with. they both need to have a good clean surface when you replace a clutch. it should be on your paperwork. if they didn't change or resurface the flywheel you might go back and ask them why.

http://www.clutchandflywheel.com/clu...heel_FAQs.html

6. Is flywheel resurfacing necessary before installing a new clutch?

A smooth, flat flywheel surface is essential for proper clutch operation. Flywheels are subject to heat, scoring and warping during use. If upon careful inspection there are signs of scoring, heat damage or warpage the flywheel should be resurfaced or replaced to assure good clutch performance. Resurfacing should be done on a flywheel-grinding machine only. Refer to your factory service manual or ACT information for resurfacing specifications (Flat, Step, Etc.). WARNING: IF YOUR FLYWHEEL SHOWS ANY SIGNS OF CRACKING, REPLACE IT! Never roughen the flywheel clutch surface with sanding as this reduces clutch life. The surfaces are designed to rub against each other (Producing Friction), not tear into each other (causing abrasion).

 

after re-reading what you origninally stated. I would suggest that it's a motor issue. if it was a clutch issue, then your rpm's would go up but not your speed.

if you can get it to the point where you can recreate the problem and take it to the dealer then you should do so asap.

 

Sounds like something wrong with the motor or the DBW throttle system. Definitely not a clutch issue because a worn clutch would allow your engine revs to climb freely without moving the car, similar to what you were experiencing at first.

 

i found the paperwork and they definitely replaced the flywheel along with all those other clutch-related parts.

i just hope whatever it is, it's covered in the warranty this time!

thanks for all your help!