2004 TSX A/C compressor not engaging
#1
2004 TSX A/C compressor not engaging
I know this is a popular topic on this board - I've read all the threads. My 2004 TSX (188,000 miles) has an AC problem - while driving down the road the other day, the air stopped being cold. There was no noise, no banging, no grinding, no nothing to indicate a catastrophic failure of the compressor. The fan works fine, and it is not intermittently working - the compressor just won't engage.
I've done the following:
1. Checked relays and swapped them around in under hood fuse box - no change, but I did hear and feel the one centered between the two big green ones click when I plugged it in, so I think it's fine.
2. Jumpered low refrigerant sensor - no change. I can see refrigerant in the sight glass, and there is no visible damage to the condenser or any other signs of leaks, so I don't think I have a refrigerant leak.
3. Checked for 12V going into compressor - nothing.
3. Put 12V straight to each of the 3 wires going to the compressor, trying to jumper it and make it run so I could check the sight glass with it compressing to verify refrigerant level. No luck.
I think something electrical is causing the compressor clutch to NOT engage. I just don't know what to check next. Any suggestions? Also, if I give up on this, can anyone recommend a good AC mechanic in the Salt Lake City, Utah area?
Thanks,
Allan
I've done the following:
1. Checked relays and swapped them around in under hood fuse box - no change, but I did hear and feel the one centered between the two big green ones click when I plugged it in, so I think it's fine.
2. Jumpered low refrigerant sensor - no change. I can see refrigerant in the sight glass, and there is no visible damage to the condenser or any other signs of leaks, so I don't think I have a refrigerant leak.
3. Checked for 12V going into compressor - nothing.
3. Put 12V straight to each of the 3 wires going to the compressor, trying to jumper it and make it run so I could check the sight glass with it compressing to verify refrigerant level. No luck.
I think something electrical is causing the compressor clutch to NOT engage. I just don't know what to check next. Any suggestions? Also, if I give up on this, can anyone recommend a good AC mechanic in the Salt Lake City, Utah area?
Thanks,
Allan
#2
I can't find an edit button - my post count must be too low. Anyway:
I just swapped all 3 relay around again- all are clicking on and working.
I am getting 12v to the compressor, on the big blue/red wire in the center of the plug.
I think either the clutch isn't working or the whole compressor is hosed, but I'd like to know which.
Allan
I just swapped all 3 relay around again- all are clicking on and working.
I am getting 12v to the compressor, on the big blue/red wire in the center of the plug.
I think either the clutch isn't working or the whole compressor is hosed, but I'd like to know which.
Allan
#3
Description suggests the clutch gap is excessive. This prevents clutch from engaging even though the coil is energized. A good test is to carefully rap the clutch plate (center section of the compressor drive end) and see if clutch engages and compressor runs. This would confirm excessive clutch gap.
I think there was a recent post by someone who managed to replace the entire clutch coil and plate w/ compressor in place. Find this.
You only need to pull the clutch plate (singe 6mm bolt), remove plate, and remove shim beneath clutch plate to restore gap to 20 +/- 6 mils.
good luck
I think there was a recent post by someone who managed to replace the entire clutch coil and plate w/ compressor in place. Find this.
You only need to pull the clutch plate (singe 6mm bolt), remove plate, and remove shim beneath clutch plate to restore gap to 20 +/- 6 mils.
good luck
#4
I unbolted the compressor (system still charged) and removed the clutch plate. When I remove the shim and put the plate back on, it rubs the compressor pulley pretty hard, but I'm going to try it that way anyway.
I didn't open the system (yet). Should I be able to turn the compressor by hand with the system still charged? I can turn the pulley about a 1/2 turn either way before it gets hard to spin.
I'm getting 12V to the clutch/coil, but it wasn't engaging, so I'm assuming the clutch is the problem, but I'd sure like to know the compressor is good before continuing - it wouldn't be hard at this point to remove and replace it.
Thanks,
Allan
I didn't open the system (yet). Should I be able to turn the compressor by hand with the system still charged? I can turn the pulley about a 1/2 turn either way before it gets hard to spin.
I'm getting 12V to the clutch/coil, but it wasn't engaging, so I'm assuming the clutch is the problem, but I'd sure like to know the compressor is good before continuing - it wouldn't be hard at this point to remove and replace it.
Thanks,
Allan
#5
Center clutch plate should turn by hand w/ slight resistance that you can turn through by hand. If you can't rotate, then something is binding, piston or debris?
Note clutch gap tolerance. Sometimes the removed shim is too large and a thinner shim must be installed. Was gap excessive before removing shim?
good luck
Note clutch gap tolerance. Sometimes the removed shim is too large and a thinner shim must be installed. Was gap excessive before removing shim?
good luck
#6
Intermediate
I unbolted the compressor (system still charged) and removed the clutch plate. When I remove the shim and put the plate back on, it rubs the compressor pulley pretty hard, but I'm going to try it that way anyway.
I didn't open the system (yet). Should I be able to turn the compressor by hand with the system still charged? I can turn the pulley about a 1/2 turn either way before it gets hard to spin.
I'm getting 12V to the clutch/coil, but it wasn't engaging, so I'm assuming the clutch is the problem, but I'd sure like to know the compressor is good before continuing - it wouldn't be hard at this point to remove and replace it.
Thanks,
Allan
I didn't open the system (yet). Should I be able to turn the compressor by hand with the system still charged? I can turn the pulley about a 1/2 turn either way before it gets hard to spin.
I'm getting 12V to the clutch/coil, but it wasn't engaging, so I'm assuming the clutch is the problem, but I'd sure like to know the compressor is good before continuing - it wouldn't be hard at this point to remove and replace it.
Thanks,
Allan
What was the outcome with your car Allan?
#7
Sorry I didn't update this sooner.
In July of 2012, I replaced my compressor, filter/dryer, and expansion valve with parts from DiscountACParts.com.
It worked for just under two years and 50,000 miles, but last week my AC compressor seized up. I'm looking to replace it with something better, but I don't know what. I'm thinking about a factory part because I got 188,000 out of the original Acura AC compressor, but I know they're flaky too.
Car has 236,000 miles right now. I am having a hard time finding reports on particular brands of AC compressors, new or rebuilt.
In July of 2012, I replaced my compressor, filter/dryer, and expansion valve with parts from DiscountACParts.com.
It worked for just under two years and 50,000 miles, but last week my AC compressor seized up. I'm looking to replace it with something better, but I don't know what. I'm thinking about a factory part because I got 188,000 out of the original Acura AC compressor, but I know they're flaky too.
Car has 236,000 miles right now. I am having a hard time finding reports on particular brands of AC compressors, new or rebuilt.
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#8
A used compressor from a later model TSX (2004 seems to have had problems) would be lowest cost and should provide reliable service, if the system is flushed/cleaned thoroughly before recharging. New receiver/drier, new condensor are usually required for seized compressors.
If extensive debris (open receiver/drier to inspect), then a new evaporator should be considered.
good luck
If extensive debris (open receiver/drier to inspect), then a new evaporator should be considered.
good luck
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